Makita & 1/2 Inch Drill - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If your drill squeaks, it's most likely one or both of the armature bearings are failing. If you run it too long after they fail, you'll also melt the case arount the bearing and have to replace the housing along with the bearings. You didn't specify which model you are using to mix mud but If you are using the Makita drill pictured with this query, you are over powering it. You should be using a spade handle drill for mixing mud. It has a gear reduction and more powerful motor to handle the torque needed to mix mud.

REMOVE SCREWS IN DRILL WHOLE UNIT OR JUST HANDLE WILL SPLIT IN HALF INSIDE YOU WILL SEE YOUR WIRES PLUGED IN OR SCREWED IN . PUSH ON STKONS MYBE ON WIRE ENDS IF YOU CAN REPLACE THEM GREAT.IF NOT JUST STRIP BACK WIRES AN WRAPE AROUND SCREWS AN SCREW IN TITE REPLACING WIRES GREEN TO GREEN RED TO RED BLACK TO BLACK & WHITE TO WHITE SCREW UNIT BACK TOGETHER AN DRILL

sounds like you fixed the plug or cord and reversed the wiring or you just have it in reverse its a switch on it ha ha

that would be impossible without the machines to do that. It would be cheaper to buy a new armature or a new drill. Let me know the model and brand and I will try and find a part number and price for you.

unless you have specialized machinery you cannot rewind the armature. If it is open or shorted it would need to be replaced.

did you also cut the mica between the comm bars? If yes and still arcing I would take a reading across all the bars with a VOM or better a growler and I think that you might have one that is bad. I guess that you also replaced the brushes and they are not sticking. Also check the field for resistance across both sides and they should be about the same, any major variance would indicate the field is bad. Let me know if you need more assistance.

Open the chuck up fully, and in the bottom there is a reverse threaded lock screw that needs to be removed. (drill it out if you have to, it can be really hard to retrieve). Insert an allen key into the jaws of the chuck and hit the handle with a hammer to turn the hole chuck anti clockwise, firmly and quickly. Replacement is reverse but not so dramatic. Sometimes the chuck is damaged in such a way that it will not grip an (large) allen key sufficiently. You can then peel of all plastic parts of the chuck to expose the core. From here you can weld a metal pice to the chuck in place of an allen key. Take care not to damage the threaded axle from the gear.

good luck

The Mfg. website will have a list of authorized service centers and manuals & parts lists if you choose to replace it yourself. Use a digital camera and take photos as you take it apart.

Take digital pictures as you go. Get a parts list if you can as well.
There are some electronics cleaners special for sensitive electronics and motors.
Compressed dry air may help as well.
Most drills housings will require a long round shank tool. These tools are in the forms of philips or torx some even security torx depending on the Mfg.

If your Makita matches the one on the picture, you will need a chuck key to attach a drill bit or tool to the machine's chuck. The chuck key inserts to any of the small holes in the front part of the chuck and at the same time its teeth interlocks with the teeth of the chuck. When turning the chuck key you will widen or loosen the grip of the three jaw pieces, that clamps to your tool or bit. Tighten the chuck key by hand until the chuck grips the bit securely. For safety, unplug the power cord whenever operating the chuck key on the chuck.

For the pictured drill motor, you put the bit in and use a "chuck key" to tighten the chuck onto the bit...

If the photo is not your machine but you have an SDS type chuck, you insert the bit, pull back on a collar and twist the bit until you feel it engage and release the collar. When seated properly you cannot pull the bit out without pulling back on the collar.

Look at eReplacementParts.com and the parts diagrams

Sometimes if you happen to have the right size bit, it will stick into the bolt that holds the chuck on if the chuck wasn't tight enought to keep it from slipping further into the chuck. Clamp drill bit in vice and tap chuck with soft hammer to pull it free.

if its a reversible drill there will be a screw in the bottom of the chuck, open the jaws as far as they will go and you should see a screw head, it is a left hand thread so put the drill in low speed selector this will stop chuck turning as easily, then turn screw clockwise as your looking at the chuck, when its out put an allen key in and tighten up the chuck hit with hammer now in a anti clockwise direction it should unscrew. repeat in the reverse procedure to fit new chuck....

Go to www.makita.ca, search for 6302 and you will get results with manual and part list. Hope it helps. Juraj

Do you leave them plugged into the mains all the time? Voltage spike possibly. They can be repaired, but you need the model number in the search query. https://www.google.com/search?q=Makita+charger+repair ..

The Makita DC18RC charger is equipped with a diode labeled D14 that helps regulate the voltage. It is a 1N4007 diode, which is a 1-Amp, 1000-Volt diode. You can find the electrical schematic for the DC18RC charger online with a quick search.

Send it for warranty repair. They are supposed to be tough. https://www.google.com/search?q=Makita+DGD800+18v+die-grinder ..

I don't really know how a chuck works. I use them often on a drill press, cordless drills, etc. My grandfather always said to "check the simple things first." Could something have gotten in the way like saw dust, dirt.....? ? I might suggest trying using compressed air and blow it out? You can buy a can of compressed air at office depot.

There are no serviceable parts in this charger, it is a replacement item