20 Most Recent General Electric WJRE5500GWW Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

You may need to put a level on top of the washer and then there are little feet like under the washer you will need to turn those either way untill all 4 are right, meaning once the level says it is level then you are ok and avoid overloading.

General Electric... | Answered on Jun 13, 2014

It would, as water runs down due to gravity. Does it leak only during a certain cycle (like spin)? Is the washer under warranty? Could be as simple as a seal needing replacement, but you may have to either get a repair man or get a new washer.

General Electric... | Answered on Apr 20, 2014

Check the door switch to make sure that it is ok. The motor in this is direct drive so it could be the controller.

General Electric... | Answered on Aug 25, 2013

A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

General Electric... | Answered on Jan 24, 2011

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you may lost or have weak balance springs/rods in you machine, It does take experience to work with and balance machines.

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General Electric... | Answered on Jan 01, 2011

Most agitation have screws on it, to remove the agitator, please follow the steps below:

1. Unplug the GE washer from the wall outlet. Open the washer lid to access the agitator.

2. Grab the bottom of the agitator with both hands and pull the agitator out of the washing machine. If the agitator will not budge, rent agitator hooks to pry the agitator out. Agitator hooks are available at appliance repair stores. Set the agitator hooks under the agitator and push down on the handle to pull the agitator off the shaft.

3. Pry off the plug on the top of the drive bell on the agitator shaft with a small flathead screwdriver. Use a socket wrench to remove the hex head bolt at the top of the drive bell. Carefully pull the drive bell up off of the agitator shaft. This may take some force depending on how stripped the inside of the drive bell has become.

4. Then you can now remove the agitator once the belt is out.

Good luck and have a good evening!

General Electric... | Answered on Jan 25, 2010


Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. It may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. The transmission may not be shifting properly. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.



General Electric... | Answered on Jan 24, 2010

I had the same problem and fixed it today. all you have to do is take a putty knife and on the front of the washer, just under the top there are two clips that hold the front on. the top doesnt need to come off at all. the clunking sound means that at some point the washer was perhaps overloaded and is now bottoming out when it gets to a certain point in the agitation. take a pair of pliers and rebend the silver mounts in the front corners where the tub is suspended

General Electric... | Answered on Dec 29, 2009

The transmission has gone bad. I hope this machine is still under warranty. I own my own applaince service company where we do warranty work for GE. This problem is well know by GE. When we receive a warranty service call for one of the GE top loaders and we diagnose the unit with this problem. GE will only pay us the trip charge and diagnosis fee. They replace the machine rather than repair them. The GE dealer that delivers the new unit is not allowed to leave the used unit but to take it with them and later destroy it so that no parts are useable. GE has had a real bad problem with their transmissions in their top loaders for about 10 years or so. You will find that it is cheaper to buy a new machine rather than replace the transmission even if you were to do it yourself. If the unit is not been out of warranty for very long, I suggest you call GE, give them your model# and serial #. tell them it has a bad transmission. Let them know that you understand that they are totally aware of the problem with their transmissions in top loaders. That you expect them to either grant you large a discount on a new machine or to cover a high % of the cost of repairs to the one you have. I understand that they have done both for customer in an attempt to avoid class action judgments. It' s worth a try. Sorry for the bad news but I see this all the time.
P.S. GE is still building bad equipment. They are surviving on their name because thay have totally destroyed their reputation throughout the industry.
Please rate solution.

General Electric... | Answered on Sep 09, 2009

Could be a cycle timer problem but also a mechanical malfunction

General Electric... | Answered on Aug 29, 2020

It really sounds like the belt. You say it's in good shape but if it's loose or shiny from not having proper tension it wont have enough friction between the belt and pulley to actually work. If you've ever tried to move the drum when its full of clothes and water you know how much force id needed to function. Double check that belt tension and working surface.

General Electric... | Answered on Sep 01, 2018

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