20 Most Recent Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Take a look at page 7 of the manual here: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/PDF/Hobart%20LXiH.pdfThis tells you the voltage for yours...hope it helps you

The error you see is that the dishwashers chemical board (located on the back of the machine) isnt sensing the chemical.First thing to check is remove the lower front panel,2 philip screws.On the left you will see 2 pumps one on top of the other.

They may be marked (det and r/a),turn the dishwasher on these 2 pumps should run.If they dont your pump may be bad or the control board.Run a full cycle to make sure.

If they do run i would make sure the standpipe in the r/a bottle isnt kinked or the tubing.Let me know,i'm a hobart tech.

You can order a new booster heater.... I would just need the size of the booster heater itself in order to price you one.... What state are you talking about? Susan Restaurant Equipment Outlet 888-542-5959

Hi,

Here is the installation manual for your dishwasher.. Page 9 is the plumbing for your model...

Click here

or you may have to go here then enter the security code shown...

This should give you all of the information you need... I would print it off for easier reading and future reference..

heatman101

Most of the Hobart LX series of dishwashers have their own built-in booster heaters. To check for one, remove the lower front panel (2 screws). The booster heater, if present, will be a stainless steel tank on the left side. If it doesn't have a built in booster heater then it was meant to be used with chemical sanitizer instead.

Hi.

The most common reason for P3 is the thermistor. You said that you already replaced the part, but if there is no power to the element , the problem is either thermistor or a broken wiring. Thermistor can be tested by reading Ohms, and double tested by jumping and running controlled cycle. If there is power to element, the problem was the thermistor.

Access the element in the booster tank, disconnect wiring and read impedance. If the element reads infinity (open), then the problem is the element. If element is OK, then test wiring reading impedance to find out where there is continuity. If you find open between two points, there is the problem.

Could be bearings or something caught inside the impellar. If you take the wash arms off and run a cycle with water, it will "sometimes" blow out anything in the impellar. Undercounter machines are usually problematic - recommend avoiding them when possible.

hello. should this be connected to the cold water tap as it heats itself the hot water coming could have damaged the inlet value hope it hleps a little

regards
shaun

There are two different styles of lxis one style has a drain diverter valve probably messed up some how something stuck in it not diverting the water to the wash arms and instead pumping right down the drain I am guessing this is your problem.There is actually a little black washer in the body it is controled by a dc solenoid .washer probably come off and is gone you will have to replace the whole drain body.This drain body is a real pain to change.Not easy but it can be done.If you change it yourself get the two new short hoses that go to it it will make things easier.But pull it out before you buy anything it could just be jammed.You can reach under the machine trough the front bottom plate where the gauge is located and move the flap by hand to see if it moves.TURN OFF ELECTRIC this little dc solenoid will give you a good zap.after doing that turn electric back on.leave cover off and look under with a fashlight.live wires will be exposed keep hands clear fill machine wait for it to stop.then turn it off it will drain when finished the solenoid will click three times.this is so drain will clear itself.if it moves then you have no electrical control issues.It is probably bad diverter valve.Good luck hope this helps.

If the valve is the round shaped one with two hoses going into it .that is the vacum breaker.Most likely a 3/4" you can get these at plumbing supply try just unscrewing the guts clean with delimer and unscrew the guts from the new one and screw them in.unplumbing the old vacum breaker can be tricky.the plastic fitting some times break.I use a 1/2" wire brush for plumbing to clean the vacum breaker houing.with delimer remember take your time and always back up your plumbing fittins with another wrench as not to put any stress anywhere else.