Sharp R-1481B Microwave Oven - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

First of all check the inside of the cooking area for chips in the paint and burn marks. If there are none then you may repair this unit. Open it up and check the many thermal overloads for open circuit. Then check for burned wires and repair any if found. Then replace the fuse if blown. Then change the magnetron and possibly the capacitor. Also verify that the door closes properly and that the circuit board has no burned components or burned circuit traces. Sometimes the relays stick and need replacing but that would not cause the breaker to trip.

I have a r-1482 model so I don't know how close they will be. The biggest issue I found so far with my particular model, yours my be the same, is the door safety micro switches fail primarily from opening the door while the unit is in the process of cooking which causes them to arc and burn the contacts resulting in premature failure. With an ohm meter, check the resistance of the contacts of each switch individually with the COM terminal lug temporarily removed and ensure the closed resistance is 0 ohms and infinity when the contacts are open. Measure from the COM terminal to the terminal in use either N.O. or N.C., with the switch button NOT depressed the N.O. will be open while the N.C. will be closed and with the button depressed they will be opposite, in other words N.O. will be closed and N.C. will be open. Another thing to check is that the door hooks aren't broken (they activate the safety switches. Should you remove the switch bracket to replace the micro switches, make sure you wire the switches exactly the way they were COM to COM, NC to NC & NO to NO, mount them in the bracket the exact way they were and adjust the bracket so that the switch buttons are just to the point of being fully depressed and no more when the door is fully closed. The micro switches may be different in model numbers but you can sub with a micro switch that has all three COM, NC, NO terminals and only use the terminals in use for the given switch. I used Omron p/n: D3V-16G-1C25-K from Mouser Electronics (800) 346-6873. Since you didn't indicate the control panel was not operational I won't go into that area. I can't say if the timer will count down or not if the micro switches are bad, but it's a possibility, further pointing to the switches. If the control panel or MW tube is bad it's my recommendation to buy a new oven, though you can get new MW tubes, diode & capacitor, it's not worth the shocking experience to the human body, not to mention the MW radiation.Good luck if you still have the oven and decide to take it one step further.

how old is it? if it is old then, it is just wear n tear. time to get another one.

The problem is a shorted relay no the control circuit board.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

We regularly repair such control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid with a one-year guarantee.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

We have the service manual for this model and have uploaded it for you here.

A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it is NOT shorted or burned looking, it's probably fine)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
(continuity can be good even though mag is bad!)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html

You can order Sharp from Encompass here or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

hello the smell is properly from one of the transformers in the oven, if you remove the panel , check the transformers you will see burning marks around it,

www.searspartsdirect.com

Simple screw driver to remove the cover plates on the bottom of the oven and the bulb unscrews. Install a new appliance bulb and your back in business.

We have the full service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

It will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

You will need the free Acrobat Reader to view or print it in case you don't have it already.

It may be the fuse, cavity thermal cutout, or magnetron thermal fuse.

It may also be a blown trace or bad low voltage transformer on the control panel.

We regularly repair such control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week with a one-year guarantee.

If it needs the transformer, that would add $25 to the repair cost.

The best place to order parts for this brand is Encompass (formerly Tritronics).

Or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Accessing some components for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall.

If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted, it's probably okay)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
(even if the magnetron passes these tests, it can still be bad. If you have high voltage and the diode is good, assume the magnetron is bad)

NOTE: FixYa's Web site is currently not notifying us when replies to our Clarification Requests are posted.

So please reply back directly to me with your brand and full model number from the tag in or on the unit for more help or free do-it-yourself tips or an estimate if required.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer

Found the answer by calling a Sharp technician and they said it was the magnetron tube, which is not worth fixing :( Thought I'd pass this on to anyone that has yet to find out.

David
This is a sure sign that the MAGNATRON unit has went out on your oven and will need replaced! (This is what cooks the food!)
Please take a second and rate my response!
Thank You!

behind the MW panel
Unplug the MW
took 2 screws from the top plate than one screw for the panel

All MW has a fuse inside to protect the circuit board
Try to replace the fuse

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.

Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Please feel free to contact me directly if you need more help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

check the micro switches there are 3 of them

The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

This is far less than a replacement circuit board, assuming it's even available anymore.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This often can affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on.

We have full details and critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

When you enter the time then hit START, does the turntable motor come on? If not, then I would suspect the secondary interlock switch, its mount, or its wiring. If so, then it's hard to say, unless there was some miswiring somewhere. The original problem sounded like just a classic bad door switch. At this point I suspect the wires on one of them may not have been reconnected exactly where they were. It does matter. I would suspect the secondary interlock switch, which MAY have white/white and grey/grey wires attached. Also, one of the switch mounts may have a broken tab that makes the switch move so it's not getting activated. At our site, we have the service manual for the R1830, which is similar to the R1480-series. We have that plus *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

I answered this personally via e-mail (and I do not mind peopke writing me personally). I think you may have a broken tab which holds the door latch head spring in place.

The problem is a bad light socket or the door switch. If you know how to do a continuity check with the power cable unplugged then thats what needs to be checked. Unplug microwave.. Take a meter lead insert it into the socket to the light bulb Follow that wire to where it goes as it should go to one of the switches on the door assy. Now these switchs can be tricky so be carefull when you check them as whith the door open theres a terminal that says N.O. that means normally open as when the doors open. The other lead should say on the door switch N.C., that means normally closed so you now that if the wire coming from the light bulb goes to a switch point on the door says N.C. the it shoud read a short from the light bulb socket to both the common and the N.O. side of the switch. If it dosent then the switch is bad. Now on a rare accation the socket itself is bad but thats easy to look at and see if its all corroded and stuff. If this dosent help lets us know and we can assit ya more and by all means if you dont know what im talking about PLEASE dont attempt to trouble shoot this as it could cause bodily harm!! Good Luck