Top 20 Kohler K-3386-0 Rialto one-piece round-front toilet with seat and left-hand Questions & Answers

You are going to have to replace the entire seat more than likely. Never seen one that you could replace those stand off's. Hope this helps!

your nearest plumbing supply house...or try lowes

Save that valve... ! Use a fluidmaster (diaphram) part #242 as a replacement substitute!! Easier than most pill bottles... !!! (turn off the water) The valve seems to be very thin plastic but mine lasted 20 years before needing a new diaphram. I cold hear the water going (seep. seep, seep))... and changed the flapper valve... Wrong! I actually bought the new white plastic one to experiment on... but never got that far... Great price ($26) from Amzn (new spare... still in box) The white VALVE (right) end of the 1068030 twists off easier ... over the top (clockwise: less than 1/8 turn... there is a little white lock bar on the very back that has to be pressed in to allow rotation). Ignore the (blue) float lever... you wont be turning anything that far. The expensive & unavailable KOHLER diaphram can be substituted with a $2 FLUIDMASTER #242 diaphram... available everywhere... Home Depot, ACE, General Plumbing Supply... (Amazon = $4 +/- shipping, (local "dealer" had nothing in stock... of course)). Kohler.com ships for a whole lot more! Sadly... THAT very SAME FLUIDMASTER #242 will also fit in the "Kohler 703" valve everybody seems to be throwing away (the easiest valve I have ever repaired). The GRAY "703" valve seems to be very thin plastic but mine lasted 20 years before needing a new diaphram. That is a hard twist 1/8 turn: counter-clockwise... same #242 diaphram... 5 minute job! Six minutes if you hold a cup over the valve and rinse it out like you are supposed to do...

You just need to slide the arms of the flapper while rotating away and upwards off the bars; the arms are flexible so they pull away quite easily.

There are some illustrated installation instructions on the Kohler site that may be helpful.

Go to: http://helptopics.us.kohler.com/ics/support/default.asp?deptID=5712

On the left side menu click on Bathroom Fixtures; click on Toilets, click on next under the questions to move to question 18, How Do I Install the 84995 Flapper?

My toilet is running, how do I fix it? To solve this problem, you'll want to ask the following questions:

1. Is water running into the overflow tube? If so, lower/adjust the float valve. By doing this it will float higher closing the inlet valve.
2. Is the chain too slack or too tight? Make sure the chain has only 1-2 beads of slack.
3. Has the water in the home or surrounding area been recently shut off for some reason? This could cause debris to come up through the water pipes and settle into the diaphragm seal of the fill valve. Flush out the diaphragm seal.

This is not an unusal problem; here is a video that may provide more assistance:

Here's an idea----If the hinge piece is plastic, cut it away to expose a bit of the bolt and use vise grips and pull. Maybe put a thin metal plate next to the bolt so you can pry up on the vise grip. Or maybe you can get a grip on the hinge itself with the vise grips. The insert is going to be plastic, so if you can get a grip this should work. Or you might try drilling a small hole in the hinge piece very close to the bolt so you can get some super glue down in there to lock the insert is place. Hmmmm, this might be a bad idea unless you have a hypodermic needle and bolt is not plastic. good luck!

Kohler will try to sell you $46 anchor bolt kit 84999 & also there special tool. You should expect that for a $400 toilet.

Try this instead:
1. Use 1/8" drill bit and drill and drill around the bolt until the anchor material can be removed.
2. Carefully clean hole with 11/32 drill to remove all remaining acchor material.
3. Go local hardware store & buy a 10 - 32 3/8"X3/4" rubber expansion plug (make certain threaded part is brass & has shoulder on 1 end), a 10 - 32X1.5" Phillips bolt and couple of small fender washers fit the seat.(about $4 for 2)
4. Assemble carefully not to over tighten and crack the porcelain.

Hope it helps

Take lid off and check that the fill tube is in place. If so flush with lid off to see were the water is squirting from, be prepared to clean up water...If you can, do a slight flush. If there is water coming from any where but the bottom of fill valve and the fill tube you may need to replace the fill valve. In my experience, the fill tube is dissconected.

For Diagram
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/attachments/plumbing/19906d1242687133-shut-off-valve-under-toilet-doesnt-work-fluidmaster-20ballcock.gif

Try a plumber supply house...where are you located?

. Check out this link for a few troubleshooting ideas.
http://www.askthebuilder.com/B332_Toilet_Repair_Instructions_for_10_Common_Problems_.shtml

The flush seal is the rubber gasket between the tank and the bowl. You do not have one. So I am guessing you mean the wax ring on the floor?? They usually only get replaced when the toilet is changed, unless you spring a leak. Or are you talking about the flapper inside the tank that holds the water till the flush lever is pulled? Get a new flapper, if it is just the flapper you need, otherwise you will have to buy the whole thing, all these parts are available at the hardware store. I think it is held on by a couple screws in there, might just be a press fit, we don't see too many one piece toilets. And the wax ring is about $2, but the toilet has to be unbolted from the floor and water disconnected, clean off the old wax, put on the new ring, smoosh it back down and bolt it back it up. Don't for get the water line. Check to make sure you have no leaks. Hope this helps.

First things first, remove the fill valve, and the flush handle mechanism. This will give you plenty of room to work with the flush valve. Before installing flush valve lubricate tabs with plumbers grease. Now put on a pair of work gloves, pushed down very hard and turn the tabs should slide easy because of the grease. Remember do not alter the gasket, the gasket needs to be compressed to do its job. I know removing the fill valve and the flush handle seems like a pain, but there is no way to get your hands in the proper position to install the flush valve assembly.

Roberta3fan could be giving bad advice based on experience with other toilets. This does not seem to be an option for this toilet design. I am in a similar situation and it appears that the nut (and it is a metal bolt) is not what you would expect. Here is a picture of the anchor kit for this toilet seat: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/kohler-anchorkit-84999.jpg I am going to assume that the sleave that should be engaging the bolt is cross threaded and try to grab it with a pair of vice grips. I'll let you know if it works.

There is clips where the bolts should be .Flip the clips up grab hold of the seat and pull it strait out towards the front of the toilet.

cut the head off from top use a dremel ,wizard or drill with a cut off wheel or sawsall use very carefully and support nut so it doesnt rattle and crack porcelain

If you are talking about the seat...Hinge caps snap open to release and the seat pulls forward to remove.

There is either a screw on the top of the fluidmaster, or the float can be screwed out further. If it has a screw on top of the fluidmaster, screw it in to make the valve shut off earlier. Keep adjusting and flushing until it shuts off before it overflows. Hope this helps...

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break away pieces of the seat and cut from above. I've done it and it is a pain, but works.

I have never heard of a toilet that needs an electronic reset, but it appears it is as simple as just disconnecting the power for 10 minutes. It does sound though are yours has a failing flush valve. I managed an airport lounge and we had dozens of electronic toilets and we had to keep a box of spares for them and just put new parts in them including complete control boards. We also kept a box of batteries. https://www.google.com/search?q=kohler+hatbox+toilet+factory+reset ..