Danco Faucet Cartridge - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Put the large part of the spring into the plastic or rubber washer first, then insert into faucet. I use a little of petrolem jelly for easy instlation.

you have to disassemble your old faucet by using "Wrenches". than reassemble the new one

Thae stem you got that said hot/cold were designed to fit old style cross handle faucets. So both hot and cold turned the same way. If the cold side you are replacing turns the opposite direction then you will need to get a cold stem. Danco does make them. Ask the retailer where you purchased the H/C stem. I hope this helps..

change cold cartridge call danco if you can

If the new parts don't resemble the old ones
they shouldn't be used,your wasting your time.

Take the old parts to a quality plumbing store
where the pros go and get the correct help
and parts

first off, put the spring in the faucet big end down. then put the black rubber boot seal in next and push it into place. Then place the Stem in but be sure to line up the notches before you screw it all down. I hope the will help you....

Is it brass, stainless, plastic or rubber? I think a stainless one might be for the knob screw, I don't think there is one inside, it might just have fallen into the pack. We get weird stuff all the time that doesn't belong. Hope this helps.

you could try some wd40 releasing spray and a decent tap spanner

wrong stem.. the body of cartridge where the o ring seats into the body of the faucet needs to go all the way down.. try looking at new ong very carefully because they are almost identical except for this

While there are several cartridges that look similiar to what you have posted, Danco it self is an aftermarket parts replacement business. From my point of observation, your posted pic is of a Delta stem which visually has some distinctive attributes. Most every thing Danco makes is a copy or OEM replacement part packaged under their name.

Danco is an after market faucet parts company that recreates parts cheap for hardware supply chains and such. You would be ahead to try and find the brand of faucet you are trying to repair and get OEM parts. They will probably cost a little more, but will hold up a lot better. I hope this helps.

Danco is an aftermarket supplier of plumbing repair parts for almost all major brands. Look for a danco part that looks like the part you need then check the "compatible with" list on the package.

#1 THE FAT PART OF YOUR SPRING GOES INSIDE THE FAUCET ,AND SIT ON THE VALVE BODY(SEAT)
#2 THE LITTLE BLACK WASHER SIT ON TOP OF YOUR SPRING
#3 PUSH THE STEMS IN THE CORRECT SIDES HOT ON LEFT.CAUTION THERE IS USUALLY NOTCHES ON THE SIDES OF THE STEMS TO HELP YOU ALIGN THEM IN THE VALVE BODY,
4 PUT THE NUT BACK ON ,TIGHEN SLIGHTLY,TURN ON THE WATER TO CHECK ,IF OK RE INSTALL YOUE HANDLES

Most of those have a quarter turn plastic pie section at the top of the stem. It reverses for right or left (cold or hot) faucets. Turn off the water supplies, remove the top of the faucet and handles, put the pie shaped sections on opposite sides, reinstall the handles and turn the water supplies back on.

Each manufacturer has a different size shower spout. As long as the fitting doesn't leak, put a flange up against the wall and if needed, use calking to fill the space. This is an aesthetic issue only.

Is this a question?

check out this http://www.fixya.com/support/t24874427-way_correct_install_7s_10d_danco_delta#solution-section

The issue might be the tub diverter spout. Most such do not seal well. It is a matter of jiggling the spout knob. It should seal better with a little experimenting.

Umm, yeah I think so....

Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).