How do i change fork seals on a roadster 1983?

cOULD LEAKING FORK SEALS CAUSE FRONT BRAKES TO FOUL? -- YES
You shuld get a manual, you must check the surface of the fork, if there are scratches, you will destroy a new seal.

Instructions

1. • 1 Remove the front tire with the crescent wrench and set aside. Remove the nut and axle bolt from the tier and use the hammer to remove the axle bolt from the forks.
     
   • 2 Remove the securing bolt at the top of the fork on the handle bars. Slide the forks out of the fittings.
     
   • 3 Place the forks into the oil pan, bottom down, and remove the oil nut. Let the forks drain for ten minutes into the oil pan.
     
   • 4 Tighten the oil nuts and remove the seal from the fork fitting with a screwdriver. Slide the seal off the fork.
     
   • 5 Apply oil around the inside of the seal. Slide the seal onto the fork and press into the fitting tightly.
     
   • 6 Replace the oil in the fork following the manufacturer's recommendation.
     
   • 7 Replace the forks and the tire following the steps above in reverse order.
     

Are you rebuilding your front suspension forks? If so, you have to sharply pull the fork down so it smacks the seal. after you do this a lot, it will eventually drive out the seal. You also have to tap in the new seal far enough to place the clips back in their grooves. I use a PVC pipe that I've cut about 2 inches lengthwise out of it. It fits right around the fork tube and I can tap on it to drive the seal while maintaining about 80% contact with it's circumference. This works great for me.

The fork tube needs to be removed from the motorcycle. Wheel, fender, pinch bolts on triple tree released and the tube slide out of the clamps. The fork has a drain bolt at the bottom, set it in a drain pan and with the screw removed pump the fork till the oill is out. Measure how much as you need to put the right amount of new oil in when your done. If the one your doing was a leakers you needto drain the other one anyway as the oil needs to be new and the same as the other so measure it. Fork oil is better than trans fluild as it is a little different. trans fluild will work. once the fluild is under control theres an allem bolt going in from the bottom of the fork, The dust cap abovre the seal just pulls off and if it's good you can use it over, some seals have a snap ring holding the seal in so look for it, once out or it's not there you can pull the fork tube out in a hammering action against the seal till it comes out ( it'll take a few strog hits.) with the sael out wipe out everthing and don't let the parts get out of order. If you do go to bike bandit . com and look up your bike and the break down of the fork will show the order. You can buy from them as well most parts are shipped out of San deigo Calif. I get them in Kentucky in a few days. Push the new seal in after the allen bolt in the bottom has been tightened, a small drift and a hammer working around till it's all the ay in. add new fork oil though the top air valve or take the big nut off measureing the amount that you recorded some use 6 oz some use 12 and everything inbetween. the books can mess you up as the fork may be off something else. reassemble and tighten carefully all the bolts you lossened or removed. ( all of them) work up and down with the front brake on rocking if if feels good it is , go riding.

you have to take the forks out im afraid. put the bike on a few blocks so you have good height to slide the forks out, take the front wheel off and mudguard. then undo the pinch bolts by the handle bars then twist the forks left and right until they slide downwards and out. then you undo the tops and tip the old oil out. If your going to do all this you may aswell change the fork seals aswell if they havnt been done for a while. Easiest thing to do is get the forks out and then take them to a bike shop and let them do it, saves you loads on labour.
steve

a trace is normal, to much is not. that probable is due to dryed out fork seal, as they ere not getting lubed due to inactivity. the air fittings are for ajustable damping. if you ride 2 up or yourself being heavy or you just want a firmer fork suspension. i don;t know the range for your bike. try asking the dealer.or just put in 5 lbs. and try. if the presure doesn't last then you have leaky seals......

you should put in new fork seals before adding oil -leaking fork seals should be repaired as oil can get on the front brake pads--buy a clymer manual and you can change them yourself

I have goldwings since 1980. They are very reliable. First thing I would change is the timing belt. (If it fails, bent valves...) As far as the stator, the normal fix for these 4 cylinder early ones (if they are still working) is to cut the 3 wire plug in between the stator & wiring harness & solder the leads together. Dirt, water, corrosion in this connection makes the stator fail. Make sure your carbs are clean and final drive & ft bearings are re-greased. Next problem that occurs that you can check for is oil seal in front forks. You can remove them & put new seals in by yourself if you have the tools. You should have lots more trouble free mileage if bike has been properly maintained. Rick