Help my fuse is blow!

LEARN THAT FUEL PUMPS CAN SHORT AND DO ALL THE TIME.
WIRES GOOD FUSE BLOWS IS PUMP
THE SCHEMATIC ON THE KUBOTA PROVES THAT
IF SEEN
AND I CAN NOT.
I have an AMP clamp meter
and i clamp to the pump + plus wire
and see overload over 10 amps the pump is bad. or jammed(deep inside)

Hello. It seems there is a 'short' circuit in either the 'run' circuit of the ignition switch and/or in the fuse box. Positive polarity (+) is touching negative polarity (-) somewhere for to 'blow' the fuse; maybe in the device that is blowing fuses. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Pull the connector from the back of the PTO switch and the 4 wire connector at engine. Replace fuse. Turn key to run.

Did fuse blow? No, turn key to start and back to run.

Did fuse blow? No, plug in engine connector.

Did fuse blow? Yes, likely shorted regulator or safety miswired.

Plug in PTO switch.

Did fuse blow? Yes, likely safety miswired.

The fuse isn't for blower motor. I saw a fuse 39 and fuse 36 both 10 amp, both for hvac. I don't know which one is blowing? One fuse is for actuator doors under the dash, the other is battery voltage to hvac control module. One is hot all the time, the other goes hot with key on.
What is model year? Does it blow as soon as you turn on the key? Any applicable hvac trouble codes? About all I can do is track wiring circuits.

Could be several things including one of the oxygen sensors, one of the injectors, the coils, or the engine computer.
You will probably need to get a shop manual to get all of the wiring diagrams connected with that circuit. And I would suggest you use a circuit breaker to check each one instead of fuses.
You'll have to disconnect each component until you find the short.

Generally, if you are using the manufactures fuse rating you can use a slightly higher rating and it will resolve the blowing fuses. Fuses supply resistance, if there isn't enough resistance you'll fry the system board in the amplifier. But if you have 25 amp fuses installed, install 30 amp, if you have 30 install 35 amp, 35 install 40. Anything higher will damage the amp.

Hope this helps.

A rare chance, something may be internally wrong with the amp and shorting it out which will blow the fuse.

Use the incorrect wiring of subs to the amp, you'll blow fuses and damage the amp from it turning off consistently. The amp should be running at 2 ohm stereo stable or 4 ohm mono stable.

Very few amps are designed to run at 1 ohm or less. Not to mention the subs can't handle it.

First off which fuse is it? The inline fuse from the battery or the amplifiers power supply fuse? Blowing the main fuse from the battery is caused by either the load (your amp) drawing too much current or you have a short to ground somewhere. Maybe there is a tear in the 12Vdc line and it is shorting to the chassis of your car. If the amps power supply fuse is blowing as soon as it turns on your amp has a shorted power supply. This will require internal component changes by a technician. If it is blowing after operation at high volumes I would say change the impedance that the amp is driving. If you are at 2 ohm try to rewire your speakers for four ohm. (go from parallel to series wiring then bridge mono or operate the amp in stereo mode)

check transfer case electrical switch, sometime if it bad it will also blow the fuse. don't recommend you put any higher fuse than recommend, If the fuse blow there is a short some where and by putting higher amp fuse you might short or burn something else beside the fuse. if that check out than check your transfer case motor, might lock up and not allowing the motor to turn instead it short the fuse. don't drive the car, just leave it in park, put correct fuse amp back in and unplug transfer case electric switch and turn the key on (dont start the car) and see if the fuse blow; if not plug it back in and see if it blow the fuse. if that is not the case, unplug transfer case wire, and do the same and see if it blow the fuse.

In my experience...if it blows the fuse as soon as you turn the key, under the flywheel, there is a stator that recharges the battery when the engine is running, remove the flywheel, in most cases the magnets under it are broken and are in direct contact with the stator. If that is the case, both must be replaced

this is in response to the post below:

I just bot a basslink t and i wired it up and nothing it just keeps blowing the fues in the unit i got mine on ebay so i dont know if i can use the warranty dose anybody have an ida for me- britter623

I got a used basslink about a month ago and had the exact same prob kept blowing fuses...found out that the voice coil had blown on the infinity...so I had a brand new dvc polk 10 sittin in the closet, I swapped them out, put the polk in the place of the infinity sub, however, the magnet is much larger, hence, dual voice coil, it would rattle sooo much from the passive radiator against the magnet, also could not turn the gain up at all due to the rattle. I got the bright idea to build a "custom fiberglas enclosure for the polk and incorporate the infinity's parts(amp/control) I finished the box finally last night and hooked it up this morning, no power, no lights, no nothing! s@#%, F&@%! ANyone had a prob w/the amp not having the lights turn on, no power??? Hope that helps about your fuse blowing issue.