20 Most Recent KitchenAid KSRS25IL Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I just had the same problem. I found a small amount of ice formed under the water inlet point in the ice maker tray. This ice prevented the rotation of the "ice cube ejection fingers" so it couldn't cycle and re-fill. I used a hair dryer to melt this ice and the fingers immediately began rotating. Once they cycled, the tray filled with water as it should. All seems well now.

IF anything went bad it would be the water valve but is shouldnt have failed just because you didnt turn the water on.Just for grins, unplug the wires to teh water valve and plug them back in to make sure you have a good connection.Then unplug the fridge for a minute and make sure the water is on , and plug the fridge back in.Your solenoid may be stuck.THese are just things I would try..I'm mechanically inclined but am not a appliance repairman.

replace the water valve..sounds like the solenoid has failed or possibly has calcium build up so it doesn't make a water tight seal when closed.

Not shuting off..it is off if the dispaly and lights are not illuminated

check the bottom of Ref. see if it close right, sometimes the rubber near the bottom parts broken.

many times when a unit has a defrost problem the coils freeze up and do not allow the fresh food side to cool properly...check for a build up of ice on the inside back wall of the freezer compartment. if there is a build up of ice, you have a defrost problem. Also, check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is blowing the air into the fresh food side.

Have you tried to turn off the icemaker and turn it back on? Or maybe even unplug the refrigerator for a few minutes in order for the icemaker to reset?

I don't know if this is your problem but I had a similar problem and it was low water pressure causing the blades to freeze up. The valve on the water tubing leading to the refridgerator was not fully open and the tubing was kinked.

Drain clogged.

Directly below the coils is the drain. You may have to use a hair dryer to remove the Ice so you can see the drain hole but it's there. Once you unclog the drain all that water should go down and into a plastic pan under the Ref. Heat from the compressor will evaporate the water so, you should never have to empty this pan.

The water quality is really bad, you should change your filter often even the big water filter from your main line, need to change it after 4 to 5 months.

This is one of those things that i really recommend you call a service tech. it sounds like the compressor is locked up. if the motor starter is sparking then it signals an over voltage to me. either way call a service man from sears. good luck

check fan is free to rotate and that it has continuity. also check you have power to the fan.
you may just need to replace the fan motor

Probably the coolant has leaked out. Buy a second hand one..

spray door seals with furniture polish

Compressor change is probably more than you wish to tackle.
1) must be certified to work with refrigerant.
2) requires silver soldering and or silver brazing.
3) requires re-charging with refrigerant and this is critical and must be measured to the oz.
If it works fine when it re-starts we need to find out what is stopping the compressor. First guess is a defrost timer. The unit goes into defrost at pre-determined intervals, depending on the defrost timer. When it goes into defrost, compressor goes off, heaters come on, and a defrost cycle is initiated. Following this, the heaters go off, (usually by a t-stat and not time), and the compressor is allowed to run again. Changing the defrost timer, which is probably one of the least expensive components, is worth a try. No guarantee, but it is a better choice than the compressor. If the tech did any tests, did he say why the compressor was questionable? Since this happens once or twice a week, it sounds like the timer or at least it is coinciding with a typical defrost cycle. Here is a possible test, when you find it blowing warm air in the freezer, advance the timer 1/4 turn cw. See if the compressor comes on when you do this. That is probably more info that you were looking for, but this is worth a try.

How old is the unit?

Gary

If the noise from the bottom, probably you need Freon R-22

Could be damper door aslby. Or evap. fan....

check the connect part, see if the gears in the right position.

probably either the wire crossed or burned out.

Yes, it will cost you at least $150.00 for a repair tech to walk to your house, but your case sounds like your motor had problem, When the motor running loudly for several weeks, because it lack Freon R-22, that why made a loudty noise, some place is leaking very slowly, your compressor need freon. I think it is going to cost you at least several hundred to repair it, but if you can find a used working Reg.probably you can save some money.

Please ask your friend who might give you some their opions.