A very likely cause of this is an inlet solenoid water valve inside of the machine is leaking. The risk is if left unattended the water will over fill and end up on the floor. Secure the inlet valves where the hoses connect to the wall. Make sure that the valves are closed.
This repair requires an experienced technician to replace. The parts are readily available. To use the machine supervision of the wash process is required. The solenoid vales in the machine can not be trusted and you should assume that they may fail allowing water to overfill at an increased rate.
At this point when ever the machine is not in use the vales need to be closed. If the solenoid valve has leaked even once it can not be trusted.
Without knowing more about why it is stuck, it should be an electric lock so unplug it and wait a minute. it should open but that won't help you find out why it stuck to begin with so the problem isn't fixed.
Sometimes, what may seem like a washing machine leaking from bottom locations is actually one that leaks slowly from other spots. Slow leaks can accumulate beneath your washing machine making it seem like you have a bottom leak. For more help identifying the exact point of the leak, see Washing machine leaking.Bottom leaks may be better identified using a newspaper. Just dry the floor and lay the newspaper beneath the washing machine before you test for leaks. Darkened sections map out your water leak. This method is not always foolproof, however. The best diagnosis will come from a qualified service professional inspecting your machine.If your washing machine is leaking from bottom in the rear, you may need a replacement pump and professional installation. The leak could also be caused by a faulty air dome seal or a hole in the tub. For more troubleshooting steps to tackle that leak, see Washing machine leaking from bottom. I hope that helps!
An F11 is a communication failure between the machines control board and the motor controller. Often you will also experience a 'DL' error associated with the F11 because when the washer fails, the door is still locked and when you restart the wash, the electronics will try and lock an already locked door. Either the control board or motor controller can cause this error along with a bad harness or loose connector, but the majority of the time it is the main control that is failing.
it looks as if your having a communication problem between your central control unit and your motor control unit.check wiring connection between these two components.if wiring is ok then you will have determine which of these components is malfunctioning.you can also remove kick plate and remove service manual located on either side at bottom.this should give you some help.
Hello Don, welcome to FixYa. Based on your information posted..."contol locked light is lit on the control panel. Tried holding the contol button in but nothing happens" ...this is actually a fairly common problem with these washers (including Whirlpool, Kitchen Aid, Maytag, Amana, (some)Kenmore to name a few built by Whirlpool) I hear about both on-line and doing on-site service.
The solution, however is usually pretty simple. As long as your washer is indeed the KitchenAid listed above, give this a try and let me know how it goes.
I don't know what "control" button you've already tried, so at the risk of being redundant...Press and hold the "END OF CYCLE /CYCLE SIGNAL" button as you count to 15...this will reset the control. (if this fails to "rest" the control, try unplugging the washer from the wall for 15-20 minutes, that usually works as well)
Good luck. Let me know how it turns out and if I can help you in any manner going forward I will do whatever I can.
Thank you for choosing FixYa. If this solves the problem, please take a moment to rate the info provided here and a testimony on your experience here at FixYa today is appreciated. (if it does not please let me know)
'F' could stand just for fault or 'filter' - no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
F11
is a motor control unit error which means that the motor control unit has
repeating under or over voltage or over current conditions due to internal
failure. You can check the wire harness connections between the motor and the
MCU (motor control unit) and also between the central control unit & MCU.
If the motor is working then replace the motor control unit. Hope
this helps...please post back for further assistance.
(no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway- if you haven't already!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Error code FH appears when No water is detected
entering machine or Pressure switch trip is not detected. If after 30 seconds
the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be
turned off and the error code will be displayed. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to
clear the display. If there is no water entering the unit then make sure that
the inlet valves are working fine. You may need to check the continuity at the
inlet valves. If the valves are fine then check whether inlet water hoses as
they might be plugged. Also check for inlet water screen at the valve. However,
if the water is entering into the washer then the Drain pump might not be
working. Also inspect the Pressure Switch hose whether it is in good condition
and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch. Also check hoses for leak
and inspect the flow meter. Hope this helps...
jazzbassic,
On the front of the unit is a control lock button, you will need to push and hold that button unit the control panel is unlocked. This should solve this problem. PS you may have pushed the control lock button when you either attempted to open door or just learned on panel, either way this does happen from time to time.
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249
F2 on this unit is long drain. Take the front lower cover off (3 screws on the bottom) and you will see a round white cover about 4 inches round. That is the pump clean out. Before you twist that cap off be aware the water will come out have some towels ready. Take the cap off and you will see all the junk in there remove it and replace the cap. Thats it good luck..
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This is symptomatic of an intermittent malfunctioning water control valve- the hot water one, if the washer is hot and cold fill, and the cold one if it is just cold fill!
Sorry but it needs replacing and a service call to confirm that it is not something else ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
