Poulan Pro " Pro" Self Propelled Mower - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

More than likely it is the carburetor. There can be a restriction at the seat, the seat is rubber and may have swollen from the fuel, over time. If you remove the carb, use care and look the intake manifold gasket over. If it is torn or cracked, replace it. Vacuum leaks from the intake gasket will make the engine run rough and uneven. The carb may need to be dismantled and cleaned. A jewelry sonic cleaner with some detergent (Like Simple Green or Purple Magic) and water, works great. A new carb is $25. or less. Any questions please write back. Good Luck.

Start by checking the fuel lines, are they broken or leaking. If they are good and fuel filter is good, carburetor may be clogged.

Get smaller wheels or see if you can make other adjustment locations that will lower the wheels even more than originally.

Sounds like a common fuel problem you need to remove carb & fuel tank and unless you can get a compressor they need a good blast out you may even take carb apart & check diaghram they have very small jets in fact most lawnmower shops have a sonic bath for this

You can get a replacement rope and handle at a home improvement center for a few dollars. Getting the mower apart may be problematic. Some mowers pop rivet the cover onto the mower, while others use screws or bolts. Just trying to put the handle back on a weather beaten pull rope will only break off after the first pull.

I too have a bad back but find standing down my inspection pit helps cut bending a lot and improves visibility. The equivalent of standing down a pit is a raised bench that can be made from two common folding benches and planks, packing cases or trestles and every mower owner should have one and either a strong wife or an obliging neighbour to help lift the mower. With the facility of a bench the mower would last longer because maintenance, being easier to perform, would be more thorough. Most mowers can be turned onto the side one way or the other to improve access. One way oil tends to run out of the crankcase breather but the other way is usually quite safe and clean. If the fuel tank doesn't have a closable breather it can easily be drained or removed. Good luck!

im betting the safety handle is not down far enough and is allowing blade brake to drag , also it's holding out ign ckt from working as well , those cables stretch all the time

plain

Running rich to much fuel
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Remove spark plug, clean and dry. Replace plug. Remove air filter. Spray WD-40 into carb opening; one second blast. Turn over engine, (pull handle). Engine should start briefly and run for 3 seconds.  If not, you are not getting spark to spark plug. If engine starts, you have a dirty carb and you can buy a rebuild kit from manufacture.

Have the battery load checked at a local auto store. If its good, then check the voltage at the starter when the key is turned to the start position. It should be twelve volts DC. If you have no voltage there at the starter that you may have a bad key switch. Check all the safety switches before making a ruling on a bad switch.

go to u tube and it will show u but not everyone can do it

Remove the motor shroud encasing the pull cord assy. What I do is turn the shroud over, leave the spring in it's slack position and gather up the two broken pieces of string. I lay then down in a circular motion on top of the recoil spool until the string is all coiled up, counting each loop made. That and once more is how many times you'll need to wind that spool up. When you are done winding, "round up" to make the hole in the spool meet up with the hole in the recoil housing. Once you're there, get a medium sized flat-head screwdriver and wedge it between the spool and the housing, hindering the spool from unwinding. Wedge it good. Melt the end of the new pull cord and begin outside the housing and feed the string thru the eyelet on the recoil housing. Keep feeding it ( recoil housing still upside down ) thru until you visibly see it pass thru the eyelet and into the hole of the spool. You may need to use a small pick to grab it and pull it home. Once it's out, it's not over. Pull enough string thru to tie a double-loop knot. When you're satisfied with the strength of the knot, reach down and grab the string, holding it tightly. Next reach in and pull the screwdriver loose. Nothing should move-you're holding the string. Hold the shroud with one hand and let the string slowly pay into the recoil spool. Bolt the shroud back on and go!

Try 'break free' or any kind of penetrating spray around the throttle. Give it 15 min to soak in and try it again. Make sure you are pushing/tapping on the moving part and not the stationary piece. Should be another linage from there to the actual carb. Check that it is free and moving easily. Cable problems usually are inside the cabel,rust etc that binds the cable but you should be able to move the actuator w/a pliers with the cable unattached. Good luck

Hi christo55297Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible. Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel. Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT. Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it. Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement. Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly. If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc. When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.Please take time to rate me Bud

from what I see they are about $400.00 USD If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kelly_69a0cf1b13789df1

too much oil too little oil.............check the blade some thing maybe raped around it

on the dip stick there is little xxxxx marks the oil level should be in that ares

a bad belt or a bad idler pulley

THE MOWER MIGHT BE OUT OF TIME. REPLACE THE BLADE. CHECK THE WOODRUFF KEY INBETWEEN THE PROPELLAR SHAFT. IF ITS BENT REPLACE IT. ALSO CHECK THE TOP END OF THE PROP SHAFT FOR ANY MISS ALIGNMENT. IT SOUNDS LIKE THE ROCK IMPACT MADE SOMETHING LOOSE IN THERE>