Question about 2005 kawasaki KX 250

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I am rebuilding the top end of the engine and need toknow how to set timing

Posted by chendricks47 on

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JAMIE MERIGAN

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A KX 250 has no timing it is a 2 stoke motor are we sure it is KX 250 and not something else ??

Posted on Jul 02, 2011

  • chendricks47 Jul 02, 2011

    it is a kx250f 2005 and it is a 4 stroke and I need help setting the timing!

  • Austin Palmer Jun 15, 2012

    your going to set the engine to top dead center the way to do this to make sure is to get the piston all the way to the top so that it is flush with the head then your cams there should be little markings on each cam sprocket (thats what i call them) and markings below them on the head housing line them up make sure the chain is connected to the rod and you should be set but my suggestion would be fix it sell it and get a 2 stroke proud owner ever since 03 just do top ends every now and then

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Have a 2000 xr100r did top end and new carb first time ever found oil was filling up with fuel so changed oil and now the engine is rattling?


The fuel in your fuel thins the oil to a point it no longer does its job of protecting the internal components of the engine.
If you have run the engine for an extended period of time the fuel washes the oil away and will damage these parts.
Is the rattle top or bottom end?
Easy way to pin point the noise is to use a long flat blade screw driver have the bike running and put the end (screw end) against the bottom of the engine then push the handle against your ear it magnifies the noise
And will allow you to pin point the noise area you can move the screw driver all over the engine and listen this way.
Im guessing it may be a big end bearing which will mean an engine rebuild.

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1 Answer

2003 Kawasaki KX 250 how to remove the top end


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
1st time top end rebuild tips KX250
1997 Kx250 Top End Rebuild Info
https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/images/Kawasaki-KX-125-KX250-Service-Manual-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-2008.pdf
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2003 Kawasaki KX250 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


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I own a 2004 jetta gli. 2 piston stopped working. When changing the sparkplugs noted oil on of them. Pistons 1 and 4 still not working.


Hello,

Yes this is a major problem. What I mean by that is, when ever you pull a plug and there is heavy oil on them, it comes from only two places. Head gasket seal is leaking where it comes down and seeps on to your plugs or your rings gasket is shot, so the oil is getting past your rings and getting on your plugs. Point is this, sense you have pistons that stopped working, you for sure need a ring job, and looks like a piston/ring job, this I hate to say it is a top engine rebuild. Point is, you can't just fix part, it is not going to work for longevity. You would need at least the top end rebuilt, that is where they bore out chambers, new pistons, rings, head gasket and so forth. This can be costly, guess on average top end rebuild can run at average shop 1,500 plus. For sure get at least 3 prices if you decide to have it done. Sometimes your better to get a new rebuild and have it put in, with your engine as part trade for new rebuild. Because normally, if you rebuild top end and not the bottom, then that is on borrowed time. I hate to give the bad news, but that is where it looks like what you need. Mike

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I have a 2004 FLHT with 64000 miles the bike is still running very strong should I be thinking of doing any engine work to avoid engine failure in the future.


Not unless the engine is smoking, or knocking or something. It depends on what kind of maintenance has been done on the engine. Evidently, the maintenance has been done pretty well. I've torn down Evolution model engines with more miles than this on them and found the bottom ends to be in very good condition not needing a rebuild. Your top end may need a refreshing. It may not even need boring. I'd check the piston to cylinder wall clearance before I bored it. It may just need a new set of piston rings and a valve job. Don't go jumping in rebuilding your engine just because you think it might need it. Ride it until it quits. It won't cost you any more.

Good Luck
Steve

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1 Answer

CPI Aragon 50CC ran out of oil, replinished then re-started scooter then stopped, so topped up petrol but now will not start at all. Any ideas please ?


Hi, Aargreene you may have squeaked your top end this is commonly known as "HEAT SEIZE" the piston heats up expands and becomes extremely tight in the cylinder bore and usually occurs mainly on 2 cycle engines right after a fresh top end rebuild, but it can also happen to brand new motorcycles, these are rare instances due to better quality control and education. Overheating failures that cause pistons to seize are many and each one should be carefully diagnosed to prevent future repeat offenders and the usual suspects are:
1. Loose fasteners causing intake or base gaskets to leak or crankshaft seal failure caused by age, overheating, or walking.
2. Improper assembly of reed valve gaskets.
3. Improper oil/fuel premix ratio.
4. Broken, pinched, or cracked fuel line.
5. Carburetor fuel passages clogged or restricted from stale fuel varnish, ethanol sludge, dirt, rust, or fuel level in float bowl too low.
6. Main jet size too small.
7. Air filter improperly installed, missing or not sealing.
8. Faulty or improperly adjusted oil pump and or cable.
9. Failure to bleed oil pump after running oil tank dry, rebuild of pump or replacement
10. Among the causes of lack of cylinder, lubrication is clogging of lubricator by dirt or waste, obstruction in oil pipes/lines, leaky check valves, leaky pump packing, broken oil pipe/line, oil too cold to feed.
11. Wrong type of oil used in premix or oil tank
12. Improper spark plug heat range (too hot) and or gap.
13. Ignition timing retarded, faulty CDI.
14. Excessive engine load, brakes dragging, clutch slipping, transmission lubricant level too low or viscosity to high.
15. Engine coolant level too low, too old, or improper mixture ratio.
16. Engine coolant pump failure, damage, or passages restricted.
17. Radiator clogged, fins damaged, or faulty cap.
18. Failure to follow proper break in procedures.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
CPI Aragon 50 07 12 Piston Kit Top End Gasket Set Standard Bore 40mm
Motorcycle Top End Rebuild 4 Stroke Part 1 of 2
http://absolutelyscooters.net/service-manuals.html
CPI Scooter Parts Racing Planet USA
Free CPI Motorcycle Service Manuals for download

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e


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1 Answer

Just changed valve shims and need toknow how to set timing


make sure the the engine is at tdc take the two cams and set the in the holder at the at a 9 and 3 position make sure the ex cam is in fount it has the decomp valve on it. You should if the cams are in the right spot you should see marks numbers on the cams that line up with the head and you should count about 15 pins from the top mark to top mark on the timing chain then install the chain ten and rotate the motor over slow if it turns over free the you are done

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Top end rebuild instructions 49 cc scooter


forget the shop
it is basically a wheel lawn motor engine

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Top-end rattling after it heats up, assume its piston slap. Is it time for rebuild? Do you recommend to rebuild head as well (valves and seats)?


First, let's assume that the valve tappet clearances are set correctly and the cam chain is properly tensioned. This will eliminate these as possible sources of excess mechanical engine noise.

If the noise is, in fact, 'piston slap' - then a teardown and inspection of the top end is called for. And yes, in addition to resolving a worn piston and cylinder bore, it would be an ideal time to examine the valve train for needed service. At a minimum, remove the valves and clean all carbon from them and the cylinder head and ports. Check for excess valve-to-guide clearances and pitted or worn valve seats. Usually, these engines are just fine with a cleaning of the parts and a re-lap of the valve seats. Replace all the gaskets and valve guide seals - and you should be ready to rock and roll.

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