Motorcycles - Page 5 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the "AIR FUEL" mixture screw adjustment "ONLY" manages your idle and has no effect on any other circuit also any intake leaks must be repaired before the A/F adjustment procedure can be performed otherwise you will never obtain a proper idle and you will waste a lot of time chasing the impossible. The A/F mixture screw's purpose is to fine-tune the fuel charge entering the combustion chamber. The following applies to both 2 and 4 stroke engines:
1. The mixture screw may be sealed at the factory with a Welch Plug please review the following video for removal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAXcksgvDkM
2. The mixture screw manages a range of 3 complete 360-degree counterclockwise turns from the bottom/closed position.
3. The mixture screw should have a spring and o-ring for tension and sealing integrity.
4. Turn the mixture screw clockwise until it gently bottoms out, this makes the fuel charge very lean and the engine should not idle if it does then the pilot/idle jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller.
5. Turn the mixture screw 1 and 1/2 turns counterclockwise to establish a baseline for starting the engine.
6. To fine-tune the idle circuit, adjust the mixture screw 1/4 turn in or out to achieve maximum idle RPM, wait 15 seconds between each adjustment for the idle to settle.
7. Never go past 3 full turns out this will make the fuel charge rich, foul plugs, and produce black smoke out of the exhaust, if the engine RPM keeps increasing past 3 turns the pilot/idle jet is too small and needs to be replaced with the next size larger.
8. After achieving maximum idle back out the mixture screw another 1/8 of a turn then adjust the throttle cable idle stop screw to 950-1050 RPM.
9. This procedure works great on 99% of all engines, for the 1% that demand a more robust throttle response on aftermarket monster fuel delivery systems additional tweaking outside the box may be necessary.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.cycleworld.com/story/bikes/kevin-cameron-explains-how-to-tune-carburetors/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jd8GhVyiafk
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=sites&srcid=ZGVmYXVsdGRvbWFpbnxyaXlmeXdtfGd4OjNjZjM2OGE1YTYxZmFmZDg
https://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/manufacturers/Skyjet
http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/ownersmanual/streetmini/ST125-6.pdf

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Kelvin for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Can-Am, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk00NiEqk1sFl_E9Y1waOOfvJISjyeg:1596427709829&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=Wiring+diagram+for+2013+can+am+Spyder+rss-e5&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjh3rbUlP7qAhXIneAKHdEvC0MQsAR6BAgJEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
http://abroad.study-research.pt/can-am-spyder-trailer-wiring-diagram.pdf
https://servicemanualwarehouse.com/can-am-2013-spyder-rs-service-manual/ $15
https://www.canampartshouse.com/oemparts/l/cam/51630c6df870021a248611e2/2013-spyder-rs-rss-se5-parts
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1164492/Can-Am-Spyder-Rt.html

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk03ycobtLKMtNlMGrOqBCxbjcZjNhQ:1596427442550&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=2005+Yamaha+90+dirt+bike+wiring+diagram&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjIkf3Uk_7qAhUuWN8KHfb3AUUQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bb8ievq1TsE
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/582283/Yamaha-Ttr90-M.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://ownersmanuals2.com/yamaha/ttr90-2005-owners-manual-68385

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://eatsleepride.com/c/135075/fork_oilwhat_is_it_and_why_change_it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEAPFhdjaW0
http://www.yamaparts.com/pdf_manuals/AS1_service.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.repairmanual.com/product/official-1966-yamaha-yg1k-owners-manual-yam-yg1-k/

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Duplicate question already answered

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous you need to repost your question under the Kawasaki KL300 ATV category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/blog/how-to-test-a-motorcycle-rectifier/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1305313/Honda-Cb125.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1322275/Honda-Cb125-Shine-Sp.html

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch not engaging due to improper adjustment.
2. Clutch plates worn passed book specs.
3. Transmission not engaging.
4. Broken main shaft.
5. Broken countershaft.
6. Broken chain.
7. Broken belt.
8. Broken U-Joint in the drive shaft.
9. Broken CVT unit.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://electricscooterparts.com/troubleshootingmotorrunsscooterwontmove.html
https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/variomatik-und-kupplung
http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf
https://www.scooterdomain.com/chinese-parts/by-brand/jonway/jonway-150cc-scooter-parts
https://absolutelyscooters.net/pdf/CGEN_dawg_scooter_manual.pdf

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous you need to repost your question under the Extreme ATV category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch not adjusted properly.
2. Primary chaincase overfilled with lubricant.
3. Corners wore off shifter clutch dogs.
4. Shifter return spring bent or broken.
5. Bent shifter rod.
6. A loose shift lever on shifter shaft.
7. Shifter forks sprung.
8. Shifter pawl needs adjusting.
9. Heel/toe shifter coming in contact with the floorboard.
10. Transmission oil too heavy.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/6843/motorcycle-gears-seem-really-stiff-and-hard-to-shift-when-cold
https://www.quora.com/What-would-be-the-reason-for-hard-gear-shifts-in-my-motorbike
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy7dfAUh0hg
https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=2080
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1635490/Honda-Xrm125-2018.html

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25698
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aAxb3-bsmc
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/817941/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/598692/Honda-Goldwing-Gl1500.html

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous you need to repost your question under the Yamaha Audio Mixer category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Ian if your carburetor or exhaust is:
COUGHING is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp build-up of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to the cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals.
POPPING on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build-up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec.
SPITTING is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean.
BACKFIRING is usually caused by a sticky/tight intake valve or a timing issue, 180 degrees out or cam chain off 1or 2 teeth.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk011xV32oFqebQ37NvmzsHn5FnFcTw:1596424662710&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=Honda+Hornet+600+FS+2002.+Has+started+to+cough+and+splutter+at+around+5000+up+to+1100+RPM&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjrtbmnif7qAhVlm-AKHZekDioQsAR6BAgHEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tx9fb1Ytz8k
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1051877/Honda-1998-Cb600fw.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/787089/Honda-Cb600f-2004.html

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Mike, you need to repost your question under the Kawasaki Lawnmower category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Loretta and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Tech-Help-Race-Shop,42/2011-mod-kx450-wont-start,1319678
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdXh6T4Lnbk
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/827707/Kawasaki-Kx450f.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/kx450f-2013-owners-manual-68769

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Thomas for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs -fluid capacities and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Victory, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk03YYmgc1AbHSk3KLt7dC3nOnRvpfg:1596423786446&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=Spark+plug+cap+victory+motorcycle+v92&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjvqc6Fhv7qAhVhc98KHVrsCe8QsAR6BAgJEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8hvh7v8EJI
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/aoq581k2ab25z/Victory_Manuals
https://www.victorymotorcycles.com/en-us/parts/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1165213/Victory-Motorcycles-V92c.html

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anton you need to repost your question under the Bashan ATV category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Robert you need to repost your question under the Kawasaki Small Engine category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Andy if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water, etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. Your engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide-open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide-open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, the engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark grey, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/447273-running-rich-sooo
https://motorcyclehabit.com/how-to-fix-a-motorcycle-running-rich-6-easy-ways/
http://www.classiccycles.org/1852/1894.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Norm you need to repost your question under the Kawasaki Bayou ATV category, not Motorcycles. Thanks, Gregg

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago

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