Hobart AM14-253 Free-standing Dishwasher - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The dishwasher is plugged into an ordinary receptacle somewhere -- either in a base cabinet or behind the dishwasher. Find that, and check to see the receptacle has power. Perhaps something got disconnected in the other appliance swap or a breaker got left off and needs to be reset.

Have you checked the boiler for scale? Also, the thermostat might be faulty. The over heat stat is separate from the operating stat. Chech them both for temp range

could be a couple things first is water on.then check to see if sol valve is energizing start the fill cycle put a small screwdriver on the solenoid valve is it magnetized.if so check line strainer to see if it is plugged or valve could be limed up.if not magnetized coil could be bad,or could have got wet fuse might have blown.remember this is 24v coil I have seen some do it yourselfers put 120v coils on this will not work.couple things to check .need more info.

I have done this with a 10k termistor and is easier do it on the conection box of the motor. Leave them there. You need 2 termistors and find the cable pairs.

Poor connection somewhere.

It sounds like a bad pump gasket. Can you be more specific as to where the leak is?

Depends on the version of the control board. If its the original, with a large heat sink near the center you can only adjust the rinse lenght by adding a jumper. Look on the right side near the middle to top. you will see a place to add the jumper in a set of pins, near where the jumper is for low or high temp options. If it's the new style, you can short the two pins and go into factory service mode. Use the buttons on the board to advance through the options while monitoring the display. the Up arrow will incriment through each option. Powering off will save the changes.

I assume you mean the (smaller) rinse arm? You most likely have debris inside your water fill solenoid valve. Turn off water supply and disassemble valve carefully to avoid losing parts and clean out valve, you can also crack water supply to flush it out briefly while solenoid is apart. reassemble in same order that it came apart and try it again. If that doesn't fix it you need to replace solenoid valve. $100 at Graingers or $350 from Hobart.

Solenoid Valve must be damaged.

In my city (London Canada) we have many many used restaurant equipment and new restaurant equipment supplies. I don't know what country/state/province/city etc etc to be able to direct you.

"hi" no me aparece nada y con HL120 es una batidora

It is easy to have foodstuffs and grease in the plumbing of a restaurant. If you open the grease trap does it overflow onto the floor. If there is no flow to the grease trap then you need not only an electric eel but possibly a root cutter attachment from a very professional company. Not the ordinary plumber or do it your self rental equipment.

http://tdfoodequipment.com/images/am14-14c.pdfThis has the contact info for Hobart on it. Given the age of the unit though, you might be out of luck. It is possible that the motor was done correctly and the power issue is somewhere else. There could be an internal fuse or a power transformer that has failed/

Remove the back cover of the motor to expose the plastic fan. Find the c clip that holds it on the motor shaft. Remove the nut that is on the front side of the impeller. I used a vise grips to hold the shaft from spinning on the side where the fan was. A small 2 or 3 arm puller hooked under the front shoulder of the impeller and that is all you need to do.

Unfortunately none

see this probably causes:Water-heating cyclethe heating will be importante, test the hot water, and heating elements Timertest the timer for contact, and probably defective.see the diagram attached.

Hi.The pump motor is about $1500. Here a seller that has the spare:MOTOR 208V (SINGLE PHASE) AM12/14The pump is available on Ebay for $925.

Ok, Dont forget to disconnect the power before touching anything electrical. especially around water!. Much of what I've added here will take care of most motor issues and doesnt necessarilly pertain to the problem that this guy had. I just added the extra tips for those of you having similar problems with am12 or am14 dishwashers.

Always check and repair burnt wires if needed.

1st: With the power on! Look at the main control board inside control panel door. make sure the Hot Motor Light is Not illuminated. If it is, you have a hot motor or one of the two sensors in the motor is open(bad, no resistance). With the power off, Motor Sensors can be bypassed with 1000ohm resistor from Radio Shack. Hobart does sell the sensors (motor thermistors). They have to be packed into the motor windings by a motor specialist to replace them. Otherwise just bypass the one that is bad by rigging resistor into the plug where the "sensors" wiring harness plugs into the board or rig it into the motor side of harness and tape it up so it doesn't short out to anything. Note: A bad contactor on 3 phase units can cause over heating(usually you will hear motor hum). On single phase motors, a bad start switch(inside motor) or capacitor(mounted on motor)
will stall the motor and overheat(again you may hear it hum, usually). IF YOUR MOTOR HUMS, The FIRST thing to check is to make sure the motor spins freely. take a screw driver or something similar and try to spin the motor by pushing on the plastic fan visible thru motor vents. If it does not spin freely, check to make sure there is no silverware or a scratch pad stuck in suction side of pump, inside dishwasher tank. Its tough to get to, you may feel it with your fingers or use a small mirror and flash light to see up under the inlet hood thingy. if its clear, You may have bad motor bearings. Remember, thats if the motor does not spin.

2nd: Check for blown slowblo fuses on main control board iinside of control panel door. Check all the fuses for that matter. There are 4 or 5 total depending on what version you have. Most likely it is one of the fuses on the control board. Some times its hard to tell by looking at the fuse if it is bad or not. Check it with ohm meter or swap it out with correct fuse. Also there are small lights that are labeled on this board. One is for the door switch. With door closed it should be lit. Open door, no light. If that light is working correctly, and you dont have a hot motor as in step one and your fuses are good, you either have a bad contactor coil or bad motor. OR The control board itself is bad (unlikely, but possible) but make sure you check all the other possibilities first before you go replacing the expensive parts (motor or control board).

Tips: Make sure there is no water dripping into any of the electrical boxes or componants. This may be blowing fuses. I usually use 1 1/2 amp sloblow fuses on the "control boards". Check the wiring diagram in control panel to verify what size is intended to be in it. If it doesnt say, use what I use.

If your going to Rewind motors locally at a fraction of cost of new. *If you have bad motor thermistors*, buy new ones from hobart. The guys I deal with at the motor place I use, made the mistake of thinking the sensors where thermal fuses and thought they were bad. No, these are thermistors and as long as you measure some resistance in them, say over 900ohms, they should be good. Most all of the bad thermistors I've seen, measure Open (no resistance). sometimes they gradually go out and give you fits trying to figure out where the problem is, as far as the hot motor light goes.

Good luck!

show it to mecanic he will change

Replace the wash arm and also the seal kit that comes with it