KitchenAid KEMC377K Convection / Microwave Oven - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams here.

You can download Kitchenaid, Whirlpool, and Maytag owner's manuals and installation instructions here.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

see this causes and fix it. Read your instr.manual for codes. God bless youF2---Touch Panel Failure Check connections, Replace ControlF2--Shorted thermal sensor, will occur if a shorted thermal sensor is detected continuously over 5 seconds on convection, combination or roast cooking. Check oven temperature sensor for continuity. Replace if zero or infinite ohms.

i suggest you go to wal mart and purchase another one after you check your power outlet with another item before you do replace it or try plugging it in else wjere if none of the suggested things i have said works, i suspect its dead, i know of no one who repairs the things,, due to there usually throw away cheap made to start with,, good luck..

Most likely the switch that senses whether or not the door is closed is either out of adjustment, meaning when the door closes it doesn't physically make the switch contacts close, or the switch is defective. If you can physically find the switch you can "trick" it by holding it closed with a piece of tape. If that works then the switch is simply out of adjustment. If that doesn't work then you can short together the two wires going to the switch which simulates the closed internal contacts of the switch. If that works your switch has failed. If neither works then you may have a broken switch wire or solder joint where the switch inputs it's signal to a circuit board. If it is a bad circuit board you may spend the same amout of money replacing the board as you would buying a new microwave. Please be careful with theses test procedures and remember dealing with electricity can be a shocking experience! Good luck.

That is extremely dangerous, from your decription something went wrong with the keypad control board and possibily one of the door switches malfunctioned and the fact the magnetron was arcing did not trigger the fail safe systems indicates a design flaw in the system. I would demand a brand new microwave with a model that has a great safety record.

I would replace the racks, when it becomes rusty green it is time to get rid of the old and bring in the new.

This is a issue with the way the water is moving & or heating in the unit. There should be a tech mini manual behind the motor kick panel. The manual describs the failure and it's correction. Depending the the model year & run / revision code, this error could be caused by low water level, a bad thermistor, the control board not sensing inputs, bad heater or door interlock switch issues. attached is a couple of help sheets. They are general in scope.

If there is no power and you have checked the wall receptical where it plugs in, then it has blown a fuse inside the microwave oven. Because there are lethal voltages that will cause death I suggest a qualified repairman to assess the item.

The problem is one of the door switches has failed, usually caused by food partical buildup, switch must be replaced for normal operation.

The problem may be in the door latch switch, they act as part of the protection system, and should checked quickly for any other potential problems

have you had a look here yet ?http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/manuals/device/convection_oven.htmlgood luck

Hello there and welcome to fixya This is a fairly common issue with microwaves Normally the issue that you are dealing with is that the dor switch has went bad or the electrical wiring may be getting loose so what i would do is first remove the outer shell of the microwavethen get to the door switch and find the wires that are going from it to the connection poing then make a note of where the wires are connected at then remove the wires and test using ohm meter set at the lowest setting you should be getting a ol reading when the door is open then shut the door and you should show a little bit of continuity when the door is shut something like 020 or something like that however if it does not move or the numbers are really high then it should be replaced ok I have posted a link here for you to follow on how to test it and several other parts ok http://www.ApplianceRepairLesson.com

Hello, the clicking sound is as a result of bulged capacitor. One or more capacitors on the power supply board inside the unit is bulged, that's why you are hearing the clicking sound. Have the power supply board check and the cause of the porblem will be revealed. Good luck.

It is likely a bad door switch or mount. See the help file here.On some models, the door switches, fuses, and TCOs / thermal cutouts / thermostats must be checked, too. See photo below.There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit - behind the back, behind the control panel, or hidden on the left side behind the grille - which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. This model is inverter-based, so it does not use the larger, exposed capacitor that transformer-based models do. It uses one or more small capacitors hidden on the inverter board.As long as the high voltage section was not energized within about a half-hour of disassembly, and one does not contact the high voltage connections, there's really no need to discharge high voltage capacitors.They have built-in bleeder resistors that bleed off the charge in seconds. But there is that one in a zillion chance the resistor inside is defective, etc. The shock from stored DC high voltage isn't what hurts you. What hurts is getting sliced up by the sharp metal chassis when you reflexively pull back your hand after the shock.I'm also curious as to what problem you're troubleshooting.We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

The sensor errors are probably just from opening the door and interrupting the sensor cook cycle.By the way, you should always press "Stop" before opening the door of a running microwave. Otherwise, the door switches will prematurely fail.I would first check the door switches and their mounts. See this help file.You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components. You can also download manuals, installations info, and parts lists here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screw(s) you need to remove.On some models the handle needs to be turned gently. Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done. In some cases, you then have to gently rotate the handle to unlock it. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

First of all, thank you very much for choosing FIXYA today for your online technical support needs. Here is a direct link to the ONLINE USER'S MANUAL for the KITCHENAID Microwave Model KHMS155L which was the closest model available to the one you quoted:http://www.kitchenaid.ca/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%208184950.pdf To view the Owner's Manual with Operating Instructions just use your mouse to click on the link, which is the underlined and blue highlighted text just above. This will open a new web browser page automatically for you and allow you to view the information at the website indicated and the contents of the Owner's Manual. You may need ADOBE READER installed on your computer to read PDF documents, although many computers already have this type of utility pre-installed. You can download this free at WWW.ADOBE.COM if necessary. Click on the DOWNLOAD ADOBE READER button on right side of the ADOBE home page when you get there, then follow the onscreen instructions to install the software on your computer.See page 6 of the manual for detailed instructions and illustrations on the use and care of the cooking rack fitted on your unit. I truly hope that was helpful to you. Good luck and take care. Joe.

We have many of these schematics, but we would need the full model number with any suffix in order to provide you with free assistance.

It is usually found on a tag located inside the cooking cavity or around the door frame or controller frame.

Since FixYa is still not notifying us when you respond to clarification requests, you will have to post a new help request with your model number and symptoms / questions.

Or feel free to contact us directly here for free help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.