Voxan Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

WELCOME TO FIXYA TECHNICAL SUPPORT,
SURE I'LL HELP YOU, PLS. ASK THE QUERY PROPERLY,


IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE YOU NEED TO ASK.

THANK YOU.

A bucket for soapy water Soap or liquid detergent; automotive cleaners will work Gloves (to keep your hands clean) Bug and tar remover Degreaser and/or engine cleaner A toothbrush WD40 A brush for wheel cleaning Wheel cleaner At least two microfiber or 100% cotton sponges A variety of soft cotton towels and more abrasive rags A chamois cloth for drying

In our perennial quest for HP and torque, the topic of cam timing seems to be missing from the threads thus far posted. Yet, cam timing can have a significant effect on overall engine performance and the mix between HP and torque. Since the HM has only a single cam per cylinder, there isn’t anything we can due to vary the overlap for any given cam, but there is certainly some range of adjustability on how the overall cam timing is set by cylinder. With the stock cams, the timing specs for both cylinders are as follows at 1 mm valve clearance Intake Opening 15° B.T.D.C. Closing 65° A.B.D.C. Exhaust Opening 62° B.B.D.C. Closing 19° A.T.D.C. (Anyone have the specs of for the DP cams?) Certainly degreeing in the cams to spec is a good starting point, but my real question is how might HP and torque be impacted by advancing or retarding cam timing? There’s lots of information on how to degree a cam and people have been doing so since the old flat-head hot rod days, but information on how changing cam timing in and by itself affects overall performance and/or the mix between HP and torque (perhaps held as closely guarded trade secrets by the cam manufacturers +/or tuners).

If your motorcycle has a center stand, use it for long term storage. If you're not riding for several weeks and don't have a center stand, you may want to consider carefully propping up the bike using blocks. Don't do more harm than good by dropping your bike while attempting to prop it up! If done correctly, lifting your motorcycle will alleviate stress on the suspension and tires. Inflate your tires to the maximum recommended pressure will maintain their shape, since cooling temperatures will make the pressurized air contract. If the ground might potentially freeze, try to keep the tires off the ground using wood blocks.

only a handful will work with the motorcycle engine you own. Also different brands (NGK, Bosch, DENSO, Champion, Esc) will work better on different types of engines. As a general rule of thumb, use the sparkplug your manufacturer recommends for your motorcycle (same brand and part number). Unfortunately some spark plugs are very specific to a type of engine and make only for that engine such as the NGK ME8 for $34 per sparkplug, compared to the normal price of $3 per sparkplug.

When checking the oil, get the engine warm (not hot), let is rest for about 10 minutes and then check. This will allow the oil in the engine to flow back into the resevoir.

the 3M protective film works really well, I have it on the nose of my GTI. It will add some sheen, but I highly reccomend it

1.Get your supplies ready, and expose your engine 2.Unscrew the Oil Filler Cap 3.Remove the Oil Drain Plug 4.Remove and Replace the Crush Washer 5.Clean the Oil Drain Plug 6.Remove the Oil Filter 7.Remove and Clean Plastic Mesh Filter 8.Lubricate the O-ring of the New Filter and Attach it to the Engine 9.Motorcycle Oil Change - Replace Oil Drain Plug & Plastic Mesh Filter, Pour Oil 10.Check the Oil Level

Various wrenches. A soft brush, or old toothbrush. An O-ring friendly chain cleaner (if, like most chains, yours is of an o-ring type.) O-ring friendly chain lubricant (again, if applicable.) A new cotter pin (when adjusting the chain tension.) Rags (for wiping grime off the chain.) A rubber mallet (optional.) A rear wheel stand (optional.) A tape measure (optional.

You may want to try a 'color match ' polish.Try your local Detail Shop to get the best suggestion as to what they use.

Hot Plug - has a longer insulator nose length - less heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system - the plug runs at a higher temperature - the plug is more prone to pre-ignition (if greater than 850 degrees C) - NGK BP5ES is hotter than a BP7ES plug. - An overheated plug will be white with brown spots. Cold Plug - has a shorter insulator nose length - more heat is absorbed by the plug and transferred to the cooling system - the plug runs at a lower temperature - the plug is more prone to fouling (if less than 500 degrees C) - NGK BP7ES is cooler than a BP5ES plug. - A fouled plug will be black and sooty.

There are several schools of thought on this. Some say you should change your oil every 3000 miles; others say every 6000 miles is fine. In any case, you should change it every 3 months.

To avoid vibration and accelerated tire wear, it is essential to balance the tire & wheel assembly before use and each time the tire is removed or replaced on the rim. Also, check the rim for any imperfections as they could affect the overall balance

u can take the current ones off by simply heating them to warm the cement then pull...if that doesnt work u could use a razor blade but bake sure that u dont cut anything. you could put the wire around the grip if u want its all up to u.

i wont recomand a use race only tires on public roads. Race tires are constructed in such a way that they are very unstable under normal street riding conditions. These tires also require higher operating temperatures for proper performance. These temperatures cannot be obtained within legal speed limits

wd-40 is good... but it leaves behind a residue that just sucks dust out of the air like magic... the *best* thing I found for chain-lube removal is that orange hand-cleaner stuff... it works best when it's warm. ...it doesn't leave behind a oily film like the wd-40 does... which is a good thing® in my book. The wd-40 is good for metals, but I don't like to use it on painted(or powdercoated) surfaces.

ABSOLUTELY NO SMOKING, SPARKS OR FLAMES AROUND CHARGING BATTERIES. Charging gives off hydrogen and oxygen, which explode if ignited.

If your brake fluid is in need of changing, do so before long-term storage. Similarly, hydraulic clutch fluid should be changed before you store your bike; both systems may suffer failure if moisture gets in. Also make sure your coolant is fresh, as deposits can form from old fluid. For service intervals, consult your owner's manual.

there is no way for fuel to get passed the rings right? So if you filled the head with fuel, it would just work its way down the exhaust pipe and out the back, just like its doing. The only way of getting fuel into the sump is; if you have seriously bad rings (it would be burning oil) OR if its getting through the breather system. I don't even think if the injectors were on full-time, it still wouldn't get into the sump... very strange. Are you sure its not coolant? A serious coolant leak can be completely unnoticeable from the outside, but catastrophic to the inside. __________________

I can't find a diagram. The small potentiometer on the control board likely serves as an adjustable component to fine-tune specific parameters. Here are some possibilities: Voltage Regulation: The potentiometer might control the output voltage. By adjusting it, you can set the desired charging voltage for different battery types (e.g., 6V or 12V). Current Limit Adjustment: It could be used to set the maximum charging current. Adjusting the potentiometer allows you to limit the charging current based on the battery's capacity and condition. Sensitivity or Threshold: Some potentiometers act as sensitivity controls. For example, it might adjust the threshold at which the charger switches between charging and maintenance modes. Setting the Potentiometer: Without the specific circuit diagram or detailed information about your charger, I recommend the following general steps: Observe the Potentiometer: Identify the potentiometer on the control board. Note its position and any markings (if present). Consult the User Manual: Check the user manual or operating instructions. It might provide guidance on adjusting the potentiometer. Trial and Error: If no specific instructions are available, start with the potentiometer set to its mid-position. Gradually adjust it while monitoring the charger's behavior (e.g., charging current, voltage). Observe how the charger responds to changes in the potentiometer setting. Fine-tune it based on your specific battery type and desired charging characteristics. Remember that precise adjustments depend on the charger's design and the battery you're charging.