the bulb is located in the footer portion on the back side of the unit. HERE IS MORE INFO FYI
COOLING Dust on the condenser coils can cause overheating, observe safety precautions then clean coils. Switch off the unit before you clean them. If the problem persists, test the compressor for overheating. Overheating will cause many problems with cooling ability. Leave the unit unplugged for 3 hours and plug it in again. If it starts working, the compressor is probably overheating (Observe cautions with food going bad). A simple cause of the problem might also be that there is not enough airflow Lack of airflow is the number one cause of compressor problems and thus an owner purchasing another unit for hundreds of dollars when you can fix it for free.There should be at least several inches distance between the sides and walls/cupboards/ceiling. Electrical There is an in-line fuse mounted in the line supplying the power to the ice-maker. It is in the wire clipped to the side, change out this fuse asap. It is actually a 20-amp fused, associated with the grounded electrical supply. PARTS You may order parts very cheap from here www.canadianappliance.ca/KBRS22KV.html TIME TO CHANGE YOUR FILTER While your on the back of the system, please check the filter. There is a filter in the back of the fridge in the upper right hand side. If you do not change it, it will slow down the frig and burn it out permanently.
DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then checkout the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Many times a freezer and/or refrigerator
do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other
things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the
last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start
trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling
a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
You would be better off measuring not the refrigerator you are wanting to replace, but the space within which it must go. If you go to the store with current refrigerator measurements, instead of the space available, you wont know what size you can get.
sounds like the evapartor is freezing up. Have you tried cleaning the condesor coil on the back of the unit. It is located by the compressor take a vaccum cleaner and clean the lint and dirt off of it. then see if this does the trick if it doesn't I would check the defrost timer it is inside the box behind the plastic liner.
yes it sounds like your only problem is that the evaporator fan is not operating so open the freezer door and see if you hear it. if you do not hear a fan running in the freezer make sure that the other fan in the back and the compressor is running. just replace the evaporator fan in the freezer and that should do it
HI. This will be the result of mineral contents that have built up inside the solenoid based water inlet valve assembly. This will induce mechanical failure, within the inlet assembly. The issue is with the valve not closing properly, due to the mineral build up in the valve structure. This will cause the dripping issues you are experiencing. The necessary action will be to Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects to the water valve assembly. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up, by using a toothbrush or warm running water(CRL is great for this ). If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
jeff, at one time the ice bin was removed and there is a rod on the bottom of the bin remove the bin and you'll see an opening where the arm will fin the square plastic looking assy is probally stuck in the up position pull it down with you finger and reinstall the bin the it should work
under the facial plate, if you get way down and look upward, you can see two slots to insert a flat screw driver. Pry it open and there ya go...good luck
If you look at the bottom of the facial plate, underneath. There are two slots to insert a flat screw driver. You should be able to access everything once you take that off. Good luck
Coldspot 106. Model
This model refrigerator is a relatively small refrigerator. It is a Freezer on top model, and Sears documents lists this unit at 18.1 cu ft. I hope that answers your question about capacity.
I'm glad I could help. If you need anything else, just let me know.
In reality, when you buy a replacement, you buy by dimensions to fit the space not cubic feet of the old one. Go to Home Depot armed with a tape measure.
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