Get someone to hold onto the recoil and spin the spring back in until desired tightness. You'll have to remove the clip on the centre post before you have to recoil the spring. Take your time so you only have to do it once. good luck
If the shaft is turning, then you have likely hit the nail on the head. But, make sure that the safety brake isn't on. If you are able to open the throttle, and engine doesn't sound like it is bogging down, then your clutch is likely at issue. But, if it does sound like it is bogging down (heavily), then the brake may still be on as well (perhaps bent / broken shaft from grip guard on top).
A place I often use for ordering obscure parts is at www.jackssmallengines.com
They may be able to provide (fax email?) a diagram to help you identify part numbers of what you need.
Check your clutch for heat damage, as well as signs of contamination. The heat damage will show up as extreme bluing of the drum assembly, and perhaps the springs. There may be a glaze on the pads. If contaminated, there will likely be a black glazing on the drum and pads.
50:1 is the correct fuel to oil ratio. Be sure to use a modern synthetic oil made for chain saws, and premix the fuel and oil in it's own can-- shake the can thoroughly just before filling the saw each time. With the very lean fuel to oil ratios used today, it is important to keep the oil in suspension to prevent engine damage. Hope this helps!
Homelite is known for this issue with there newer chain saws. The problem is with the carb, it needs to be adjusted, basically it is running to rich and needs to be turned down on the high idle side. You will have to do this throughout the life of the chain saw
When the saw shuts itself off, remove the spark plug and check for blue, snappy spark with a fresh/clean plug set at 0.020" gap. If nothing, remove the flywheel cover to expose the wheel and ignition module. Remove the ignition switch wire and try for spark, if still nothing, check the pole gap at the module with a thin business card. Bring the flywheel magnets under the module poles, insert the card into the existing gap, loosen the mounting screws to allow the module to contact the module poles, then tighten the screws. Rotate the wheel somewhat to remove the card, and try for spark again. If still nothing, replace the module and install as above. Don't forget the ignition switch wire. If the first test gave good spark, put some fuel mix into the plug hole and try for start--it should pop several times. If ok, release the fuel cap for a moment and see if restart can be done. If it does, then clean the vent area on the tank side (a small bronze plate in the tank case). Check the fuel filter, air filter, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Does the primer pump pull fresh fuel into itself when pumped several times? If not, remove the carburetor and clean it inside and out with spray carburetor cleaner. Check the lower chamber diaphragm for flexibility with no holes or cracks. Hope some of this gets you running!
check your fuel lines for cracks carb screen (if it has one) or jets might be clogged , also, I have a husk 350, fired only
with gas in the carb, would not run at all just start and off. would
not fire at all without doing that. the head
bolts were little lose. I tightened them down put it back together, and
that was the problem.
Try this, if no spark replace the spark plug first(<$5) and retry.
It checks every part of the ignition system. Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode. Ignition module gap Place a business or index card between the fly wheel and coil, rotate until the magnetic attraction pulls everything tight together. Tighten the coil screws, rotate the flywheel until the attraction eases and remove the card. Ensure nothing contacts when the flywheel is rotated. Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier) https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
Ignition module gap Place a business or index card between the fly wheel and coil, rotate until the magnetic attraction pulls everything tight together. Tighten the coil screws, rotate the flywheel until the attraction eases and remove the card. Ensure nothing contacts when flywheel is rotated.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
Does the pumper bulb fill with fuel when pumped? I had a similar problem with a Homelite--which turned out to be the location of the carburetor lower-chamber gasket. The diaphragm needs to go to the carburetor body (pin inward), then the gasket and cover plate. Go to: www.drystacked.com for a 12 page PDF document on Walbro carburetor theory, troubleshooting, and repair. Hope this helps!
I would start with both the "H" and "L" needle valves at 1.5 turns CCW from lightly seated then adjust for performance as follows: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Your fuel line may be pinched off where is routes to the carb. Check and make sure that the vent in the fuel cap is clear so you are getting air in the tank
Spark to the plug? Second line to body of saw is the vacuum from the lower 1/2 of cylinder
Afternoon Joan; An IPL (exploded parts list) for yor saw can be found here: Homelite/Ryobi.com https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use don't match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches. These are harder to use than most , blame the blue boxes. Please complain a little to Homelite. HTH Lou
