20 Most Recent Makita 2703 10" Table Saw, Electric Brake - Page 5 Questions & Answers

check the switch 651923-1 SWITCH, LS1040 behind the 415999-0 SWITCH LEVER, LS1040. If you don't have the parts list, here's a link: https://cdn.makitatools.com/apps/cms/doc/prod/LS1/920e0c9d-cebc-452a-a06b-39ff7a832dc8_LS1040_PB.pdf

I can't find this saw at Makita; so, generally. Follow all safety precautions. :-) If the saw is running rough, the first thing I'd check is the brushes for the motor, especially if it has any age. These are fairly inexpensive and will solve a lot of woes. The next thing would be to check the thumb switch, if it has one. This is the switch that allows you to pull the trigger to run the saw, if it's just a button, then check the actual trigger switch to make sure it's working properly as it probably, not always, also engages the brushes to reverse the motor for a second, to slow it down so it stops faster. So, check the brushes on the motor, if they show any signs of wear, it's probably them. 2nd, check the switch. Please let me know and if I've helped, give me a vote up. Thanks.

If you're talking about the lock that holds it in the lowered postion for moving or transporting the unit, it requires a slight downward pressure before the pin will move. Press down, and then pull the pin. If this isn't lock you're talking about, please provide more details; also, if this is the lock, and it still won't move, it could have gotten bent. If new, contact the manufacturer, if not new, then you might just have to apply more pressure to move it from the detent position.

http://makita-direct.com/parts/dpc7300-.pdf

the spacers are used to make the hole in the blade fit snugly on the shaft replace the blade in the same way that it was taken off all you have to do is mount the blade with the arrow facing the direction of rotation

https://www.matbase.com/material-categories/composites/polymer-matrix-composites-pmc/reinforced-polymers/material-properties-of-polamide-6-30-percent-glass-fiber-reinforced-pa-6-gf30.html PA GF30 is the base material of the housing set of the machine not the model number made a google search for " makita saw " on pictures the chance is that you find your model .

push the collet retainer hard up on the shaft and the broken bit will fall out

This might not be the correct answer but it could be that you are working the saw hard and drawing a lot of current from the battery. Make sure your blade is sharp and correct for what you are doing. (Lots of teeth cross cutting, fewer teeth for ripping) and adjust your feed rate. See if that makes a difference.

The pillow block bearing, guide bushings, or even the slide lock mechanism could be the culprit. If you post the model number I can help narrow it down for you.

You can still find inline switch for cords, but make sure they can handle the amperage. A 15A rating should be fine. Don't use a lamp-cord switch, because they are usually rated for much lower current. Some people go to the trouble of mounting an electrical junction box on their machine and routing the cord through it with a light switch. Once again, the light switch must have a higher current rating of 10 or 15 amps, depending on the current-draw of your machine.

Thats a material code of Polyamide many products are based on this PA6-GF30 code. like to see here for example Polyamide PA6 GF30 Jacob moeren metrisch WKK Nederland Search on the pictures in Google for the right saw model

It seems as though the original blade was fitted without a spacer. These usually come with any new blade. It is simply a washer (usually aluminium) that fits in the hole of the saw blade and reduces the hole diameter down to the size of the flange on your saw. This is common practice. Never try and centre a blade without the correct size hole to flange size. Very dangerous. These washes are really cheap and can be obtained from most hardware stores. Usually in an assortment of different outside and inside diameters to suit any circumstance. Hope this helps, cheers Bob.

Dismantle the unit, taking photographs as you go and verify that the switch is actually broken (electrically or mechanically). Gain the make and model number of the switch and purchase a new one. Online is probably cheaper. Refitting is the reversal of the dismantle. Cheers Bob

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