20 Most Recent Gateway MT6821 Notebook Questions & Answers

This sounds like Vid Chip failure, That has a very inexpensive mother board that can be replaced There is one listed on a popular site that sells used parts for $10.00 right now

If you are referring to the DC Jack..(the port where your AC Adapter Plugs into) then typically No, THey are cheap enough that it is best to replace with new.... Yes they can be repaired, but chances are they won't hold up to the stress, and will just cause problems down the road...

Desolder The Faulty DC Jack... Go Slow, Use Solder Wick/Desoldering Braid... And A Solder Gun...Flip Motherboard to the underside of the DC Jack, You want to put a very small amount of FRESH solder on all Pin ends of the DC Jack - this will allow better flow of the solder when trying to remove...
Then Use The Desoldering Braid and slowly remove the solder from the DC Jack Pin Contact Areas... Do Not Rush or you will ruin the contact pads on the motherboard, you must make sure all solder is removed,,, if you attempt to rip out the jack cause you think its "good enough" you will end up pulling the C ring from the center of the Jack Pin Hole...

Once You Have All Solder Removed Use Some Flux Paste And Again go over each pin to ensure all solder is gone, then you can remove the faulty DC Jack...

Now.. Clean the motherboard where the DC Jack Was... Remove All Old Flux and take your solder gun and go over the Jacks contact pads so that you have fresh solder on all...

Now Add a small amount of flux to all the DC Jack Contact Pads and add alittle to the Pins on the replacement DC Jack.....

Then Solder The New DC Jack Into Place... Solder The BottomSide First... The Pin Ends ..

Then Flip Over and add small amount to the side negative pins and the power pin(s)...

Now you are done..

You can add Some Heat Resistant Automotive Epoxy ( Safe On Electronics) to the sides and back of the new dc jack.... this will double the strength and prevent future damage/wear and tear...

it sounds like you have a bad sector on the part of the hard drive containing this file. you need to let chkdsk complete the scan as it may be able to recover the corrupt file and isolate the bad sector so its not used again.if this works backup the system as your hard drive may be failing.

Hello and thank you for using Fixya's services.

Are you running Windows XP or Vista?

It sounds like the Windows updating has caused a problem in your operating system.

If it is windows Vista, press F4 right when the comuter comes on. Instead of choosing safe mode, choose advanced options. This will give you a screen to do the windows restore.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Just go into safemode then just reset your password through there

Have you tried restarting the computer? This usually disables all locks. Hope this helps =]

Hi there,

I believe the problem you are experiencing may be due to a dead battery. I'm not saying in the sense that it needs to be charged, but that it won't hold a charge. Try replacing the battery in your Notebook with another, but save the receipt. If it still doesn't work then you likely have a failure with a piece of hardware inside the notebook and it needs to be serviced.

This isn't software related and I wouldn't recommend opening the Notebook yourself unless you really know what you're doing. One wrong thing in there and you won't only void the warranty, you could also cause permanent damage to multiple system components.

The solution I've found is simple.
No need to disassemble computer.
The DC jack will over time crack the solder on the center pin through the pc-board and lose continuity.
First remove the keyboard cover by removing 2 screws (on rear under hinges) and gently prying upward beginning at hinges. Directly under where the power button was and beside the actual power switch find the solder connections for the DC jack. (The jack is on other side of board. You are seeing the bottom of board).
Examine all jack connections for cracked solder around the pins. a magnifying glass helps. Usually it is just the center pin which is toward the rear of the jack, obvious cracking causes intermittent connection or no connection.
If you have no experience soldering I recommend you leave this task to someone who does.
Carefully apply rosen core solder to pin(s) using proper fine tip iron. heat thoroughly til pin moves in hole then apply fresh solder. Be quick. Not too much solder, not too much heat. Be careful not to allow iron's barrel to touch plastic case or tip to build solder bridge to any other connection.
Problem solved.
[email protected]

This is listed on the Gateway support website in this pdf- http://support.gateway.com/s/Mobile/Q106/Oasis/8511725_Service.pdf

First item is cleaning the lens assembly.

Get a CLEAN Q-tip (do not touch the cotton end) and some rubbing alcohol.
Open the Disk tray as you would to load a disk.
Dip the cotton end into the alcohol, then touch to a paper towel for a second. this drains off the excess alcohol.
G-E-N-T-L-Y wipe the surface of the lens. It is mounted on a very flexible mount, and pressing on it can damage it. While wiping, you should not feel resistance. The lens should only move slightly.

Blow on the lens to help evaporate any remaining alcohol. Use a dry Q-tip and repeat the wiping.

YOU MUST REMEMBER NOT TO PRESS ON THE LENS. A LIGHT TOUCH WILL DO.

Retry the disk.

If this does not produce favorable results, you have a hardware issue. If this is the case, please re-post on this form and mention you cleaned the lens per my instruction.

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armania40

ok what that is saying is the hard drive is not being reconized by the bios. you will need to go into the bios by hitting either F1 or F2 or delete . turn off computer as soon as you see it coming on hit one of the keys i mentioned. it should say entering setup.
in setup you will need to load the default settings..
look at the botom or left hand upper corner. sometimes it will be across the top. look for load default settings . select load default settings save and exit. if this fails you may need to replace the harddrive also known as ( HARD disk or HDD.

