Jura Capresso C1300 Coffee Maker, Espresso Machine - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The switch or photo sensor is not sensing any beans present. So it can't continue Use torch to inspect bean entry area Small brush etc

Hi Marton Registered repairers love you guys.... If you carry a smartphone these days and most of us do. You need to learn to take photo's first. Even the Las Vegas pro restoration guy on TV does that. Sorry I don't have those photos and you'll be really lucky is someone on Fixya does. Try YouTube videos.

What model do you have? What's the problem you are trying to fix by resetting it?

Just a guess here but if you are not using soft water you may have a hard water scale coating on the sensor. The sensor is preventing the heating element from powering up because it thinks there is no water. Try filling the machine with vinegar for several hours (no more than overnight) This will dissolve hard water deposits and hopefully clear the sensor. (the sensor should be a simple continuity contact. If you can look inside and see a metal button and it is fouled clean it off.)

Try running distilled white vinegar through it.

constant heating message on screen is from a thermal fuse blown on one of the boilers. service call required i'm afraid...... very cheap part about 10 euro

Try applying hot water around the dish to expand and unstuck while gently but firmly pull the tray. It went in so must come out.

http://www.nordson.com/en-us/divisions/asymtek/documents/Manuals/392771am620isb.pdf All the best Kolbrun Descaling is there

I just opened up my Jura Capresso C1500 Machine. It's a little tricky, but here is how I did it. I gently pryed the front part of the top off. There is a tab connector in the very front of the oval in front center. Lift (or gently pry with a flat head screwdriver) straight up until it comes free. There are several other tabs that will lift straight up on both sides of the top. However, there are two tabs in the back (one on either side where you see the black pins protruding out the back top of the machine) that are encircled around the pins. The only way I could get those off was by gently prying until the tabs snapped off cleanly. I pryed the one on the right first, and it stayed intact except for breaking off the bottom of the circle; so it will actually still snap into place back over the pin. To free the left tab I simply lifted the lid up and down several times until it snapped off cleanly. There are so many other tabs that fit tightly into rectangle-shaped sockets that breaking the back two did not change my machine's appearance or function. Once the top was off, you can access a lot of its workings including the grinder, top water tube, spout, etc. I use dark beans that are slightly oily so I took off the bean compartment, silicone funnel ring, and attachments and cleaned them thoroughly with hot, soapy water. We found a pebble or two in our beans through the 8 years we have used it and I think they have done some damage on the grinder.

The machine gives the massage that you need to fill coffee beans when the grinder motor rotate more freely than it should be when the beens are inside the griders disks. The problem you describe is very frequent and is due that the beens even you have cleaned it as you mention they don't make it up to the grinders disks. So if the grinding disk are not damage by any reason - like over heated or arecoven with coffee beans oil and coffee remains- you can try first to udjust the grider to more gross grinding by rotating the upper disk with special tool. With this you will give the chance to absorbe in the disk more easiy the beans. Also if you manage to grind some beans more gross this will also be used as a cleaning product for the disk and flush out any oil or cofee remains stuck inside the grinding disk. You can turn us much you will need to see the bean been grinded but as an advice use a marking pen and make a marke where the grinder udjustment is before you do anything since you will have to turn back the udjustment to the same point after you fix the problem. If you fix it like this then you have to turn it back at original place but only by small steps at a time then make a coffee and then turn again a litle bit. By this you will avoid blocking the disk with grounded coffee and you will have to do everything from the begining.
If all the above does not have any results then you will have to desasemble the grider and brush the disk so they are clean and put them back together.
Their is a very small posibility that the electronic is faulty but this is very very rair, so give emfasis to the first solutions

Error Code 4 is related to the heating sensor.

If it's currently in a cold room then switch off and move to a warm room (>65 Deg F) for a couple of hours and try again to see if you get the Error message.

email to Jura, they will send you a copy of the manual for free!

Most of the time when this problem happens, then it is the hose is plugged up. And ne to be descaled. Have you descaled the machine lately?

