20 Most Recent Briggs and Stratton 073001 2" Portable Gas Powered 5.5 HP Water Pump Questions & Answers

Take the float bowl off and replace the float needle and seat after you make sure every thing is clean. Make sure the float pin is smooth and not rusted and shake the float to make sure and listen to see if there is a hole in it and fuel got in the float. When you put the carb back together with the float side facing you adjust it so it is level when gravity is holding it closed position.

This Briggs & Stratton chart will answer your question. http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine%20Specifications%20Chart_ms3992.pdf

4 possible problems: 1. Was the pump filled with water first. 2. Make very sure that there are no air leaks on the suction hose and connectors. 3. Try less vertical lift on the suction side. It can be increased when primed. 4. Check for blockages or damage to the impeller.

Your water pump is gravity feed type, however you can add a vacuum/pressure pulse type pump. Look here : http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/423/22375/ITEM/Mikuni-Pulse-Fuel-Pump.aspx

This is just an example, there are many styles and capacities of pulse pump. Look on ebay. You will need to be creative and find an way to tap into the crankcase system. Some engines that use pulse pump will get vacuum / pressure from the valve cover area. The pump works with the natural pressure / vacuum created in the crankcase by piston movement. Good luck

If you go to the Briggs & Stratton Website with your full engine No. you should be able to view an illustrated parts list for your engine that may give you the layout for the carb linkage.

You do not need any special tools but you do need a third hand somtimes to complete the job.
Here are the basic steps after you remove the starter from the engine:
Prepair the new starter rope by burning the end to keeping it from fraying and shape it into a point. Use a rag to shape the point because it will be very hot. (about 5 feet of good qualty starter rope size to match existing. It is sold in sizes form about 3.5 to 6.5) Tie a temp knot on the other end of the new rope. Remove the old rope and align the hole in the spool with the hole on the starter cover and practice incerting the rope thru the guide hole on the cover into hole on the spool . This will be the final action after you wind the spool. You should be able to hold the spool and insert the rope thru both holes and tie a knot while holding the spool in a wound state. Once you have mastered incerting the rope thru both holes and tying a knot you are ready to begin.
Wind the spool in the same direction that the spool turns when you pull the rope. You must wind in the correct direction or you may bend the rewind spring out of shape. The spool will begin to tighten as you wind and will eventually stop turning when the spring is fully wound. Once fully wound unwind spool one full turn and stop when hole on spool aligns with hole in cover. Now insert rope as practiced thru both holes and tie knot with free hand or have helping hand. Once knot is tied slowly let spool take rope in untill no more will go in or you reach temp knot. Now tie pull handle and you are done. Good luck

You need too drain your oil and make sure you put the proper amount back in too much and it will shoot oil and smoke...

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/21018/Briggs-And-Stratton-030241-0.html#manual

Had this happen to me. The problem turned out to be a mouse nest inside the gaps around the flywheel(?) assembly that is behind the starter pull cord. I pulled off the starter and saw some mouse crud. I cleared that out and reassembled. Pulled the cord again and heard clunk, snap, and breaking pieces bouncing around. Everything was stuck again. Disassembled again to see some of the plastic blades of the fan snapped and there was a lot more mouse nest jammed in. Spent 2 hours digging out what must have been at least a basketball sized cloud of mouse nest. I had to dig, spin a little by hand, keep digging. Eventually I got it all out and the engine fired up nicely. It seems this design a a lot of wide open spaces that suit mice nicely. Combine that with years of storage with no use and you get an epic mouse nest.

Oil level is too high and thin from fuel. Check for stuck carburetor float or debris in fuel bowl or inlet needle.

It may also happen if the unit was moved and tipped at a severe angle.

Try disconnection oil level sensor. If problem goes away, replace sensor.

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Armature coil needs to be coaxed out, slight tap on the metal base with a screwdriver should take care of this.

Most generators are self energising. Residual magnetism in the armature causes a small output as soon as the alternator is turning at speed and circuitry feeds the small output through the brushgear into the armature to begin the energising cycle until the rated output is reached. As you obtain an output from the stator by "artificially" energising the armature, it is clear there is a fault in the control circuitry. There are wiring diagrams online but they aren't easy to follow...

There are reset breakers on the control panel. If the 110 outlets are GFI protected then the issue could be your cord or appliance. Please try some other type of item (Tool or lamp). If the breaker was over whelmed and tripped the breaker. The breaker is labeled and mounted on the control panel as well. Please write back if there is anything else.

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Then you need fuel! Make sure the gas is turned on. Pull the sparkplug after a few tries and see if it's wet with fuel or smells like it. Thats all a motor needs is spark and fuel! Well air too.

Possible but not likely. Wipe off the excessive oil and try to ascertain where it is leaking. Possibly loose hardware needs tightening or a gasket replaced. Could also be a crankshaft seal.