Top 20 Aeris Snorkeling Bag Questions & Answers

Purge valves are fairly generic. If you can't easily locate a Aeris dealer, go into any SCUBA shop and ask if they have replacement
purge valves. They do come in several valve and nipple sizes, but you might get lucky. Any dive store worth it's salt will have spares of that sort as a customer service. Failing that, just call the company, talk to customer service and they will likely send you one for free.

Or more to the point: Snorkels don't work under water. They work on the surface by allowing the wearer to have his/her face in the water so that one can look at what is going on and the top of the snorkel is several inches above the surface allowing the user to breath through the tube. If, as often happens, the snorkel gets water in it, there is a trap at the bottom that catches it so you don't **** it into your lungs and on the next exhale you do so forcefully and this expels all the water from the tube and allows you to continue breathing.

"A snorkel must fit comfortably in your mouth, allow you to purge water out of the mouthpiece and hose quickly and help you to swim efficiently. But, the most important characteristics to remember when choosing a snorkel are its length and the diameter of its barrel. Snorkels must not be too long or too short. If a snorkel is too long it will be difficult to breathe because the barrel will fill up with carbon dioxide. Every time you breathe out carbon dioxide through your snorkel your breath must travel up and out of the barrel of your snorkel to allow you to draw oxygen back down the barrel and into your lungs. If your snorkel is too long you will only push a percentage of the carbon dioxide up and out of the barrel during your exhale. You will need to inhale oxygen before all the carbon dioxide has been pushed out; leaving the percentage of carbon dioxide entering your bloodstream higher each time you take a breath. This cycle could lead to suffocation. If a snorkel is too short it will constantly fill with water, requiring you to constantly force the water out of your snorkel which can be very exhausting. The inside diameter of your snorkel must be approximately three quarters of an inch or 1.9 cm. If the snorkel is thinner than .75 inches it will be difficult to breathe because there will not be enough room in the barrel for you to draw enough air into your lungs. This will cause you to breathe harder and rapidly, which could cause hyperventilation. If the barrel is thicker than .75 inches it will be too large and will be uncomfortable to use and attach to your mask. Learning to attach your snorkel to your scuba mask to make sure it is easy to grab and use is an important part of safe scuba diving practices. Snorkels are attached to the left side of your mask with a snorkel keeper. Snorkel keepers are either plastic or rubber and most use a post-hole closure. Each snorkel keeper is different and attaching your snorkel to your mask with a snorkel keeper requires practice. If you will detach your snorkel from your mask after each dive you should practice attaching your snorkel, as it can be a little tricky. Alternately, you can leave your snorkel attached to your mask if you are diving more than once in a day. "

No need to use soap or fancy cleaners for snorkel or dive gear. The important thing is just to get the salt off, and plain old fresh water will do the trick. The best way to clean your gear, is to fill a bucket or a tub with warm water, and then dunk your gear several times to rinse it out thoroughly. In some cases I like to swish it around underwater, and maybe rub the rubber parts to ensure a thorough rinsing. After that, let it drip dry and store it in a cool, dry, *dark* place. Salt and sunlight are the two things that'll kill your gear in no time at all, keep it safe from that and it should provide good use for a long time.

Step1 Make sure you are gripping the mouthpiece of the snorkel securely with your teeth. Step2 Exhale forcefully through your mouth. The majority of the water should be expelled from the tube. This method is commonly called "blasting" or "popping." Step3 Inhale gently at first in case there is any residual water. Blast a second time if needed. Step4 Continue blasting whenever water enters the snorkel.

Every scuba diver spends time on the surface while preparing to descend for a dive. A snorkel allows you to conserve energy by letting you keep your head in the water while swimming and enjoying the pre-dive sights without ever having to remove your head from the water.

ask them maker for that or google all week, get lucky?

Make and model may help you get an answer.

