20 Most Recent General Electric WCSR2090D Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

replace programer

Used to be that you could buy the ratcheting coupler piece for 5 or 10 bucks for the old GE machines. Alas, no more. The newer GE timer must be replaced if the teeth are stripped.

Be careful not to damage the indicator dial when doing this repair as it is about $20 for a round piece of plastic and a tiny steel clip. Pry this off using opposite points of the dial (grab it at the 9 o'clock and the three o'clock positions with as many fingers as possible) and pull gently so as not to set up any fractures in the dial's hub.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-WCSR2090D1WW/0432/0153200/G0503026/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Unplug machine, remove knobs, end panels. Remove remaining screws that hold the control panel and tilt forward. Removing the fascia will reveal the screws that hold the timer on.

Sears PartsDirect wants about $80 for the timer.

Good luck from Detroit, MI.

I think one of the contact points has come off on the timer, this would cause the problem you describe (there are many sets and several of them interact with each
other to produce desired cycles) They become burnt then detach occasionally.
Or, if this is a used unit, the timer may be incorrectly
installed (upside down). I have seen this a couple of times. Hope this is helpful.

Fix to problem might be simple such as cleaning out the inlet filter. Remove hose from machine and look inside machine side of connection. There is a cone shaped screen that can be removed and cleaned. Some times the screen stay attached to the hose end, so if you do not see it in the machine, look at hose.
Harder may be that the water inlet valve is defective and does not open. You can check this by reversing the hoses and see if you get hot water when you fill the machine on cold setting.

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It is worth checking the filter every now and again to make sure that is ok.
It should be down at base of machine behind small flip cover.

You might have a partially clogged drain past your drain hose
(In the wall etc)
Thats overflowing behind the washer.
Watch the drain for a few washings and see if it overflows
It may be second or third or fifth load. Its hard to catch
If this was helpful please rate me.
IMUFO2
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas
[email protected]

The best option is to look at the source of noise than to specilate on a whole list of possibilities.
Please use a good lighting to look from the underside of the washer . Now rotate the main shaft, rotate the drum and check.
The fault can be poor spindle assembly, check bearings, belts.
Also it can be that some foregn objects have lodged into the tub from any clothes during the wash. so check this out, if so remove after dismandling.
Please proceed to check and respond.
Helpful?

You will always hear that water, as it is a liquid in the balance ring around the top of the drum.
Take the front off by using a putty knife to push in the two clips at the seam where the front meets the top while pulling on the top of the front panel. Now, with the washer empty, take the small hose off the left side of the tub and clean out the gunk that is in the last few inches of the tube. Also, poke a thin wire into the nipple the tube came off of on the tub. Replace tube and front panel. Done.

the drain is clogged,take clothes out.And scoop water out.now put Draino-max and let i set in for 1-2hrs. then run empty through cycles.it may take 2x to drain propper

If it is draining down and spinning the clothes dry then all of the water is draining out. There is only about a 1/2 in space under the tub. There is a balance ring around the top of the tube that holds water. That may be the sound you are hearing? Try washing a load without anything in it on hot and use a box of baking soda. See if that will help with the smell. My washer leaves a mildew smell sometimes. I started running an extra rinse cycle on it. And that helped. I think it was my water.