20 Most Recent Mr. Coffee ECMP40 Espresso Machine Questions & Answers

im having the same issue with mine..someone please adive..thank yo

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Mar 09, 2014

thier is a puddle of water that leaks out of the bottom of machine after i brew my expresso

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Mar 19, 2013

After 8-10 months or so, my Mr Coffee ECMP50 died too. Both lights were blinking. The power light and the ready light were both blinking, not the buttons. Thankfully, this was an easy fix for my machine. The machine heats water with a heating block that is controlled with a thermisistor. For safety, the power to the heating coil goes through a Sefuse thermofuse on either lead. Thus, if the machine malfunctions and the heating block heats continuously, the fuses will cut the power when the temperature goes too high. In my case, the thermisistor was fine, and replacing the fuses solved the problem. I think the microcontroller senses a failure to increase temperature and blinks to show an error condition.

Here's how I repaired mine, keep in mind there is life and property threatening risks in opening your machine, and that the fault is caused by a safety fuse, which should never be bypassed or altered.

For dissassembly, you'll need to start out by taking the bottom panel off. This has two saftey screws. You can easily get a safety screw bit set at Harbor Freight or maybe NAPA. Some of the screws are also under the rubber feet. Pulling it off, you'll need to cut a plumbers tie and disconnect the drain tube. Next, you'll need to remove the top cover. There are screws around the outer underside where the espresso head is, and there are three screws way down inside. You'll need a really long small philips screwdriver for those. The side knob does pull straight off and isn't connected to anything underneath; it may require some jiggering with to get it off. If you need to get the button panel off to get the top off, there are two screws under the label. Just poke right through. It's a plastic panel and not connected to the lights. The metal is separate and doesn't need to come off.

Once you get the top off, the heating block is located in the center of the rear, hanging from a metal plate held in by four screws. All of the wire connectors have a rubber cover and a locking mechanism that you'll have to squeeze a button to remove the wires. You'll also need to disconnect one of the plastic hoses from the bottom. It is held in by a split pin inside a small plastic block.

On the side of the heating block are two metal plates securing the wires. These are clamping the safety fuses to the block. I just removed the plates, slid back the insulation, chopped out the old fuses, and put in new ones. Soldering them in will blow them, so wire crimps are used. The fuses are carried by Radio Shack in the drawer with regular overcurrent fuses where they keep electrical components. Keep in mind that different fuses for different temperatures are available. Mine was 190 C, 10A. Never use a higher rated fuse, as this is a safety device!

You might test your machine before reassembling it in order to check that the thermisistor isn't gone too. You can safely test it with a ohmmeter. It should read around 110K +- 10K. If you hit it with some ice, it should increase in resistance. Heat will make it decrease in resistance.

When reassembling, ensure that all the hoses get new plumber's ties to ensure no leaking, and don't forget that drain hose! Remember again, tampering with this may induce leaking next to line voltage electronics making a lethal hazard, or disable safety devices which may start fires!

I would suggest never leaving the machine on while not in use, as it puts wear on the heat block and fuses.

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Jun 16, 2012

Hello, if you click this link or copy and paste it to your browser this will give you the manual for the ecmp50 http://www.mrcoffee.com/Manuals/MANUALS/ECMP50_43_94719442.PDF if you have any further questions or need a different brochure from the manufacturer please message me back. Also if there are no further questions please also remember when our chat has fully concluded to rate how this service has helped in locating the manual that you have requested. By doing this it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future.
Thank you again and Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Dec 27, 2011

This is actually a fairly common problem with many coffee or espresso makers. When both lights are blinking just shut the machine off, wait about 5 seconds and turn it back on. It should work fine. If not, give another shout out.

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Mar 07, 2011

On my machine, the vent from the heating element to the steamer control was clogged. I am a trained professional, do this at your own risk! I did the following because I tried everything else and I knew that the unit was clogged at the aperature from the hot water element tank. Try to unclog it another way before doing this!

1. Unplug from the wall outlet!!! (don't skip this or you might die!)
2. Remove accessories, water holder, bottom tray, etc.
3. Remove the rubber feet and unscrew all of the screws you can find. There are some hard to find screws but it is possible to remove them all with the right screwdrivers. I broke the last screw stud thing on mine because I couldn't find the right tool for that last screw. Once I got it apart, I figured out how to do it. I cant remember now though. Just break it if you want. There are plenty of other screws holding this thing together.
4. Remove the top.
5. Follow the smallest tube to the heating element (looks like a tiny hot water heater).
6. Unbolt the tube fitting at the heating element. You may loosen the other couplers, but dont completely unscrew them, and DO NOT TUG on the small plastic tube. Once you unscrew the brass fitting, take a flashlight and look in the hole that leads into the heating tank. If yours is like mine, it will be clogged with white goo. My goo was from hard water. Take a pipe cleaner and ram it through the goo. Try to get as much goo out as you can, but it is ok to get some down into the tank.
7. Put everything back together carefully. You might want to replace the small O ring at the fitting if it is worn out.
8. Run vinegar through the system, or CLR or some other solvent that can break down the hard water residue. Plug in the unit and flush the system with cleaner but make sure to get it all out. Run alot of clean water through it.

** you might be able to just run CLR or Vinegar or some other cleaner through the system, without disassembly. I am not an expert in these things, please find out what is safe to use before trying it. I am not responsible if you get poisoned!

Hope this helps some!

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Feb 01, 2009

Hi - You can download the manual from the link underlined in blue below:



Please take a moment to rate this solution & let us know if the information given was useful to you - Good Luck!


Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Aug 29, 2008

3 beeps means plugged water line. Take off the bottom of the coffee maker with a small phillips head screwdriver. Use pliers (I used needle nose type) to remove the wire clamps holding on the silicone water tubes to the hot plate. In my case, the water line from the reservoir to the plate was clogged with something I couldn't see until I blew on the hose and it popped out, could have been scale, grounds etc Clean with vinegar. Back in service!

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Jul 19, 2020

I see two problems that you've described.

First, you have a bad empty-reservoir sensor. Mine went out on my first Mr. Coffee within the first month also. The purpose of the sensor is to trigger the beeping to simply let you know when the coffee is done. The coffeemaker would normally work fine otherwise.

Second, you have a bad heating element. This is the core function of your coffeemaker and renders it useless for anything but a nice warming plate.

I recommend replacing the coffeemaker.

In the future, make sure you do not add water to the reservoir unless the coffeemaker has been turned of for at least five minutes. This will help prolong the life of the heating element.

The heating element will naturally degrade over time. But, it can incur sudden damage when the reservoir is refilled with water too soon - while the element is still hot. Because of the simple design, if the coffeemaker is on, then both the warming plate's heating element and the reservoir's heating element are on. So, after a brewing cycle is complete, the reservoir's heating element stays on. Without any in the reservoir to keep it cool, the heating element superheats. So, if water is put in the reservoir while the coffeemaker is on or before the element has adequately cooled, the sudden burst of steam from the water contacting the element can be quite violent.

Mr. Coffee... | Answered on Jun 27, 2020

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