20 Most Recent Arc'Teryx Theta Ar Bib Women's Questions & Answers

Crampons are outdoor footwear that are made from spikes and are worn on boots to provide traction on snow and ice. General-purpose crampons designed for most mountaineering and glacier travel are not well suited for vertical ice climbing. For ice climbing, specialized crampons that provide better support for front pointing are advised. Most crampons require welted boots to ensure proper fitting. Crampons with 10 points were first introduced by Europeans in the early 1900s. Because they lacked forward pointing spikes, they required step cutting on steep terrain. In the 1930s, two additional forward-slanting points were added, thus creating today's 12-point crampons. While 12-point crampons are now the normal selection, a few 10 point crampons can still be found on the market. The two additional front points further reduced step-chopping and allowed the climber to "front-point" up steep snow and ice. The angles of the first two rows of points also determine the best use for a particular set of crampons. If the first row (front points) bend downward and the second row is angled towards the toe, this reduces calf strain by allowing the boot heel to be lower. In this case, these crampons are better suited for front-pointing. When straight points are used instead, the crampons are much better suited for snow & general mountaineering. While crampons are an invaluable tool for a mountaineer, they were not used as often as today until the development of plastic-shelled climbing boots, because the straps used to affix the crampons to early mountaineering boots (which were made of leather) had a tendency to restrict bloodflow to the feet of the wearer. Crampons are usually made of hardened steel, but lighter weight aluminum crampons are popular for alpine ski touring where the need for them is less frequent & counterbalanced by the need for a light pack yielding fast, efficient travel over long distances. One problem with crampons is that snow can ball up between the spikes, creating a dangerous scenario where the teeth no longer bite into the slope. To prevent this, most crampons can be fitted with "anti-bott" plates: shaped bits of flexible plastic that engage on the body of the crampon.

There are three main types of attachment systems for crampons. These include Step-in bindings, Hybrid bindings and Strap bindings.

Depending on your style of climbing, you will want different kinds of Carabiners. There are basic types: your oval and D-shapes are your most basic Carabiners. Sometimes you'll want a locking Carabiner, especially for belay, or for anchors. Most Carabiners that you have will probably not be locking Carabiners. There are different types that are easier to clip. There's bent gates, straight gates, wire gates. It depends on your style and if you're weight conscious, or how durable you'd like them to be.

Typically, you'll only need to clean your carabiners by blowing any dirt or dust away from the hinge area. If any additional cleaning is necessary, then be sure to wash your carabiner in warm soapy water, and rinse it thoroughly. Once it is rinsed and dry, be sure to lubricate the gate area with a dry graphite, WD40 or other kind of lubricant. Using a dry lubricant will help to keep your carabiner clean longer, as dirty will not be readily picked up. Once the gate has been lubricated, be sure to wipe off any excess lubricant.

everal manufacturers of crampons for hiking/glacier travel. You want something w/ 6-10 Pt's, some can even be configured so they hinge in the middle. The bright side is the price of this class of crampon, they're a lot cheaper that the type you would climb a frozen waterfall. Should be any where from 39.95-100.00 and can be found at Campmor, EMS, Seirra Tradingpost. A word of caution...Do not attempt to climb vertical ice with a cheap pair of crampons, even if they have front points. I foolishly almost fell off some steep ice in the Whites when the points (both) sheared off my left crampon. If your not going to climb try to buy a pair w/out the forward facing front points. Hiking down tired your a lot more likely to hook frontpoints and trip, it'll happen every time you don't pick your foot up high enough. Also, get an ice axe, affords extra confidence when traveling up/down steep terrian. Enjoy Your Winter Hiking

I would check the ignition timing first.

Try contacting Ski Doo directly to inquire.

Unscrew it from the back of the speedometer and follow it back to where the cable terminates at the hub of the track. Undo it there and replace it with the new one.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1996+Yamaha+Vmax+XT+600+snowmobile.+How+can+I+replace+speedometer+cable

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6 months to a year after they are posted. not always but a lot lately !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BevWIdFi20

check fuse --need to narrow down problem spray with starter fluid if no start need to check ignition system starts then fuel delivery problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-tmU7UlJho

Some info and video which may help with some symptoms of no spark.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWrvHFI-C-o
https://snowgoer.com/uncategorized/snowmobile-tech-tip-diagnose-weak-spark-or-lack-of-spark/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJsYGTLzA2o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmjdtpoRix8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uggJMnuexMc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnzsuRAV-Ro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbHSfHjMp28
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1195074-74-tnt-340-spark-issue-confused/

It's pretty basic and old school on all 550's and 380's unplug the back of the ignition ( it will now start without the key using the pull cord) remove the rubber boot from the ignition and unscrew the nut holding the ignition. Don't know why it needs replacement they pretty much never fail my 09 gtx 550 has over 12k and no problem except freezing occasionally.

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