RTO Alternator/Battery Tester - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

with hands

You might drive it to a parts store. Most of them test batteries and alternators for no charge. CALL THEM AND ASK. The electrical system requires a good battery for the alternator to function properly. an old vehicle may have wiring problems as well. HERE IS A LINK TO A DELTA AUTO SERVICE IN VEGAS. you did not say where you were located. Alternators

you need to run a multi meter on your alternator to see if its providing a charge to the battery.your manual will have the specs for the voltage that the alternator should provide.

the alternator is charging if it has an internal regulator then replace it ( most are part of the brush set) if external regulator replace it ( separate unit) take it to an accredited auto electrician for testing and repairs.

the ecm needs a constant voltage to operate correctly if you are getting an alternator fault code then fix the alternator.

not connected properly faulty rectifier bank ( incorrect fitting procedure blew rectifiers) faulty regulator loose drive belt or incorrect belt for the new pulley.

have the alternator bench rested as it is not charging correctly check drive belt condition and tension the problem is that everything is getting power from the battery without any charge going back in.

I would be checking the max out put allowed by the regulator If the regulator is faulty then there will be uncontrolled current being produced and that will over heat the alternator check for circuit requirements to see if there is a unit drawing more current than it should ( shorting)

If the mounts are the same and the plug ends are the same as well then should be good to go!

May need to unbolt other accessories to remove

The alternator is not supposed to fire? do you mean you have not spark or the alternator is not producing power?

Check the following: cable terminals for tightness, alternator output with the engine running ~14.2V, battery voltage with the engine stopped,~12.7. Also check for good ground connection of the battery and engine block.

You've disconnected the serpentine belt? It SHOULD come out now - you've done everything necessary. You may have to pry it out with a large screwdriver or a small pry bar. It may be challenging getting the new one in, but with the old one out you may be able to spot something else that needed to be adjusted a little for a better fit. Oh, wait. On SOME Delco alternators, there's a third bolt on the rear of the case where a brace can be bolted to it. Check that.

It depends how fast you work and the number of coffee breaks involved.

Possibly as if the voltage is low, the ECU might put more fuel in the engine to spin it quicker to raise the voltage. Have it checked out

There is also a voltage regulator. old cars have mechanical, but for more than 20 years they are electronic. Test the whole charging circuit, the dynamo, AC or DC. if it is a modern AC, test the rectifiers and voltage regulator.

The voltage regulator, or the AC machine or the rectifiers. Looks the battery is not charged while the engine is running.

Watch this video. Your car will be very similar. Not hard to do at all. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dTwRaoVj8Uw

Front of the engine under the power steering pump

Yeah. its one of those snap-on nasty nylon jobs. there's a tool for that. Don't use a pair of big pliers and that humungous flathead screwdriver. The nylon may be too old and brittle. auto parts stores sell them. omes with age.