Need to remove gearbox what tool do I need to remove the 30mm nut inside the clutch basket. Can it be done without that tool

Hello,
something is not fitted right inside or the new plates don't match the original outer or inner basket. This would cause the plates to "backlash" inside the clutch, especially at idling.
if that's not the case, you might have not tighten hard enough the main shaft nut and it came loose. You need a special tool to hold properly the inner drum.

You need the right equipment and knowledge to do this job there are a lot of cables wires etc that need to be removed before the gearbox can be loosened and removed.
There are also a lot of special tools required and the job is best done on a ramp or pit to gain access.
Trying to do this on the ground would be difficult and very dangerous also the engine needs to be suspended when the gearbox mounts are removed.
It is impossible to remove the clutch pressure plate, plate and hydraulic bearing on the C4 without removing the gearbox.
Take it to a garage/ clutch specialist.

Check thishttp://www.babbittsonline.com/suzuki-motorcycle-parts#/Suzuki/VL1500T_(2009)/CLUTCH/022890010/56022890019
If you need to take apart just the clutch plates and replace them, you don't need any special tool.Just remove the right hand crankcase cover and the 5 bolts with the springs and pull out the pressure plate and replace the clutch plates.To remove the clutch basket (part #1 on illustrator), then you do need special tools such as air ratchet gun and the Suzuki special tool that holds the basket still, to remove the nut.

Have you checked each individual clutch spring to see if broken?
To get clutch basket off: remove all springs, all friction plates. Make sure to leave all plates in original order. Then, with impact gun, remove large nut in center of
clutch basket. Should remove easily. No puller needed.

Please give all details Year, Make, Eng. size, etc. ....and then I would be able to help you better.

Thanks,
over4dy

I assume you're talking about the primary chain. To get the primary chain off, you must remove the compensator sprocket from the engine shaft and disassemble the clutch, which takes a special tool to compress the clutch spings, and remove the outer clutch basket. The outer clutch basket is held on by a large nut on the inside that has left-handed threads on it. Once you have all that off, you can remove the four "trapdoor" bolts and pry the transmission out.

Good Luck
Steve

Well, you only need the clutch to release, and that cannot be major. Inspect the cable completely, does it move at the trans end when you pulll it. What is inside is essentially a fork on a release bearing, a rod, and the clutch spring plate.

undo centre wheel hub nut 30mm/32mm, socket. undo lower wish-bone outer bolts, disconect battery,/remove starter motor,/remove transmission mounting bolts to body frame ,/ remove all surrounding bolts around bell housing transmission,/ remove clutch cable from transmission,/ remove drive shafts from centre hub and transmission,/ make sure car is standing on axle stands at front of jacking points,/use a trolley jack to suport engine sump with a piece of wood,/ slide transmission away from flywheel,/lower transmision on floor,/undo all clutch plate preasure bolts 10mm,/remove thrust bearing located on centre transmision shaft ,.also make sure if fitted speedo cable needs to be removed.new clutch plate should indicate flywheel ,without fitting clutch plate wrong way round/otherwise transmision will not bolt to engine block.,

This may be a bit above your skills but first unplug the machine. You will need to purchase a special tool to do this job. It is called a spanner wrench, and it removes the drive block nut securing the inner basket. Remove the agitator, by removing the cap, and loosening the bolt on the inside. Loosen (using the tool), the nut securing the drive block to the basket drive. Locate and remove the 2 screws that secure the console to the cabinet. Tilt the console backwards, and remove the 2 gold clips, and disconnect the lid switch connector. Tilt the entire cabinet forward, and off of the base. Remove the inner tub, and remove the basket drive block. Remove the clips securing the pump to the motor, but do not remove the hoses. Remove the motor clips, motor and unplug the motor wiring plug, and take the wiring clip out of the transmission. Gently, tilt the entire machine to a 45 degree angle, so that you can access the underside of the machine. Remove the 3 bolts that secure the transmission (1/2 inch). Carefully, pull the transmission out of the machine. You must remove the transmission and open the top of it and fill it with 85 or 90 weight gear oil. I suggest that you replace the clutch at the same time. The clutch is the round thing sitting no top of the transmission. The basket drive is the thing sticking out of center of the machine, with the plastic tab hanging down. Pull the basket drive out of the tube. Inspect the basket drive hub, to make sure that there is no oil on the hub. If so, make sure you clean it very well. Be as quick as possible, because oil will start leaking out of the shaft bearings since the machine is tilted, and you cannot stop it. Make sure that you use the proper spring for the brake and clutch, and then the re-assembly is the reverse of what you have done.

You may want to call a repair man!