Top 20 KitchenAid Artisan 5KES100 Espresso Maker - red Questions & Answers

Check the elements, there are 2 on the steam boiler, if 1 is open then that stops them. If your boiler comes complete that's fine, if you just get the element part then you must replace all the seals. I replace the seals on a new boiler anyway, originals are silicone and I upgrade to viton seals. Large one at the bottom, 3 small ones on side of base and one finger sized one at top steam pipe. Check switches for operation, sometimes they stick, if CRC does not fix them then replace. Make sure steam tap shuts off properly. The group head seal goes hard over time, replace while you are working on it if it is. Check thermostat has continuity when cold, on the side at the back of the boiler.

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The pump probably has air in it, open the steam valve and pump it through.

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You will need to investigate the reason that it's not heating. Check the element and the thermal fuse that should be on the element for continuity. If the fuse has failed replace it and try it again. If the element has failed you may be looking at buying a new coffeemaker.

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Probably the device has calcium built up in it. Do a proper flushing round of at least 500ML (around 15 flushings) or do the "Decalcify" program with the needed tablet for the machine.

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Either the scale has not been removed or the sensing circuit has failed. From Kitchenaid, signs a coffee maker needs cleaned; 1, Cleaning indicator light comes on (select models) 2. Excessive brew times 3. Gurgling or other unusual noises during the brew cycle. So ignoring first condition, does it exhibit either of the remaining two? If yes, then likely remaining scale. Try letting descaling agent set, up to max period stated by mfg, then start clean cycle. If no, possible sense failure.

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Leaking water from bottom of unit during brewing:
  • Verify that the water is leaking from the bottom of the coffee maker and not just running down the back during filling and pooling underneath. (Look under coffee maker - without lifting - to see if water droplets are hanging from bottom of unit)
Resolution: If verified that water is leaking from bottom of coffee maker Contact Us for further assistance.

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The "percollator" column has become dislodged from the heating element. You may be able to see the tube in the water tank and move it back over the heating element. If you can't understand this info, then it is not for you to do it yourself.

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There is a blockage in the drip tray or inside the cavity where your coffee goes, give it a good clean out

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You don't say if there is any water flowing along with the loud noise. If there is none then my suggestion would be that it's a dry water pump so you will need to force some water up the clear pickup tube into the pump while it's making that loud noise. The pump valves will be dry.

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Shame we don't know what model you are talking about.

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You need to replace the boiler top that includes the elements. When one element has failed the other one stops as well if it is included in the circuit, it's the same as having a broken wire.

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You will need to test for where the power stops & check the fuses on each boiler for continuity. If you find any blown then replace the thermostat on that boiler along with the fuses. The thermostats are different rating for each boiler, don't mix them up. It's highly unusual for both boilers to fail at the same time. Occasionally one of the boiler elements can fail, there are 2 elements on each boiler, check them for continuity. If you have any boiler leaks then replace all the seals on that boiler, the steam one is the one most likely to leak. Buy your own seals using the old ones as samples from someone specialising in O ring supply. There are 5 seals on each boiler. Do not purchase rubber or silicone seals, only use Viton seals, they are high temperature.

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Test each element for the correct resistance. Check the thermal fuses for a circuit, they are held onto the top of the boiler with a screw down bracket. Check for a circuit through the thermostat.

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There are several switches inside one of those if it is model KES100. Best to supply model number and say which switch it is, without looking I can think of 4 switches off the top of my head. I'm in New Zealand and have 3 of them in stock.

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Hi James, if colours to terminals is good enough then I can take a photo of the relay and email it to you, if you are brave enough to supply one to me. Alternatively mine is Note I did not use the at symbol so as not to attract attention.

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You simply can not sharpen it. The grinding is not based on actual cutting, but more like crushing. The "knives" are slightly conical pair and you adjust the grain size of the ground coffee by adjusting the space between the two parts. If it is actually damaged you have to replace it, but if you have been grinding very "oily" beans there might be some left over stuck into the burrs. Then you need to clean it by taking the grinder apart and brush the knives with a stiff brush - do not use soap or water. A stiff toothbrush is just ideal for this. All the best, Villi

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Check your manual for instructions on the display codes.

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If the model is KES100 and coffee and steam are both at normal temperature then the problem is one of the following 1) The needle has come loose on the shaft. Solution; turn machine on and press needle back onto shaft in the usual position for full heat when the machine is on full heat. 2) The gas/liquid has escaped from the copper tubing to the gauge. Solution; fit a new gauge assembly.

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What is your question? There are 2 boilers in that model.

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