Leviton 003-1755-W Three Rocker Switches - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#triple Triple switch wiring with neutral in box and neutral in light fixture Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Almost! the black screw is the "common" so the hot wire or the colored wire (usually black or red) bringing power in goes on to the black screw and all white wires (neutral) get connected together. you need to verify which wire has constant power when all wires are disconnected and separated first. *White wires all connected together separate of the switch green screw = ground or bare wire black screw = hot wire/ wire with constant power silver screws = (switched terminals) black or colored wire from each device being powered (eg. light) per screw

depenns on your wattage thhn 12-14 gauge would be safer

1) Look at screw color.
New device has brass screws on one side, and 1 silver screw for each switch located on other side of device.
Hot wire goes to brass screw.
Wire to fan goes to one silver screw
Wire to light goes to another silver screw.
Wire to heater goes to another silver screw.

If you do not have a wire for each individual Load, then you will have to add wiring.

2) Electricians don't guess, they test.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire.
Hot wire connects to brass-colored screw.
If any wires on old switch was connected to same Hot wire, then also connect that wire to brass-colored screws.

Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to each other wire in box, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire will NOT connect to this switching device.
Next, connect one of the remaining wires to a silver screw.
Turn power ON.
Flip switch to see what Load that wire controls.
By process of elimination, add wires to each silver screw and test each by flipping switch.
Breaker will trip if you connect Neutral to silver screw.

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First of all, the black wire is the hot supply. Next, the blacks to the loads should be connected to the black supply when the switch is "on".
Last, the whites are all neutral (sort of a common). Usually the switch is marked "black", "white" or the screws are dark for black and light for white.

your common will be your hot wire

Switch will have a commom terminal that the hot wire connects to.
The other three terminals are for the devices -- light, fan and other device.

The white wires should be the grounded wire returns for the circuits unless they are identified by color tape to be hot line side of power.

Be careful of the grounded side of circuit, can shock or kill, treat all wires as being energised. If you are not sure, use a electrical tester,
or get help.

Well you have to make sure of three things with three way switches...where your power comes in, where your power goes out, and that your travelers are not mixed up. Lets talk about a normal three way circuit. Power comes in to your first switch. You attach your power wire to the common terminal, usually a different color than the other terminals. The other two are your travelers, if your switches work partially you probably have these mixed up. The color traveler you have on one switch terminal has to go on the exact terminal on the other switch. Also check that your neutral is not swapped with a traveler, this will cause your eyes not to light. In between switches there is most of the time three wire cable (2 travelers and a neutral---while two wire cable is used before the switches and after it going to the light). The power then goes out of the common terminal of your second switch. If all wiring is good, I would take your switches out and check them with a continuity tester to see if they are bad. Check continuity on each switch between the common and each traveler terminal.

No, all combo switches arel one-way single pole type

In a situation like this , If the switches are new, then the wiring has gotten messed up. If they are old installation, then it sounds like a loose or broken wire in one of the switch boxes. check the sketches for correct wiring, making sure that the travellers between the switches are on the brass colored screws .. and check all wire nut connections and scrwew connections to be sure that all wwires are secure in their connections.

Any wire that is colored is hot, except for green and white, which is ground and neutral, If you have a line coming in to your switch, and 3 loads going out, red, brown, black, then those should be the 3 lights. The white wire will be connected to white, and the green to ground. If you don't have 4 colored wires, then you have 1 switch too many. Let me know if this is making sense.

I can help, but I need a lot more specific info. Please use these naming conventions to describe what you have:
G1, G2 -- the two gangs of 4 switches each G1S1 - the first switch in gang 1 L1 - light, appliance or outlet number 1
Describe how each light is controlled as follows: L1 - G1S1 & G2S1 (one light controlled by a pair of 3-way switches) L2,L3 - G1S2 (assumes a normal switch controlling two lights) etc. for all of the L's presently controlled by all 8 switches
Then describe what you want the 6 new switches to operate.

Usually the Feed Wire, the "Active" goes to the Middle "Pole" "Contact" of the switch, the other two outer "Poles" or "Contacts" of that switch, go to the "Circuit(s)" Then activating the switch removes power from one side and transfers it to the other. In this way of wiring, One Circuit is "Always ON" and the Other is "Always OFF" until the switch is "Toggled" then it swaps the Power over to the "Other" circuit. The neutral wire, or - negative is simply used as a "Common".

remove white switch one and connect to incoming white ground--all whites should be connected [hooked] together these are grounds-- switch 1 black from fan ,leave switch 2 red from fan ,switch 3 vanity black

You never hood the neutral to the switch. The neutrals are always tied together and pushed back into the box. You only hook the line (power) & load (light) to the switch. Of course you also hook the ground to the switch.

Ok,That is 3 switches in one,You have all the wires on the post correctly? You just need to tighten them down and install into the wall box.If you are not sure of the wiring,Post details of the 3 items to be controlled by the switches and the wires in the box(How many and what color) and a wiring diagram can be provided.

You parallel the contacts then either one or both will turn it on. Both have to be off for the fan to stop.

A Leviton DHC receiver device can look like any other switch or receptacle so if you didn't install it or not provided a map then you'll need to locate it.

Likely the wall switch that originally controlled the light was replaced with DHC device and paired with the 16400 at another location. If you can't identify it, then removing face plates and devices may be the only practical method to locate it.

If your not comfortable with removing devices safely, hire an electrician.

https://www.mc-mc.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/Decora_6375_Catalog.pdf

It's two single pole switches with a removable jumper on one side. With jumper intact, you connect the hot feed to a either screw of the jumper which I belive are brass colored screws.

Then the two induvidual switch poles are the silver screws. Connect fan motor to one and fan light to the other.

If that doesnt work for you, take a picture of the switch and connections and another of wires in fan box and post here.