One or more of the hints below will probably sort out most USB problems with most USB portable / external hard drives and OTHER devices (though not always)

A few things to check but assumes USB and Windows for other interfaces / operating systems (mac/ Linux) similar steps may be adapted to suit.

1. Ensure it is connected directly to the computer to a USB 2.0 port not a USB 1.0 port as this can have effects on performance and reliability

2. Use only the cables that came with it NOT one that fits that may have been lying around or is longer. Not all USB cables are equal even though they should be)

3. Do not connect through an external USB HUB unless that hub is USB 2.0 AND has its own power supply.

4. Use ONLY the power supply that came with it if it has an external power supply Don’t use any other unless you know it has both the same voltage and current rating e.g. 12V 500mA anything rated below that would not work properly.

5. Always use the same port for connecting your devices. Some devices do not like being switched about. If switched they may want to install software / drivers again. This can be especially true if you move a HUB to another port

6. For FLASH DRIVES you should ensure that the device is set for "quick removal" using the drive control panel properties or use the USB "Safely Remove Hardware" option. If you dont do this there is a very strong chance that any files you transfer may not be there when you plug into another computer.
7. It is possible to remove drives from the enclosures in most cases and connect directly inside a PC to fully check it.
You should also do this to cheack the drives connections are not bad inside the enclosure.
8. If none of the above steps help look at updating the drivers from the manufacturers web site in the support section.

9. If you checked and fixed anything there and still have issues then check your hardware from CONTROL PANEL / SYSTEM / HARDWARE.
Any exclamation marks by hardware need fixing before you investigate any further
SPECIAL NOTES
USB flash drives can fail for no apparent reason.
Sandisk Cruzers are especially bad for this.

USB hard drives should be treated with extreme care.
This is a real hard drive ! and knocks and bumps can quite literally kill them.

Note that if you hear a drive clicking or pinging this could be the worst thing you would hear.
Known as "The Click Of Death"

When installing XP or Vista you get the option to load third party drivers for unknown devices. I think it's F6 just after the start of any version of Windows, once you press this you will have to supply the drivers for the Windows installation. This will make Windows recognise the hdd from then on.

Please make sure your Optical Drive is working properly. You'll have to test the drive to make sure it is working properly.

http://support.gateway.com/support/drivers/search.asp?st=pn&param=1008255


try this site it has the drivers u need for ur gateway...good luck

sounds like you have a defective lcd screen, there are these conductive rubber pieces that lead the signal into the lcd panel and once the connection deteriorates there is no going back. this could still be replaced, there are laptop repair places that do it, but you have to have to weight your options with buying a new laptop, repair could be up to 50% of what your's is worth as a 2nd hand laptop.

Can you access your desktop? Can you connect to the internet? If you can do both, then it may be time for a spyware/virus scan. Head to www.filehippo.com and download Malwarebytes Antimalware to your computer. Install, update (if possible) , and run a quick scan. Remove anything it finds. How long has the message come up? Do you remember the last thing you did before the message came up? Post back a proress report please..

you are confused ( the rules are not singular ever) first of all these are the rules on DDR3 (any mem) upgrades

1. gateway manual covers this but no GW model told.
2. bios shows its ok or upgraded , bios now works.
3. chipset allows this DDR3 and that same density
4. not violating slot limits or both at once limits
5. matching sku on DDR3, says intel clearly.
6. no PC does 32BG with that chip set,. (none sold so no way on the earth to test it ever in that YEAR NEW) but is a logical limit only in the i3 MMC. per its datasheet intel.com
7. try the bios upgrade,
8. NO OS told at all, nor how you know 8GB fails does bios see it>????? if the OS is 32bit max is 4GB (3.2GB with video stealing VRAM from Dram per chipset H67.
9. is this a real intel mobo?> as some are, then if yes ask intel too for help.
10. intel bios is BLH6710H.86A date. Version 0162 or later 2018
11. Most old mobo do not like super new DDR3 it high density DRAM on the sticks, some do if bios upgrade.
12. Intel is mute now on this Discontinuted product. theirs"

Gateway M what does this mean,???? M is notebook not desktop so you posted to gateway forum for any intel actual mobo DH67CL if this mobo came from intel new, then only ask them or post to intel forum not gateway but gee I do know some old makers of PC simply stuffed in this mobo into there cases and sold it by there name. but no GW model told AT ALL. been here yet https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000021462/boards-and-kits/desktop-boards.html RTM from maker, do as they say. and over 4GB needs 64bit OS. the 32GB limit includes PCI memory too, see page 40 , and know that your unstated OS must know how to use the upper memory bank of the MMC controller 4 slots of DDR3 are there. (4x8=32) make sure BIOS likes it first NOT WINDOWs (if is>?) bios is first and bios tells windoz how much DDR3 is there, and works with that. 32BG is possible if all things are correct BIOS if it scans the SPD chip in the DDR3 each , and BIOS is does not know what it sees , it will truncate DDR. max.