Top 20 Bosch SHU5316UC Dishwasher Questions & Answers

indicates that the heating element in the unit is non operational ( not connected or burnt out )

Test the water inlet electro valves.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I'd say the issue actually with the control...unfortunately. The "1" being displayed is actually an error code associated with a heating fault.

**B/S/H/ issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the model & serial number, you can check with yours but...you'll need the serial number too. Here`s the link if you want to see for yourself **

http://microsites.boschappliances.com/safetyrecall/dishwasher/

As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).

If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.

It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.



The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,



**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**

This ones new, but it's where to look...



...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...or takes a long time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning as a result.

You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.

i.e.

**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**

If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.

Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.
Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi -

I order all Bosch parts direct from Bosch. You wont get them much cheaper anywhere else. If the model number above is correct, the part number is 359976. This is the whole upper spray arm assembly which clips onto the upper basket. The arm and retaining nut are not sold separately.


(0614 is the position number in the parts list, not the part number)

http://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop/bosch/us/prodls.htm?Matnr=000000000000359976&ESHOPTYPE=A

$21.60 + shipping (in stock)

The link is for the Bosch USA eShop. If you are somewhere else, please let me know your location and I'll provide a different link. If you have a different from the one listed above, I can verify the part number for you, but this fits most Siemens/Bosch dishwashers, so it's likely to be the correct part..

Hope this helps.

Regards,
BElectric

Sound like water got on to the motor, probably ready for a new dishwasher. Sorry

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I'd say the issue actually is with the control...unfortunately. This is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). These are the steps you'll need to follow to resolve it or at least investigate.

If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.

It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.



The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,



**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**

hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...this can also manifest as a long cycle time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning, no heating ( don't be fooled by the homes inlet hot water temperature ) as a result.

You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.

i.e. ( this may differ from your specific model, but the same rules apply )


**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last. Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on their behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)

**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**

If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.

Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello, Welcome to FixYa. On Bosch dishwashers with display such as yours the 2H indicates the cycle wash time is exceeding two hours and it should not. This is typical of a heating error so the cause must be determined. The question must be asked, is it a heater, a flow switch, an NTC or the actual control ? I can also tell you most times it is the control. I am presently on my iphone and as such don't have access to my files but if you check out my profile under dishwashers you will find a detailed explaination of how the check. Look specifically for units that show "1" and run & run. You will also find a link to the Bosch website on info regarding a recall which relates directly to your model and said issue. Otherwise I will post more info for you in the AM . Regards, Macmarkus :)

P stands for program in computer algorthms. The device displays program whenver chages were made to the default settings. A powered on devices least has malfunction only requires reseting to attaon default features. Depending on the type of device, reset would be a button that is pressed held for an extensive duration to clear the entire corrupted data to make way for default. Refer to the device user guide also for further asssistance.

Hi, possible block drain or pump. Needs to be serviced.

Hi,

There is a simple test you can do. Turn the power on and open the dishwasher door. In the bottom of the washing compartment near the centre you will see a dome/mushroom shaped plastic object (the float). Lift the float as high as it will go (about 1-2 inches) and, keeping it lifted, see if the pump starts.

If nothing happens, then it's likely that you need a new waste pump. If you can hear a faint humming, but the water doesn't pump out, then your pump impeller may be jammed or the impeller may have come off the drive shaft.

Try this test, post back with the results and I'll try to assist further . . .

Hello, Welcome to FixYa. Based on your description " diswaher is stuck on drain. will not reset. power has been disconnected. will not reset " it sounds like the emergency overfill switch has been actuated. Here`s what to do and what to look for. **Turn off the breaker/power at your homes service panel...safety first of course** Remove the the bottom panel, referred to as a toe panel or kick-plate, essentially the lower service panel shown here... When you remove the outer toe panel, (typically black in color, though sometimes white depending on the model, customization etc.) there will be another small "L" shaped panel which is non finished steel, I find removing that allows much easier access as well. This panel can be somewhat more difficult as it secures the plastic channeling for the wires but if you observe closely you`ll see it does "snap" out of place...carefully. Once the panel has been removed check for any obvious signs of water in the base ( the unit has a plastic overfill basin with a float which will actuate an emergency overfill cycle, hence the drain pump runs & runs ) If you don`t see any water in this area, direct your attention to the left in this basin/bottom ( from the front to be sure ) and you should see a device which will resemble a "stir stick" you`d use for coffee etc. it will be a red in color stick. With the aid of a wooden spoon, long screwdriver, or if you can manage to reach by hand, lift it up and down gently and listen for a "click". If there is no sign of water and you can here the "click" when lifting up and down the float actuater ( red stick ) then turn the machine back on and give it a try before reassembling the toe panel so you can observe for any possible leaks. Let me know what you find. This is the most likely cause of the symptom you are describing so we can move forward if this doesn`t resolve the issue. Thanks for choosing FixYa. Good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :)

Hello Dave,

Welcome to FixYa.

Try this test I posted below and let me know what error you find...if any.

