I had bent my shift arm then when i tried to replace i had to move the clamp piece that goes on the transmission so the rubber piece the connects to the rod the goes down there wouldnt rub against the bike and when i did this it now causes the bike to only switch between 1st and netrual or netrual and 2nd. please help me out so i can figure out the exact place it needs to be so i can havbe it switch between all gears

It could possibly be loose linkage where it connects to the transmission. Block the wheels on the passenger side and jack up the driver side of the car, putting jack stands under the front and back.Using a flashlight or drop light, inspect the linkage for loose connections or bent arms. If nothing found, try to manually move the linkage at the transmission. There is a possibility of bent or broken linkage inside the transmission, but that is an involved repair best suited for a shop.

Hi. It would be best to know the manufactures model of your tractor or the transmission model number to best help. Typically issues with riding mower transmissions is in the shift keys inside the transmission. I would also ask if the transmission gear is moving far enough to actually put the transmission in reverse. Be sure nothing is binding or that the shift arm is not bent. That is the first thing to try. With more information I may be of more assistance.

Transmission shops will sell you a rebuilt or rebuilt yours for enough money to take a vacation!
Going on your symptoms alone, sound like may be you have only some bent shift linkage, some worn shift parts, or maybe even some broken motor mounts!
If you can, raise the car up in the air and maybe unhook the shift linkage off the transmission, and see if the metal piece that sticks out of the transmission that the shift linkage attaches to is free and clear, and then see if the linkage will make that shifting lever go all the way from one end of range to the other.
You would need someone to move the lever inside the car while you looked underneath.
Bent linkage, or maybe missing nylon bushings somewhere in the linkage, or stretched cables if it is cable shifted, or failed motor mounts which have caused to engine or transmission to be in a position other that factory-produced could be a cause of this.

1

Take the rubber boot off the gear shift inside the vehicle and lift it up, exposing the area where the gear shift and the transmission connect.
2

Look for the shift cable and the shifting arm. A single bolt and nut connect the shift cable and shift arm.

3

Twist the nut connecting the gear shift and the transmission. Use a socket wrench and remove the gear shift. Use an open-end wrench to loosen the nut holding the shift cable and the shift arm together.
4

Slide off the sleeve on the shift cable and loosen the shift cable at the other end with an open-end wrench. Both ends of the shifting cable attach to the shifting arm in different locations.
5

Hitch the new shift cable to the 2 anchor points on the shift arm using the same bolts and nuts. Reconnect the gear shift to the transmission and push the rubber boot back into place around the gear shift inside the car.
6

Test the functionality of the shifting cable by moving the gear shift in and out of gear.

1. • 1 Take the rubber boot off the gear shift inside the vehicle and lift it up, exposing the area where the gear shift and the transmission connect.
     
   • 2 Look for the shift cable and the shifting arm. A single bolt and nut connect the shift cable and shift arm.
     
   • 3 Twist the nut connecting the gear shift and the transmission. Use a socket wrench and remove the gear shift. Use an open-end wrench to loosen the nut holding the shift cable and the shift arm together.
     
   • 4 Slide off the sleeve on the shift cable and loosen the shift cable at the other end with an open-end wrench. Both ends of the shifting cable attach to the shifting arm in different locations.
     
   • 5 Hitch the new shift cable to the 2 anchor points on the shift arm using the same bolts and nuts. Reconnect the gear shift to the transmission and push the rubber boot back into place around the gear shift inside the car.
     
   • 6 Test the functionality of the shifting cable by moving the gear shift in and out of gear.
     

whirlpool washers have a drive coupling in between the motor and the transmission to replace this remove the top and disconnect the lid switch set it aside remove the front panel then remove the 2 clips that hold the pump on then push it out of the way then remove the 2 screws that hold the motor clamps on and then remove the upper and lower motor clamps remove the motor then replace the three piece "motor coupling" one piece goes on the motor the other three pronged plastic piece goes on the transmission and the rubber isolator goes between them and now just put every thing back together

No, the remote oil line hose needs to be replaced. There is an easier fix to this other then replacing the remote oil line. Just to make sure were on the same page, the transmission line has no rubber line and is a one piece metal line from the transmission to the radiator on the passenger side. The remote engine oil line is on the drivers side and is rubber and goes to the radiator and remote oil filter housing. That is the hose that is common to leak at the factory compression clamp where the rubber hose connects to the metal line. The factory compression clamp can be cut off and just place the rubber hose or replace the oil line and replace the compression clamp. Make sure it's a compression clamp and not a hose clamp, the compression clamp has a better all round clamping force to the hose and less to fail then the hose clamps. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to answer any questions you may have and NAPA or Auto Zone will have all the parts you need to get the job done.

it sounds like shift cable problem the steel casing contracts when cold
then expands a little when it warms up.
to check the cable try this under hood on left side the cable comes threw the firewall to the shift lever on top of the transmission there may be a cable clamp if so mark the cable where it comes out of the clamp
with a piece of tape so it can go back in the same place loosen clamp.
the cable is held in the lever threw a rubber gromet pop it out with a screwdriver now move shifter in car if it is still hard and binding replace
the cable if it moves freely the problem is internel you will have to see
your mechanic or transmission shop

Sounds like you are rusted out. Even the factory parts are not that expensive and they are properly bent. Check the dealer.
If substituting aftermarket piping you want to either replace the bad section with a splice or the whole piece. Notice the end connections and where you will attach the replacements.
Notice the routing of the gas line away from hot exhaust parts and areas a lift jack will crush your line. Notice what moves close to the fuel line to allow for travel.

You may be able to splice a piece of rubber fuel line into a metal line with a few clamps.

I have seen everything you will need at Autozone and Oreillys and similar stores with the exception of Factory parts.