I hope this Jura F90 dismantling guide may offer some clues for your E-series machine. Before you start remind yourself of the risks. In case of a mess up, below I've listed a firm selling spares in Europe. In the UK it is assumed that it you can afford the BMW of coffee machines, you can afford to fix and service it too. However I haven't tried any of the servicing firms so they, and yours could be really, really helpful and cheap. You will need about 4 different torx; hexagonal and possibly unique screwdriver bits to remove all screws. A plastic pry tool (used for mobile phones) will help where plastic lugs hold on the side and top panel. Empty beans; water store and remove the waste tray. On the Jura F90 use pliers to undo two oval headed screws at the back at the top. You'll be able to remove the top panel after using a pry tool to disconnect two lugs at the front edge. You don't want to dismantle the coffee grinder and its hopper. Retain the hopper's rubber seals or glue them in place before you lose them as I did. Four screws hold the central back panel. Slide out a white key underneath the machine (can't recall how crucial this was). The side panels are removed by using a pry tool to release lugs all down the edge where these panels meet the front. Work slowly to manoeuvre the side panels off. If you simply want to clean the brewing unit externally then just remove the panel on the water side. Find the water inlet just where the water tank sits. A screw here allows you to remove a plastic piece - but take a photo of how it slots in. This gives access to the lower end of the brewing unit. If the plastic piece is still it the way, you can ease off the water pipe from the water inlet and put it aside. A number of different brands are made by one firm and branded. Thus the guts of these machines are similar. The brewing unit in the Jura F90 is almost identical in many machines. The screws and attachment places are different. The water inlet and valve are different. Cleaning the parts you can now see may fix a Malfunction 8 without removing and dismantling the brewing unit. The machine is partly operable in this state - cover the exposed electrical connections and remind yourself of the danger here. Thus you can switch off the power when the brewing unit's white wheel is at the top and then at the bottom. In this way you will get access to places causing any jam. You might just need to clear the inner chamber and path for two plungers with two large O-rings. You can see the water inlet nozzle with its o-ring which can perish and cause coffee or water to go to waste. Silicone grease only where the O-rings slide. Leave the other plastic parts ungreased. As I said you might get away with not disassembling the brewing unit. You can however buy a maintenance kit or a new brewing unit from the shop below. You will want to avoid removing the nylon water pipes - unless they're actually leaking. These pipes are held in place with a wire clip (remove with a flat head screwdriver). Ease the nylon pipe with its brass collar out of its socket. The pipe goes into an O-ring in the pipe's socket - this might fall out. Removing a brewing unit is like removing a car engine. The link at the shop below has a pdf (Anleitung_Jura_E.pdf) There is no need to force anything. On the Jura F90 the brewing unit is removed by undoing two obscure screws from the coffee grinder side. I had difficulty removing these and I wish I had taken time to find the right tool instead of wearing down the screwhead. On the electronic side there's an optosensor (encoder) unit held in place with a steel clip. You might remove this to access one of the two screws. At the bottom of the brewing unit, the water inlet valve is fixed to the machine with a single screw. Next, on the water tank side, you'll see two lines of screws that hold the assembly in place. The middle screws of the screws allow you to separate the unit from the gears. The top two holes don't have screws. Coffee machine spare part supplies are not as common in the UK as they are in mainland Europe. You'll find this web useful because of the pictures: www.kaffeemaschinendoctor.de is a German web shop for machine spares AND there's a pictorial of how to dismantle the Jura F90 as a pdf. Google will almost translate it). Juradoctor.de also carry lots of spares but don't seem to ship to my country.

The same as most any pumped coffee maker: With a 5:1 water-vinegar mix

Add a TBs of baking soda to remove the dirt smell and acid taste.

The machine did not complete its cycle, either while finishing a brewing cycle or a cleaning cycle. This is caused because the motor is not strong enough and overheated. I think it is a design problem, but there is a "work-around" solution.
First, to put basket back, look inside opening. You will see a flap at the back of the opening. This flap is down and is what is preventing insertion of basket. Take only the grounds basket. Tilt the grounds basket and insert it so the back end of basket goes under the flap. Then level out the basket. Note the flap is now inside the back end of the grounds basket. Holding the basket up and level, re-insert the drip tray and the basket holder underneath the basket. These should now slip into place.
The "work-around" solution is to let the motor cool down. Unplug the machine for at least 30 minutes, then turn unit back on, and the cycle should complete because the motor is now cool.
I notice this error 8 happens mainly when the voltage from the Hydro Utility is low. This happens during peak electricity usage hours. So, to clean your machine, do it on the week-end during the daytime either mid-morning or mid-afternoon.

Good luck

The Touchdisplay is defective. You need to send the machine to service to have the display changed.

these coffee makers and, many kitchen heating appliances have a small thermo fuse in between the one side of the plug and, your heating element it looks like a metal can with one flat and, one pointed end Radioshack sells the fuse

take out the mecanism and clean it how is instructed in manual, than get it back carefuly. Pay attention on position of mecanizm.

Rosa Sauceda You woke up a dormant 10 year old post!! Better to post your own question. The area where you poste is to ASK the OP for further details before You answer the question. The maker or Hamilton Beach would be the place to ask. Or just use a normal knob and a large washer. https://www.google.com/search?q=welbilt+coffee+urn+60+cups+parts+diagram ..