Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Possible Solutions:
You have no voltage going to the unit. You did not say if the compressor was running.
If no voltage then check the breakers. If breakers are tripped could be a bad motor or a shorted to ground compressor.
If the compressor is running possible solution could be a bad run capacitor.
Check for any lose wiring (MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF). Many problems occur because of dry contacts. Simply by tightening any wires and wire nuts and removing and reinstalling any spade connectors.

normally due to positive and negative air pressure mixing while the water is coming out, it means your almost vapor locked, and sounds as though the drain is not properly trapped. You should have at least 1/2 of fall per foot or run on the drain and it should be trapped with a p-trap or running trap to prevent it from a vapor lock, and to keep the air outside from mixing with you conditioned air inside by entering though the drain.

If you own indoor pets you will want to change the return air filters monthly like religously. You may also need to have the A-Coil other wise none as the evaporator coil cleaned manually. It is located inside the air handling unit inside the house somewhere. It could be restricting the air flow across the coil with daner and dust and/or deris. Sometimes it can be difficult to clean but with care and lots of elbow grease it can usually be done. Be careful not to bend the fins! Once this is completed and the unit still freezes up! Then you can be sure it is low on refrigerant 90% of the time! Cleaning the A-Coils is something you should do or have done anually!

Hi, I am assuming you are talking about the indoor coil icing up when you are in cooling. The reason I am asking this as this appears to be a heat-pump and they will ice up in the winter at the outdoor unit. I will go with the indoor coil. If the indoor fan is blowing up to speed and you have cleaned the indoor coil but still have this ice forming, it could very well be that you are low on freon. This will also cause the suction line, the large copper line outdoors to ice and on into the indoor coil. This will happen if you have developed a leak some where. Also, make sure you have good strong return air coming back through the air filter, because if you have problems with the duct work like holes from varments, or you have had any repairman around the duct work, sometimes they will flatten it causing no air flow and you will have ice. My bet is you are low on gas. Shut the unit off to make sure it has no ice on the coil, and go to the outdoor unit. Have someone turn it to cooling and put your hand above the fan on the condenser coil. The air should start to get warm and then hot if the freon level is ok. This also depends on the outdoor temperatures. The hotter it is outdoors, the hotter the air will be. If it is rather cool, around lets say 75*F, and this copper suction line is starting to form ice, the problem is it is low on freon. In this case, this is something you will need to call a tech out to charge the unit. You have to be certified and be able to buy the right freon which is only available to a/c and refrigeration tech's. If this is a heat -pump, and it is winter where you are and the outdoor coil is icing up, let me know and I can go through the steps to check this out. I do believe this is a summer problem where you may be, but you never know unless you ask. Please don't forget to rate me on this post as I am sure you will be kind. I wish I could save you a tech call, but if its low and you have cleaned the indoor coils, and filter is clean, then this is the problem.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

unit is light it weighs about 150 lb maybe less however thats not a 2 ton its a three ton im very aware of goodman model no.

please give me a rating and vote you need to check your capacitor it is bad if its good it will give readings does it look swollen sometimes they swell

Hi,
No you don't need the cover... in fact I recommend not covering because it traps moisture and gives rodents a great place to hide and stay warm over the winter...

heatman101

First turn off power to the outside unit and use a screwdriver or something that you can reach the fan blades with and make sure the fan rotates freely. If it doesn't you probably need a new fan. Next check the capacitor. If it looks swollen, it's bad. If it's not swollen then you will can use a multimeter with the capacitor test function and check it. You can also take it to a heating and air supply and they will test it. Some units use a double capacitor that runs the fan and the compressor so you will need to take note of where the wires connect to it.

Hi, and no, no, no,!! There is still plenty off the R-22 freon units that have been made, and there is plenty of the R-22 to last for another 15 years or so. If your compressor is fried, it should be around $12 to $1600.00 to replace it. This includes recovering freon, replacing the compressor, a new suction and liquid line drier and a new run capacitor. In fact, they sell a complete compressor change out kit for your unit right this minute, includes every thing he needs to to the job.This is a 3 ton unit and the price he quoted you was awefull!!! There are plenty of compressors on the market for your unit every where, he's just trying to sell you the new R410-a unit and stick it to you on the price. Call around and give them your model number and tell them your compressor is bad. Get several estimates. That compressor is available today, and I could call my supplier and have one with in the hour. Go with a new compressor, it will be years before they use up the R-22 we have. They still haven't used up the R-12. Please don't forget to rate me as I know you will be kind, and let me know if you need my help.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Hi,
The transformer is burnt out... you will need to replace it... this is common and they burn out easily if a low voltage wire it shorted even for a split second, or if there is a brown out...