Try to spray the commercial available mist to lower surface tension in order to avoid build-up of condensed water

it depends on the quality of the mask and it depends on how you stored it (if you leaved it at sunlight, if you washed it thoroughly after using it in the sea...) i have a mid quality mask Mares mask, i have been using about 20 times for snorkeling, then i used it to take diving certifications in pool, then i used it for about other 20 dives in the sea... i always stored it in a dark bag (the mask is now about 8 years old) you can check if you mask is still in good shape, and the silicone has not worn out, in this simple way: just put the mask on your face without straps.. remove all the air inside the mask by inhaling with your nose.. then look at your feet (keep inhaling): if the mask remains on your face you can keep using it

You need to consult with a factory technician. Your life depends on these devices. I am certified in USD Survivair and no one can set those after a rebuild kit without special tools and measuring devices.

Yes...the octopus does exist.

Please see Page 28 of the manual http://ns.suunto.com/Manuals/Companion/Usermanual/Companion_usermanual_EN.pdf

They have eight legs and are Cephalopods. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FCephalopod&ei=EB0FVaWtI8zLsAT30IE4&usg=AFQjCNETlGDK7Bi6L4BhBnDiJq2tqVBCQw&bvm=bv.88198703,d.cWc

I noticed another FixYa guru here answered a question on another strand that applies to yours: Also, please note this person on FB claims to be the Lemax fix-all guru. You can ask them more specific questions:http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:0YBPB3sM28kJ:https://www.facebook.com/eHobbyTools%3Ffilter%3D2+&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us The Knex website has building help for this problem. There answer is as follows: Make sure all rods and connectors are fully hooked together, especially the blue and gray connectors. Even one peice not fully hooked together can twist the model just enough to jam the gears. (You may have it hooked together correctly prior to jam problems so it is good to check since I found a loose on holding the motor.) The chain links need to all be attached in the same direction, and fully hooked. The chain also needs to be on the tower with the hooks facing down and in as the chain runs on the outside of the tower. (Chain should be outside on the front and inside in the back with the 5 yellow bar side in the front.) Check that all gears are positioned correctly according to the instructions and the teeth facing the correct way. If you are still unable to get the seat to drop, you may remove the top yellow cross rod that the chain runs over - the model will also work with this piece removed. I did all of these steps with my son and his still had trouble dropping all the time. It still seems light so the seat didn't have enough weight to drop with gravity during the non-moving cycle of the orange half gear. We decided to tape on 2 marble passengers to see if that helped. It did!!! When searching for other solutions, I noticed a UTube video that added people also so this seems to be a common solution. Try it or some other light weight added and see if it solves your problem.

Hello, There is one thing on some computers that will restart it like the day you bought it, see if there is a very small symbol that looks like a shooting star taking off from the ground and making a U turn and back down that\'s the best I can do for what it looks like, it will be only about 1/8 th in. tall and 1/16 th in. wide very small, it should be close to the power on button on your comp. this is a Rescue System to start all over from day one, I have a Lenovo G570 Laptop and it has one of these, thank god as my comp. got a very sick and would not even let Windows start up I pushed this button and I was able to clear all the stuff that was stopping it from opening, if your lucy you will have something like this on yours, Look it over real close to find this symbol, sorry I don\'t have a pic. for you, you could also check if there is a Tech. help line for your brand of comp. Well I hope this may help in some way, and get you back on line.

What I think will solve your problem is dynamite????

Dive computers display a large variety of information relevant to the diver's needs. Such information includes: Current depth, elapsed dive time, and how much time remaining the diver has before having to make decompression stops.

Dive computer batteries generally cost between $10-$20 (AA, cylindrical). Coin batteries are cheaper and are sold for a few dollars. For a complete list of batteries, check out these websites: http://www.batteryweb.com/divebattlist.cfm and http://www.batteryprice.com/divecomputerbatteries.aspx

Most dry suit manufacturers make patches that can be put over the leaks, you should check with the manufacturer - also your dry suit could be under warranty so check into it.