20 Most Recent Rinnai Webstone The isolator EXP tankless water heater Service Valves WRIK Questions & Answers

12 - Flame Failure or Poor Ground

1. Immediate code 12 is usually a defective gas valve, power supply problem, or defective fan motor wiring harness.

2. If code 12 occurs after a few seconds it indicates that proper operation was established, but then stopped unexpectedly.

3. Verify that fuel is being supplied to the unit.

4. Check for proper electrical ground. Unit must use a grounded power supply.

5. Check for flue blockage on inlet or exhaust.

http://www.foreverhotwater.com/service-codes.php

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The circuit breaker keeps getting thrown yes? Alright then, you may have a bad element inside the water tank. If you don't know what a circuit breaker is then please call a plumber and do not go near the water heater as it may be a danger to your well being. However, if you do know, then go out there and throw the breaker to the water heater. If you are not sure about this or can not test the voltage at the water heater then do not proceed. However if you are sure, then take off the little covers from the side of the tank and look at the insulation as it may appear moist or wet. There is a heating element inside the tank which can break off, cause electrical shortout and allow water to leak out into the insulation. How to Fix: Shut off the cold water supply at the top of the water heater, then go to the nearest sink and turn on the hot water. There should be no water pressure if you shut the supply valve going into the tank. Now then, leave the hot water turned on at the sink as this will provide a vent for draining the water from your water heater. At the water heater there is a small valve at the bottom which when opened will drain the entire volume of the tank. I suggest that you find and connect a hose to this valve prior to opening it so that the escaping water goes outside rather than on your floor or you could just call servpro and let er rip. Either way, while the tank is draining look on the side of the water heater and find out if it is 240vac or 120vac and write this down. Now look to find the wattage of your heating elements. It might be 1500 watts, 4500 watts or 5500 watts, write down the wattage indicated for the heating element you are about to replace. Write down the brand and the model number along with the voltage and element wattage and go to your local hardware store. Ask one of the older guys (not the kid in electronics) if they would help you select the proper heating element for your make/model and also ask if you need an element wrench to install the heating element which you are purchasing. If the answer is yes, then get that to as you will be needing one very soon. Back home your tank should have drained completely. Now on the face of the old element will be two wires; remove them. Take your nifty little element wrench that you just bought and remove the old element. You will probably be amazed to find that the old element is like, in two pieces, and that's because the rest of it has fallen off inside the tank. If you can retrieve the part left in the tank then do so however it will not be a problem if you can not. Disregard the white hard water build up inside of the tank unless you have the time and capacity to dig all of it out through that little hole. Although, you may need to wallow it out a tad so that the new heating element can fit inside. The new one will replace just as the old one was removed and do not over tighten (it just needs to be snug not twisted off). Replace the two wires; either way don't matter. Then shut the drain valve and open up the water supply on top. Your hot water tap in the nearest sink should still be turned on and now you should hear the air escaping from inside the water heater tank as it is being filled with acid. No just kidding, it is filling with cold water. When the tank is full, water will run from the tap and only then may you shut off the tap. Now with the tank full and the new heating element wired up to the thermostat you can throw the circuit breaker back on. Congrats. Within in 30 mins you will either have very hot water or you will hear an explosion louder than anything you have ever heard in your life. As long as you followed the filling the tank till the water runs out your faucet bit, you should be good to go; go take a bath that is.

Its A Possibility The Left Over Water In The Hot Is Frozen. If Your Line Is Exposed Outside Somewhere It Can Easily Freeze Up. Turn On The Hot Water Everywhere In The House And If Accessible Check The Lines To See Where The Warmth Ends. You Can Leave One Off Over Night In Hopes That It Will Eventually Defrost.

You should not have to flush unless the code LC comes up. but here is the flushing diagram.

Get second opinion on water quality and electrical grounding of pipes:http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/Geneh If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Single-handle faucet cartridge that leaks can cause tankless not to function. Check for crossover or cross connection:http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.htmlCut losses from owning tankless computer that heats water. Go to Lowes and buy new tank-type gas water heater for $390 and have hot water right quick with less maintenance and own a product that homeowner can repair themselves.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.htmlOtherwise call service technician who is qualified to work on tankless computer.Genen If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

We had the same problem - the hot water would only be hot for 3 -5 minutes and shut off, then we had to turn the water off, wait a few minutes, and do it again. VERY FRUSTRATING.

