20 Most Recent Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton Intek V - Twin Vertical Ohv Engine with Electric Start 22 Hp, 1" X 3 5/32" Shaft, ModelNo. 44K777 - 0027 - E1 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You could check for continuity with an ohm meter, but I don't know what the resistance of a good coil is. BTW. coils almost never go bad.

recharge the battery pull the plug and see if there is any oil in the cylinder fix the oil leaks OR get a new motor 20 hp from e-bay for a good price that just bolts straight in that way you will have a trouble free mower for the price of a new engine remember you got it free and that means that is is not a good proposition to repair

Sounz like the fuel line / filter is partially clogged.

I am assuming you are calling the cylinder the jug on the engine. If you think the engine is leaking oil from the cylinder you have to replace the crankcase. The cylinder does not separate form the crankcase as they do on atvs. If you see the leak at a gasket, it could be a blown head gasket, valve cover gasket or a sump gasket. The sump gasket is the gasket between the crankcase and the sump. The sump is the part of the engine the mounting screws thread into. The valve cover gasket is between the head and the stamped steel cover. Replacing the valve cover gasket is easy. Just remove the four bolts to remove the cover. Then clean the old gasket off. You can apply a thin layer of rtv to help seal the valve cover. The head gasket is between the cylinder and the head of the engine. If this gasket fails, the engine can burn oil and/or leak oil. The head gasket is more involved to replace. You need a set of feeler gauges and a toque wrench to do the repair

Show pic's.

It is not internal to the engine unless that run-away condition is why you initially had to replace the governor gear. Did you get all the springs/rods/throttle cable back where they go ? That's the first thing I would check. I wouldn't tear into the engine for the dots. It's not timing. They go together as you said. It wouldn't have cranked if they were off. Make the adjustment back to where you started before the run away problem and see if it changes.

sounds like throttle cable come off

PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) takes oil mist from cylinder blowby in the lower crankcase and sends it back into the intake manifold, near the carburetor, to be burned.

I am assuming that your engine is close to a model 31C7070230E1. There are multiple 31C707 engine series engines:
31C707-0101-B1, -0154-B1 -0154-E1, -0175-E1, -0230-B1, -0230-B2, -0230-E1, -0230-E2, -0240-B1, -0240-E1, -0240-E2, -0431-B1, -0431-E1, -0506-B2, -0571-B1, -0603-B1, -0603-B2, -0603-E1, -0603-E2, -0603-G1, -0603-G2, -0826-B1, -1329-B1, -1346-B1

With a known good battery the first thing you need to do is short across the solenoid with a large screwdriver. If the starter does not rotate after doing a direct short across the solenoid then the possible failures are
1. brushes have failed PN 691293
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm?arisku=691293&aribrand=Briggs&arireturnurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jackssmallengines.com%2Fhelp.cfm%3Fario%253dgetAssemblyCollectionariamparipa%253dPM9pal%252fOMrBWQWIUdcnFpA%253d%253dariamparica%253dSZbK4L6Coa7x6uUs4GpK7w%253d%253dariamparioem%253dXvJ5ciehzMlRPuYl6AGTzQ%253d%253dariamparit%253de5873224-2078-4502-bafb-f3d152ad1030

2. clutch drive PN 693699
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm?arisku=693699&aribrand=Briggs&arireturnurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jackssmallengines.com%2Fhelp.cfm%3Fario%253dgetAssemblyCollectionariamparipa%253dvPeUTlu3YDfmwYL6Gw0GOA%253d%253dariamparica%253dTsDbdYXVI6Qn1YzysILPBg%253d%253dariamparioem%253d%252fpffjcIvC9SlWxueY%252fCB8A%253d%253dariamparit%253d0bcd50f3-5a20-4ad4-9a49-bbb79431d1b6

Also check the battery cables from the battery to the solenoid and the starter. Battery cables over time can fray near the terminal connections and no longer carry the amperage needed by the starter.

These starters are rebuildable but by the time you order all the parts necessary and pay parts replacement and shipping costs it often s cheaper to replace to whole assembly.

I used this link as a parts reference: http://www.jackssmallengines.com/help.cfm?ario%3dgetAssemblyCollectionariamparipa%3dvPeUTlu3YDfmwYL6Gw0GOA%3d%3dariamparica%3dTsDbdYXVI6Qn1YzysILPBg%3d%3dariamparioem%3d%2fpffjcIvC9SlWxueY%2fCB8A%3d%3dariamparit%3d0bcd50f3-5a20-4ad4-9a49-bbb79431d1b6#AssemblyPartsSearch'model_returnURL'assembly_YnfzUgDGpzDL*uz5nmYC2w=='brand_BLopErRikMHjwyIuh*j8WA==

Thanks for chosing FixYa,
Kelly

I think your carb float/needle valve are not opening fully. Adjusting the carb doesn't help this. Try lightly tapping the side of the carb with a small hammer to see if that corrects - at least temporarily

there may be safety switches, but if you are getting a spark, that is not the problem. After you cranked with no start, is the spark plug wet with gas? can you smell gas in the cylinder after pulling the plug? It could be that your carb float/needle valve are stuck closed. Try lightly tapping the side or the carb.

On some float-type carburetors, you can adjust the air-fuel mixture and engine speed at idle. Check for an idle speed screw designed to keep the throttle plate from closing completely, and an idle mixture screw that limits the flow of fuel at idle. If your carburetor contains these screws, proceed below.

1. With the engine off, remove the air filter and air cartridge.
2. Locate the idle mixture screw and turn it clockwise until the needle lightly touches the seat. Then, turn the screw counterclockwise 1-1/2 turns.
3. If your carburetor has a main jet adjustment screw at the base of the float bowl, turn the screw clockwise until you feel it just touch the seat inside the emulsion tube. Then, turn the screw counterclockwise 1 to 1-1/2 turns. Replace the air cleaner assembly and start the engine for final carburetor adjustments.
4. Run the engine for five minutes at half throttle to bring it to its operating temperature. Then, turn the idle mixture screw slowly clockwise until the engine begins to slow. Turn the screw in the opposite direction until the engine again begins to slow . Finally, turn the screw back to the midpoint.
5. Using a tachometer to gauge engine speed , set the idle speed screw to bring the engine to 1750 RPM for aluminum-cylinder engine or 1200 RPM for engine with a cast-iron cylinder sleeve.
6. With the engine running at idle , hold the throttle lever against the idle speed screw to bring the engine speed to "true idle." Then, repeat the idle mixture screw adjustments from Step 4 to fine-tune the mixture .

back pressure is from a blocked muffler ( carbon build up) if it is that old then it could be overheating from grass and dirt build up around the cylinder fins and not cooling properly

most likely that the timing is not correct you line up the dots on the crank gear and the cam gear not the flywheel and the the crank shaft dot the plug will spark every time the flywheel magnet passed the coil

.004"-.006" on intake and exhaust valves cold engine. I would set them at .005" .