They best way to prevent this is by installing a 5 amp fuse ahead of the transformer in the high voltage line so that it blows before the transformer goes...

heatman101

Hi, the new motor takes its own capacitor to run it. This is what the 2- brown wires are for, one will have a white stripe. You will need to but a seperate run capacitor for this motor, a 5 uf, 7.5, or what ever it calls for. they should have told you when you bought the motor. It will have to spade connectors on it where the brown wires connect alone. Use the dual capacitor if that is what you have for the other 220 volt wires.Black and purple will be your 2 hot wires.You can connect either one to the old capacitor on the fan terminal and the other to the load side of the contactor, so when the contactor closes it will energize the motor.Or, take both the black and the purple wires and to the load side ( outlet side ) of the contactor, connect one to one side and the other to the other side. The line side is where your 2 hot wires that connect to the contactor from the incoming wires from the electrical box, you want to be on the other end. I would connect the black to the contactor load side and purple to the old capacitor as long as the old wiring is still on it as it has to be fed by a hot wire from the contactor. Each wire, blk, and purple has to have 120 volts to each one and you can get this a couple of ways. The contactor has several terminals that are not used and if you wire them on the outlet side, they will only be energized when the contactor is closed on a call from the stat, very easy to do. You will have to get a coulple of crimp on connectors to put on the ends of the wires, but the brown ones should already have them for this capacitor. Do not try to put the brown wires on the old run capacitor as you will burn out the new motor! Go get the small run cap for these 2 wires for about $10. I know that you can do this wiring change just remember the blk is hot 120, and purple is hot 120, = 240.volts. If you have removed all of the wires from the old capacitor, then use the contactor to connect to. The compressor wires must stay on the old run cap on the hermetic side and this old cap. must be fed by a hot wire from the contactor to the common terminal, that is marked with a C..If you look at the new motor diagram, it will show you also. Please dont forget to rate me as I know you will be kind, and I will check in on you to see how you are doing. Get this capacitor and it will run. This is a must!! Please keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Hi,
Your indoor motor is going bad and not running full speed...

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool…

Air Conditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

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Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool…

Air Conditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

Hi, this unit has a time delay relay built into the thermostat and also has a small time delay relay that is in the condenser unit. Since both units are coming on, but the compressor is not energized, this tells me the delays are working if the outdoor unit kicks on, so that rules the delays out. Even though this unit is brand new, what will keep this compressor from coming on is if when this system was installed, they did a poor job on there brazing of the copper joints and it may have lost its freon charge. This happens a lot. It will shut off on its low pressure switch. Everything seems to be working good from what you have said but the compressor. There is nothing you can do, but you can call out the installers to find out what is keeping the compressor off as it is still under warranty, and the compressor will have a 1-year warranty anyway. Come to think of it, if it has lost its freon, the fan would not run on the condenser outdoors, so that's not the problem. It may have a problem with the compressor, as I have seen them come from the factory with problems!! It does happen, you know the saying even though its new doesn't mean it works. Call them out a.s.a.p. to solve this for you as you may have lost the compressor already. Do this now and keep me posted. Please don't forget to rate me on this as I know you will be kind. I will keep checking back in on you as I keep all of your information on file if I need to get in touch with you, and you can reach me through my user name below. Keep me updated on this, so call them out know and say you want them out now. You paid good hard earned $$$ for this so you should not have to wait.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Hi, this is a 3 ton unit. It may or may not have a variable speed fan. You are saying it turns very slow or just stops. I believe you either have a problem with the run capacitor, or you are loosing this motor. They are putting variable speed blower motors on some units now, but if you are talking about your condenser fan motor, it may have a head pressure control to speed up this motor when the ambient temperature is higher and slower when cooler, but to stop when running indicates a motor or run capacitor problem. Check the cap. for oil leaks, swollen and deformed, burned terminals. If you find this, replace it. Remove the fan guard and carefully with the power off after it has ran for a while touch to see how hot the body of the motor is. If it is to hot to touch, you are loosing this motor. If you have a clamp around amp probe or know someone who may, you can look at the data plate to see what this motor should be drawing as far as amps and compare your readings to this. You will know for sure doing it this way.
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor

Sounds like you have the run wire connected to the capacitor instead of the start wire. I expect you have 3 wires; Common-black, Run-probably orange, and Start-brown. You should have either L1 or L2 from the contactor connected to the Com terminal of the capacitor. Connect Orange/Run to the Com terminal of the capacitor. Connect Brown/Start to the Fan terminal on the capacitor. Connect Black/Common to the other side of the contactor. The fan should run the other way.

you have to replace valve must hire a pro for this a homeowner cannot do this repair

could be low on freon or the compressor is not running

should be on the capacitor go to grange and they can match it up

could be what we call dirty sock smel,l you need to replace evap coil or have it cleaned it's from the manufacture using recycled copper in there coils.