Soution: The Rinnai serviceman showed me the heat-exchanger blower/fan: It was clogged with dust and moths.

Another clue: Our Rinnai was extremely noisy when the heat came on. After the fan was cleaned and replaced, it is nearly silent.

If you are reasonably mechanically inclined:
TURN THE BREAKER / POWER OFF to the unit.

The blower-fan is located in the lower central area of the unit (at least on our unit). If you draw imaginary north-south, east-west lines through the center of the unit, the fan is in the lower-left quadrant. There is a spring clamp securing the black rubber accordian-like tube to the fan. There are two screws that secure the fan to the unit. there are two plugs that connect to the fan, as well as a third air-flow sensor that should be removed. then you can look at the fan unit, as well as the grill on the underside of the heat-exchanger that should be cleaned.

My thought was to go out and get a simple bug-screen, and place it over the air-input outlet vent going outside, but the repair guy said that although it may sound good, if that screen ever gets clogged, or reduces airflow to the Rinnai, then the unit will work harder, or even shut off, giving the same problem. Also - the Rinnai pipe going outside is a pipe within a pipe - so its both inlet and outlet air.

Bad PC board.Bad sensor.Don't buy a tankless because the problems can be endless.Before blaming the tankless however.Perform the yearly required maintenance on burnerDelime the unit.http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch_Descaling-heat-exchanger.pdfRemove and clean aerators, replace low-flow shower heads with large water-wasting shower heads. IMPORTANT check all your single-handle faucets for crossover.Water getting cool after 15 minutes could be bad cartridge on another faucet.http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.htmlhttp://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/No-Error-Code.pdf If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Did service man clean combustion parts and check for loose wires, proper venting etc?In other words, is the tankless up-to-date on yearly required maintenance?Did you check outlet for power?Is the unit properly grounded?Is the unit vented properly, and set for correct altitude?Is the thermostat set too high?What does the manual say about maintenance?It certainly says to clean water filter frequently, and clean combustion parts yearly, and bleed air from gas line, and delime yearly.Is your water heater exposed to more than 11 grains hardness in water that will cause failure due to clogged parts?Does service man have a service manual for your specific water heater?Does anyone have a service manual for your water heater? Probably not, which means service man will be guessing at one thing and then guessing at the next thing.Problem could be PC board failure.Similar to failed motherboard on computer.Let's be frank:Do you want the cheapest solution?Or do you want to chase around trying to find why a complex computer chip connected to electric outlet, electric sensors, gas valve, water valve, water line, gas line, and gas burner with vent to outside has decided to stop working?Cheap solution, Buy tank-type gas water heater for $350 at local box store. Just get a simple one off the shelf. Don't worry about warranty, because it means nothing.Select Whirlpool, AO Smith, American, State, Reliance, Craftmaster, Kenmore because these are made by same company and can be repaired and maintained by homeowner, and service manuals are available, and any plumber knows how to fix em.. Avoid Rheem, Ruud, Richmond, GE, for all same reasons except in reverse.Read the manual, perform the required maintenance.Keep the air intake clean.Install water heater yourself same day, turn up the temperature wait, 1/2 hour for tank-full of hot water, and take hot shower.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If you have tankless electric, it can simply be insulated... but tankless electric are seldom mounted outdoor.Service bulletin says: "the only way of assuring protection is to completely remove the heater during those times the area may experience freezing temperatures.There are tankless with built-in heater for exterior installation.Check your manual, or add a comment with specific model number and maybe I can find the information.Here's why they install tankless outdoors: Because tankless burn more fuel per gallon of hot water. This requires larger gas line and larger vent pipe than typical tank-type gas water heater that is usually installed indoors.They install tankless outdoors, so there is no need for expensive vent pipe, and because there is ample incoming air to support combustion.So if tankless does not have factory-installed internal heater, then the unit can freeze easily when the combustion draws in cold air.Of course you can put heat-tapes on the pipes but the heat exchanger inside will quickly freeze during periods when hot water is not being used, and combustion is not taking place.You can move the tankless installation inside and use correctly-sized vent and intake pipes directly through the wall. This will generally protect tanklesss from freezing if room is heated adequately. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Thaw it out with hot air maybe a hair dryer don.t use flame and hope it did not freeze bad enough to break something.

Good luck