20 Most Recent Dewalt 18v Nano Cordless Impact Driver Drill Dc827 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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Unplug it for 30 sec, replug see if it clears, if not, charger is bad.

Check the battery contacts on the drill for broken wire or bent tab. Make sure all the battery contact areas for the battery and drill are clean. If the terminals are dirty they will burn a hole in the contacts.

Roy, On the front of your charger, you have a menu of what the flashing lights mean. As you get used to seeing the light flashing, you will be able to tell when it is flashing faster or slower. If what you are seeing right now is a slow flash of maybe a flash every second or so, that is normal for letting you know that the battery is in the charging mode and it is charging normally. When it starts flashing faster than that, you maybe experiencing a battery problem. Hope this helps!

you write it down b4 you get it stolen,or register it,b4 you use it

I would say that this is a bad idea. A tool charger is designed specifically for the battery, and kluging it like that is a good way to fry something.

Sounds like a bad switch or a loose wire. You will have to take it apart, you might get lucky and it's just a loose connection, other wise order a new switch

If the battery is good, and you feel the brushes are good, then the problem is either the motor or wiring. Either way, you will need a repair service to fix it. Here is how to find a service center near you: http://www.dewalt.com/find-service-center.aspx

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Dewalt DCB105 li-ion XR Battery Charger 10.8V - 20V For Battery Type: Ni-Cd Ni-MH Input Voltage: 110V-240V Smart Charger for Dewalt 10.8V ~ 20V Li-ion Battery For Brand: DEWALT Color: Black Brand New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaginghttp://www.drillbattery.com.au/charger/dewalt-DCB105-charger.html

Contact DeWalt at: http://www.dewalt.com/parts-and-service.aspx

Please see the link below to locate your closest Factory Service Centers. The technician will be able to better assist you with repairs. DEWALT com

It could be a couple things: 1) you have a bad clutch #112 on the diagram 2) you have stripped out the armature gear (you would hear grinding if this was the problem) Using a screwdriver, pry off the rubber cap on the end of the nose and then slide the collar off. Again using a screwdriver remove the snap ring at the end of the nose and disassemble the bit lock. Next using a small screwdriver, pry off the cover on the selector knob & remove the screw underneath - remove the selector knob. Finally, remove the 4 screws holding the gearcase to the motor and slide the gearcase cover straight off. You should now be able to see the condition of the gears - if they do not appear to be stripped your problem will be the clutch gear. Note: when reassembling, be sure to line up the selector knob pin with the carrier inside. Detail

Try checking the battery contacts for corrosion. Make sure they are bare metal. Mare sure the batteries were put back in in the correct alignment. You should be able to use a continuity meter to confirm that the switch is working properly. If the batteries leaked onto any of the circuit boards and the checks don't solve it, you're probably best to send it off for servicing. Good Luck!

Open the jaws and look inside. You'll see a fastener. Some have Phillips head or an allen wrench. Use the proper tool to turn the fastener counter clockwise to remove the fastener. You may have to help the chuck off the spindle if it sticks.

Make sure the speed selector lever on the top of the tool is all the way in gear, and the dial selector on the tool is in drill or hammer drill mode. If in screw mode make sure it's set to a level that it won't "clutch" out.

Depends what you want to lubricate. If you want to lubricate the drill bit to move front and back a WD40 is ok and grease is better too.

I can help you if you can be more specific.you can find a brake down on the site.www.ereplacementparts.com