20 Most Recent Husqvarna 965142201 K750 5HP 12" Gas Cut Off Questions & Answers

here is the link to the owner's manual.

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2009/HOUS2009_O0901001.pdf

if you have any other questions, please visit www.ButlerPower.com or call John at 860.233.5439 x222

No adjustment, automatic.

turn both air fuel mixture screws 1/4 to 1/half turn

Before taking the saw completly apart, I would check the fuel filter which is inside the gas tank. There is a black hose with a filter on the end of it which lays on the bottom of the tank. the easiest way to get the hose out is to empty the gas out into a safe container. Flip the saw so that it is upside down and grap it with some needle nose pliers. Once the filter is out pull up on the aluminum coupling, this will release the filter. If you do not have a new filter on hand just simply use some carburator cleaner to spray the dirt and slim. There is a hole at the bottom of the filter that will most likely be pluged with slime. Spray some cleaner in the whole and use a tiny flat head screwdriver to clean out the whole. When the whole is free from slime, spray the filter down with cleaner again. This should do it. put the filter back on the end of the hose and fill with gas. Should work perfectly. Keep in mind this is only a temp fix. You should get a replacement filter asap seeming replacing a carburator will be costly.... I hope this helps!

Piston rings are gaulded or stuck, easy to change and fairly inexpensive if you buy aftermarket parts on ebay. I believe piston, rings, and cylinder (if you need it) for less than $100.

If the motor revs up ok it might be the type of disc you are using. I used a huge 2000 Sten one time from about 1961 going through rebar cemented inside cinder block wall to make some windows. It used the huge 18 inch discs and the older guy that was my boss said there is two types of discs - one is tar bonded abbrasives and the other is resin based which is three times better cutting and doesn't smoke up your lungs while you are breathing hard. They are usually dull red with no black in the grit if you look right up close. If the motor stalls or has a cutting out noise at high rev without load it may just be a dust covered gas filter which is deep inside the saw's gas tank on the end of a rubber tube.

My dad had a similar HUSKY "Rancher" chainsaw. They are very high revving and tempermental and require fine adjusting the two screws which are in little holes in the plastic on the side, using a small screwdriver. One screw adjusts the amount of air and the other the amount of gas or there may be a single one to adjust both. This just sets your carburator for the idle rpm. He use to cut early in the morning when the saw was still at -25 degrees Celcius and the air at +25 C, so it would ice up the carburator for a while which of course changes all the idle screw mix settings. A lot of times it is in correct adjustment but the air filter gets clogged up with fine sawdust, so you just have to clean that with some gas or carry a spare clean one into the bush. Your's is a very big displacement so it will **** in great volumes of dust while working. With a clean filter you should be able to actually stall the saw by screwing the gas in too far. When the air adjust is according to the manual, you adjust the gas one outward or CCW untill the chain starts to nudge ahead - that is the TOO MUCH GAS amount. Now turn it back in untill it reaches a happy medium or smooth tone to the engine and doesn't sound like it will conk out. You don't want the speed to be such that when you pick it up and carry it through heavy brush that it will take nothing at all on the trigger to rev up to 20,000 rpm and cut your leg right to the bone! It's against IWA rules to move a running chainsaw even one step, but best to be safe as possible. One other problem I had was an internal fuel filter inside the gas tank on the end of a short rubber tube. When it clogged with fine dust, the saw had to pull too hard to get any gas, so the fine idle adjust screws didn't work until I cleaned the inside gas filter. This was a pain as it was an older Homelite where the aluminum two part chassis had to be unscrewwed to get at the gas filter inside and then put back together with a new paper gasket, which takes hours but has to be done. If all this checks out, it may be a wrong oil-gas mix or the gas is too old. It makes quite a difference to use a very small gas can and buy just a few cups of 94% octane just for 2 cycle gas-oil mixing in these saws especially if you only use them a little and then they sit for months. Also, watch out for the bottom of the saw when you set it down on a log with 1/4" knots sticking up - these can actually break through the bottom of the aluminum gas tank near the handle underneath some HUSKYs!

Check your air filter, if clean chances are your carburetor needs to be rebuilt. the carburetor has thin diapragms that get hard and won't meter the fuel in fast enough.

Same exact features, buttons and functions as this manual by Irwin.

http://www.irwin.com/uploads/documents/36_laser_tape_25.pdf

I want to use an old sensor forgiven during 30 years. I have no more manual, off course. Thanks for your answer

Most moisture meters measure the moisture content of wood or concrete is measured in percentages. So if the reading says 15 that means that there is a content of 15% moisture in the concrete.

Pressing the - (minus) button on the back toggles temperature units. Pressing + (plus) toggles barometric pressure units.