20 Most Recent Kenmore 80599 Microwave Oven - Page 5 Questions & Answers

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https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/72180823500/0583/0123370.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=721.808235000&searchTerm=721.808235000

There are a couple of other parts which could render the oven "dead," but the fuse is located on a noise filter circuit board located behind the controller.

You need to remove the grill at least, then you may be able to see the fuse, but if not, you will also need to remove the controller assembly.

At my web site I have a video showing you how to remove a typical over-the-counter grill and controller assembly in about 5 minutes.

after you see the video, if you have other questions, please feel free to contact me by email through my site.

http://www.microwavecontrol.com

that should be clarified in your operator/user manual. look there for the codes.

What is your question?

Sorry but no.

It may be just a stuck relay on the control board, which I can repair for you.

feel free to contact me directly, and be sure to remind me of the full model number from the tag on your unit and your symptoms.


Ed Miller
[email protected]
MicrowaveControl.com

Unless there is grease or moisture on the control board, especially in the area where the keypad plugs in, then you would have a failing membrane keypad.

But neither part you would need to repair this is available any longer.

Please feel free to follow up if you have more questions.

Ed Miller
[email protected]
MicrowaveControl.com

go to sears .com

they use a lot of power and should have it's own outlet, try plugging it in to the same plug as refrigerator, it's a double circuit and will have the power to supply both units, there should also be another plug in kitchen that is double circuit, keep trying different plug to you find it.. double circuit means top has 1 breaker and bottom is on another breaker

From the research I did the parts needed are no longer available, but you may be able to pull the main board and send it for repair.

I'm sorry to point this out and if you need to ask that much, you should call a qualified service agent instead. Please remember that an electric range is almost certainly the highest-powered device in your house - ie, the one that could most easily kill you dead. All half-way qualified service agents should know how to fix the problem you describe - and to talk you through what they'll do in a way which suits you. Again sorry, and I seriously suggest you consider which is more important: your life or limb, or the cost of an expert call-out?

Sounds like door switch problems, you say you replaced the door latch but did you replace the door switches too. most newer units have door switches with small 3/16 terminals and small undersized wires going to them so they get how and melt the plastic body of the switch and it causes a back feed of voltage when it is not supposed to be there. Check under the blades of the switch and see if you have any melted plastic of the switch body there, that will be your bad switch I recommend replacing with a switch with 1/4 terminal, they hold up to the current much better. Change the wires to the switch with larger ones that can handle the current better without getting hot

What is the model number?