You can't. Your phone doesn't have an IR Transmitter and your Samsung TV is not a smart television connected to the internet.
Just buy a new Copy Facsimile Remote for the set for about $20.
https://www.fixya.com/support/r29872378-universal_remotes_no_facsimile_remote
NOPE scrub all that, this isn't even a television, it is a computer monitor!! No chance for remote control of a computer monitor as it is controlled by the computer is is connected to. single channel single function, just a display of what is went to it.
https://www.google.com/search?q=samsung+p2350-1
..
A quick bit of research tells me that these may be diagnostic error codes. Hopefully our television Expert Larry will be along soon. All questions need full model number please. You can edit it in. Make and model plus (what it is) should be first three words in the question as it is the most important part of the question for Experts scanning the list..https://www.google.com/search?q=+Samsung+TV+blinking+number+%2F+letter+on+screen..
Sadly, this type of 'analogue' Camcorder technology is becoming very old. Most modern TVs don't have 'analogue' connectors fitted as they are generally not commonly used. Your going to need a specialist adapter that can convert the S-video to a digital format like HDMI or USB.
Samsung means poor quality power supply.
Probably time for a replacement printer but have an electronics engineer take a look at the power board. Possibly failed capacitors, like their TVs.
I'd try cleaning the pins going into and out of the top buffer board, if that doesn't fix it, I didn't look up the model but if it has a top and bottom board reverse them and see if the bottom half goes black, if nothing changes it's the y sustain board that's bad
Hi Dan, there is an IC that process HDMI signal that's located on the main board, it's a cheap part but unless you have advanced soldering skills and the equipment to change it you will destroy the board trying, in most cases a replacement main board is the way to go.
Hello! Based on the issue you described with your Samsung UN65JU6500DFXZA TV, there could be a few potential causes for the intermittent black screen and loss of sound. It's difficult to pinpoint the exact faulty board without further diagnostic testing, but I can provide you with some information that might help.
In Samsung TVs, the most common cause of intermittent black screen issues is often related to the T-Con (timing control) board or the main board. The T-Con board controls the timing and signals that drive the pixels on the screen, while the main board manages the overall functionality of the TV.
Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem:
1. Check your connections: Ensure that all cables, including HDMI and audio cables, are securely connected to the TV and external devices. Sometimes loose or faulty connections can cause intermittent issues.
2. Test different input sources: Connect various devices (e.g., DVD player, game console) to different HDMI ports on your TV and see if the issue occurs with all of them. This can help determine if the problem is specific to a particular input or the TV itself.
3. Perform a power cycle: Turn off your TV, unplug it from the power source, wait for a few minutes, and then plug it back in. Power cycling can sometimes resolve temporary glitches in the TV's system.
4. Factory reset: If the problem persists, you can try performing a factory reset on your TV. This will restore the TV's settings to their default state. Note that a factory reset will erase any personalized settings or saved preferences, so make sure to take note of your settings before proceeding.
If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it's recommended to contact Samsung support or a professional technician for further assistance. They will have the expertise to diagnose and repair the specific problem with your TV.
Please keep in mind that without a proper diagnosis, it's difficult to determine the exact board that needs to be replaced. It's always best to consult with a professional technician who can examine your TV and provide an accurate solution.
I hope this information helps, and good luck with resolving the issue with your Samsung TV!
You have a bad COF IC on one of the panel boards, this is shutting down the power supply from over current, bad news is the set isn't repairable, you would need a new panel to fix the set, you won't find one anywhere.
Hi Jason, unhook the connector going from the p/s to main board, plug the set in and see if you get backlights, if you do replace the main board, if you don't get backlights test the 13 volt supply, if it's good replace the main if it's missing, low or fluctuating replace the power supply, this is a very easy set to diagnose.
Lets start by eliminating the parts that won't cause your issue, the main board could not cause it, it turns the lamps off, that's correct it turns them off, the inverter will turn the lamps on with the main board not connected. The power board could cause it but it's not probable, only way this could happen would be some shorted windings in the transformer that powers the backlights and in the thousands of?? set's we've repaired in our shop I've only seen excessive backlight voltage a couple times. Considering this set is edge-lite, the lamps get quite warm, if a few are shorted the strip will get hot enough to melt the plexiglass. Where are you getting the replacement lamps from? Is it possible they're not meant for the model set you have? Are you getting a good contact with the tape on the back of the strips? They need to be tight against the frame, is there tape that's bunched up causing a gap between the strips and frame? Without pulling up service lit on the TV (not at shop now) I can't tell you what the correct B+ voltage should be coming out of the inverter but usually it's about 80% of the DC rating of the caps. Other than what I've suggested I can' think of anything else to advise on, I can get the exact voltage of the inverter next week when I get into work.
If one string of LEDs fails to light, the power supply will detect the fault and shut down. That's pretty much standard operation.
Unfortunately, LED backlights have turned out to be more delicate than we were told they would be. They are very susceptible to static electricity damage - they might not show it right away, but eventually a damaged LED develops a short circuit, then burns out. This disables the entire string. So, if you go to all of the work of disassembling the display, use ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) precautions and protection when handling any LED strips or cables connected to them. If you decide to replace the failed LED, it's probably a good idea to change all of them on the string because chances are the other LEDs were also zapped and will fail later on. The LEDs are typically surface mounted with both glue and solder, so replacement is not trivial. You may be able to buy complete LED strip assemblies.
One of these days, some lawyer will figure out that high LED failure rates in certain models were due to careless handling in the factory, and there will be a flurry of class-action lawsuits. The lawyer will get a few million dollars, and all of the people with bad TV sets will get $7.53 each (at least that's how defective product litigation typically plays out).
