20 Most Recent Whirlpool WED94HEAW Duet 10 Cycle Front-Load Electric Dryer With 7.4 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Burrs? Where? Inside the drum? I would use a Dremel Motor Tool with a polishing or buffing wheel.

Either your mister (mistor? mist-er?) is working overtime, or else your dryer vent is clogged.

Yes, there are a couple of fuses inside your dryer, but they don't look like normal, common, household or electronic fuses. Usually one fuese will interrupt the heater circuit, while another one will kill power to the whole dryer.

You may have a loose (disconnected) wire that is supposed to go to your sensor bars.

Should just remove the screws and the lock and flip them over. Generally very easy and quick

it can be replaced but the new one will look just like in a few weeks anyway. Its just thin sheet steel uncoated and the heat comes right through that vent that is why it looks like that as far as rough edges just use a piece of sand paper or emory board or steel wool and rub it smooth. suff gets caught on the grate and the heat can burn it all the black is lint that melted on it but a new one look just like it in like i said a few weeks but to be safe and make sure its not getting to hot get a thermometer and check the temperature during low heat and high heat drying. low around 135f and high around 160f if it goes up over 170 there is a problem you may want a pro to check the unit.

Broken belt.

Depending on your level and ability, it's not really very hard to replace. Heres a YouTube video describing how to do this.

https://youtu.be/GzYmoS9brMY

Circuit breaker? Do you mean the main RCD/ELCB or the MCB (micro circuit breaker) protecting the circuit. The MCB is the modern replacement for a fuse... If it is the main RCD that is tripping it indicates a current leakage to ground that might be in the power outlet or coincidentally in both appliances. If the appliances work ok on other circuits the fault is likely with the power outlet. If it is the MCB that is tripping and the appliances work ok in other circuits, it indicates the MCB might be faulty.

you can google your question for answer , to this or any other question. It is 220Volt AC

is it 220? if so the 2 black wires need to be switched

fixya doesnt sell products

It probably isn't shutting off because either the thermostat isn't working or the computer isn't switching it off because it is faulty or isn't receiving temperature information from the sensor in the wash tub...

Depending on the year, the f1 code may be a control board failure code. Board can be replaced or in my case a 15 or so minute fix by soldering one of the blown out solder joints on the board. If you decide to check the board yourself, unplug the unit before disassembling. If it is the solder joint it will be very evident which one has fried once you take the board out.

Depending on the year, the F1 code is a control board fault. If the dryer does not start (clicking noise heard but drum does not start) it may be a solder joint on the board has cooked. If you are handy it is a 15-20 minute fix.

Replace the thermal fuse . A small white plastic piece on the blower housing with 2 wires going to it .

This may seem like a silly question, but have you checked the vent. If it is clogged or blocked, the sensor is going to prevent the element from coming on.

Loosen all the screws and try it again.

There are two thermistors (thermal sensors) in this dryer; one is the outlet thermistor located on the blower housing and the other is the inlet thermistor located on the heating element housing as an integral part of the high-limit thermostat.



These thermistors are negative coefficient type and monitors the dryer temperature on their locations according to their resistance which varies inversely with the temperature. The resistance drops as the temperature rises and rises as temperature drops.

One or both of the thermistors has an open connection or high resistance which makes the electronic control board thinks that the dryer temperature is low no matter how high it is. The electronic control board then doesn't cycle the heater relay and continue to turn on the heating element. The dryer temperature continues to rise and this blows the thermal fuse.

Make sure the thermistors are connected snugly. Remember that loose or open connection means high (infinite) resistance which makes the electronic control thinks of low dryer temperature. Measure the resistance of each thermistor then refer to the tables below. Replace the thermistor if the resistance reading doesn't comply with the table.



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You could have a broken belt. 5his unit has a belt switch if the belt is broken it won't run.

Sounds like the control switch is bad. You should be able to find one on ebay, and a video on how to replace it on "you tube".