1976 r750/6 The bike loses all electrical power. from 1 - 24 hours later it comes back.

Volts - Watts and Amps are the gasoline of an electric bike. Ohms law comes to play here. If we were talking about water - Where Volts = pressure - and Amps = volume ... Watts are the measure of actual work done. Does this make any sense to you ??? A bike that claims to run of 48 volts ... means nothing. A bike that says it runs at 50 amps ... means nothing ... a Bike that says it sips watts ... means nothing.

Think in these terms ... a battery is rated in Amp hours. That a given battery rated at 1000 amp hours ... is capable of delivering 1000 amps of power for one hour before it is discharged. Conversely, it can deliver one amp for 1000 hours - or any calcuation in between. Watts is the actual measure of work. I suggest you bone up on Ohms law here ... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law and http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/ohmlaw.html. there are lots of other references. What does the electric motorcycle you are looking at claim is the watt consumption??? Can the battery supply the power you require for your riding activity? How long does it take to fill the "gas tank" with watts before you can do it again?
\I hope this answers your question ... if not ... please ask again.

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Check battery voltage as well as alternator voltage.

More likely to be your ignition coils. They heat up and expand this can cause an open circuit which will close up again when it has cooled down. Although, a bad charging system may cause this problem. Check the battery voltage with engine switched off ( approx 12 volts) and with the engine running (approx 14 volts) If you are getting 14 volts then your battery is dead, if you aren't, then your charging system has a fault.

These bikes are never senen with many miles on them when for sale, invariably they have issues uncommon to a newer bike, this sis due to the workmanship and metalurgical issues etc, they are clones but thats where the similaritys end, they nevr last from all I ever saw of these bikes.
If you mean loses power on hills due to clutch slippage, the springs i know get weak fast and lose tension sufficient to engage fully thus allowing plates to slip and losing power to the rear wheel, if you mean otherwise nobody can tell you this way correctly.

Hi, Nsmith845 this is the sort of electrical problem that is probably mechanical. In other words, a complete failure like this suggests there is a break in the wiring or a blown fuse. If nothing on the bike is working, but the battery is fully charged, there are not many parts of the bike that can cause that lack of power. I can only recommend starting at the battery and working your way along with the wiring, checking every connection, including the ignition switch. There is probably a broken connection or failed electrical part that should be obvious when you come across it.
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Anytime you have an electrical problem, the first place to start is the battery. Motorcycles are notoriously hard on batteries due to vibration. Remove the battery and take it to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test it. Judging from what you said your bike did, I'd be surprised if they didn't tell you the battery is bad. It sounds like the battery suffered and internal short that basically killed all the power to your bike or at least dropped it down to between two and eight volts. I think this is what is wrong with your bike. I hope this helps. Good Luck, Steve

You need to get basic checks.

Is there spark?
Is there petrol at plugs?
Is timing correct?
Compressions OK.?

There is an electrical switch that senses when the transmission is in neutral. The switch may be defective causing this problem. Check the electrical connections to this switch. If they seem to be secure, replacement of the switch may be warranted.

From your explanation it sure sounds electricals, but surprising to hve a total failure to the electricals and thn it reappears after 30seconds!
Best would be to go through the wiring especially frm the battery onwards, the fuse box .
Since it is totally disappearing it should be a fault to those main wires could be lose connections somewhere!.
Hope this helps.

you say theres petrol running from the hose from the airbox? if so that aint right and sounds like your carburettor floats are sticking open which would flood the bike and make it run rough and to rich sometimes bashing the float bowl on the bottom of the carb whilst still on the bike can free a sticky float use a bit of 2x2 or 2x4 and jab it dont use a sledge hammer or something lol if that dont work strip down the float chamber and clean and try again all the best