To begin the test program, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO wash program buttons at the same time

as you turn the unit on by pressing the ON/OFF button. Initially, the control unit version number will appear in the display

(e.g./ 20 = version 20, 21 = version 21, etc.).

When the wash program buttons are released, the LED's above them will begin flashing. To end the test program or test cycle, press the ON/OFF button.

To check the wash program LED, press its corresponding button.

To check the Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent LED and REGULAR WASH button LED, press the REGULAR WASH button (press the DELAY START button to test the

Cycle Countdown display alone).

The Cycle Countdown display should show "88" when the DELAY START button is pressed and "8h" when the REGULAR WASH button is pressed.

To start the test cycle, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time.

When the test cycle has completed, the Cycle Countdown display will indicate a fault using the codes below. If a combination of faults exists, the code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ 6 = faults 2 + 4).

0 = No faults

1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault

2 = Heating fault

4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

email me at [email protected] and I can send you via a "pdf" of the diagnostic/repair manual for your specific Bosch...provided it is indeed a SHU5316 unit.

I`ll watch for your reply. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Check whether you can adjust the machine legs. Removing the top, it depends on the design.
If removable moulded or laminate top is provided :
Watch for the fixing screws at the back of the machine. If screws are there remove them. Slide the top forward or backward and remove.

Hi, I have an older dishwasher also and recently my wife alsocomplained about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I am tried invain to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installed them inminutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also found that if theheating element goes bad then that also can mess things up bad... So I wouldbuy new spray arms, and also check out the heating element to make sure it isworking... Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...
Dishwasher Spray Arms not Spinning

How to Buy Appliance Parts Online

A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers...

Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working

Dishwasher Maintenance

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "explanation very clear. will give it a go and see howsimple it was. thanks Ronnie " - ronnieshomes

Hi,

The jumper plug must be there if it was on the old one. Also it is very important what kind of detergent did you use. Such dishwashers do not work with any kind of liquid or jell detergents and you have to use a rinse aid. Water enters the dishwasher via an electronic valve, also there is also a filter where the hose enters the valve, but as you have already disconnected the pipe connected to it you would have seen any obstruction. The valves are pretty cheap and pretty easy to replace, it usually consists of removing the lid and disconnecting a couple of wires with spade clips on them, undoing a couple of screws to remove the valve, then just replacing it and reconnecting the wires.

Do get back to us for any further query and do not forget to accept it.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you with your dishwasher not draining problem...

Dishwasher Problems - Water will not drain out

heatman101

hold down scrub wash and the delicare or the 2nd one past scrub wash, for 3 seconds.

There's a few things you can look into that won't cost you any money.

First, manually remove as much water as possible and then check the sump area for paper or any other large object clogging the drain. A cup or so of water in the sump area of your dishwasher is normal and it is there to prevent the seals from drying out. The dishwasher will pump this old water out before beginning to wash.

Make sure the door is properly latched as the pump will not drain if the door is not latched properly.

Check the belt, drain line, air gap, drain valve and solenoid assembly, the motor, and the pump. If your dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump, and it has broken or come off the pulley, replace it.



If you have recently installed a garbage disposer in your home, make sure that the drain plug on the disposer has been removed. It's just a little plastic piece that blocks the hole where you hook the dishwasher drain hose. If your dishwasher drains through the garbage disposer, you need to run the garbage disposer before you run the dishwasher to make sure that the drain is clear.

There is a drain hose between the drain valve or pump and the garbage disposal or drain line. If an obstruction has blocked this, then your dishwasher won't drain. The drain hose is connected by clamps to the drain valve and the disposer or drain pipe. Remove it and visually inspect it for a clog or a kink. Try to remove any debris. If it is in good condition, just put it back on, and if not, purchase a new one to install.

If you don't have an air gap in the drain line, at least use a high drain loop. Making a large loop about 18" off the ground with the drain line can prevent any back flow into the dishwasher from the sink.

If you have one, the air gap will be located on top of the sink. The air gap is there to prevent any siphoning of standing water from the sink. When your dishwasher drains, the air gap diaphragm will form a seal and allow the water to drain properly. If the diaphragm in the air gap is faulty, it’s possible that water can leak onto the cabinet and into the sink area. When this happens, then the air gap must be replaced.

Like the inlet valve, there is also a drain valve on most models. When no power goes to the drain valve it remains closed and prevents water from leaving the machine. When the valve receives power during the drain cycle, the solenoid opens and allows the water to leave the machine. If your drain hose is attached directly to the pump, you don't have a drain valve. The motor simply reverses and the pump sends the water in the opposite direction, which is out of the machine.

If the motor doesn’t turn or work properly, the dishwasher may not drain. Make sure you have power to the unit. If you notice that the motor hums but won't turn, it could be seized, and you probably need to replace it.

if you need to buy any parts, I have had alot of help from http://www.apwagner.com
Small objects can sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this occurs, you’ll need to open the pump and remove any debris buildup. The dishwasher pump is usually mounted directly to the motor and runs off the motor as well. The pump is also attached to the bottom of your dishwasher and pushes the water from the dishwasher.

make sure 120 degree water enters the diswasher