How do I install new grips on my Suzuki S50. There is a screw on the end cap, but I can't unscrew it. I concerned I may strip the head.

Got a sufficiently wide rubber-band handy? Place it on top of the screw head then try to unscrew the screw slowly pushing really hard. Sometimes the rubber will give you the extra grip needed to get that screw out.

hi - can you get a small flat blade screw drive under the edge of the screw and lift while unscrewing it or the tips of a broken fork. you may have to tap a new thread if screw is just turning.

get a pair of vice grip pliers and lightly clamp , then pull upwards whilst turning it should come off .

The fuse is inside, clamped to the bottom iron.

Swing the top open. There are 4 small screws, two metric M3 flatheads in the front pivot, two self tapping near the hinge, that hold the bottom iron in place.

Often the M3 screws will become fused to the captive nuts. Using the correct size cross-point screwdriver, position it in one of the pivot end screws, and while holding it firmly directly in line with the screw, give the screwdriver a sharp tap on the end of the handle, as if it were a chisel. Repeat with the other front pivot screw.

If the screw does not unscrew with a minimum of force, repeat the tapping procedure. If this does not work, use a 1/8" metal bit to drill through the screw heads. Remove the rear screws.

There is a spring-loaded pin running through the front pivot halves. Press it in and carefully swing the bottom grid upward. Turn the iron upside down. At the rear of the irons, you'll see where the wires enter from the rear support. Find the metal clip holding down a piece of white rubbery tubing. Remove the screw and clip. The temperature-limiting fusible link is inside the tubing.

Push the tubing toward one side until the wire crimp is seen. On the fuse side of each crimp,AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CRIMP, clip the lead. Remove the tubing and clip the other lead.

Take two uninsulated crimp-style spade lugs for 20 ga wire, and clip off the spade ends. The crimp ends will be your new crimp connector.

From the iron's leds, remove the old crimps. Strip just enough jacket for the exposed wire ends to match the length of the new crimp connectors.

Take the stripped lead that is toward the iron's terminal, insert into a crimp connector. Insert one end of the new fuse in the other end so the overlapping leads each just reach the opposite end of the connector. Crimp in place.

Slide the tubing over the fuse and push it toward the iron. (The loom tubing on the other wires will compress to permit this).

Connect the other end of the new fuse to the remaining stripped wire with the second crimp connector.

If you had to drill out the M3 screws (I did), use a vice grip wrench to grasp the remaining shaft with as little compression as possible and remove. The threads of the captive nuts should be ok. Replace the screws with M3 flat head crosshead screws and antiseize compound of the threads.

Notes:
1. The most common reason for thermal fuse failure is running the iron empty with the top raised.
2. I got replacement fuses via ebay 4/$2, M3 screws at Ace Hardware @$0.19.
3. All the wires inside the iron are insulated with high temperature silicone or non-melting jackets. Stripping requires an electricians stripper/crimper with a 20-22 ga cutter. More force is needed to strip these wires than you might expect. You'll find it much easier if you hold the wire being stripped with a pliers while stripping.

Are you able to grab the screw's head with pliers? If so, you may be able to get a firm enough grip to manually twist it out until it is free. If not, you may have to resort to super glue and a cheap screwdriver that you are willing to sacrifice. Heavily glue the screwdriver into the screw and hold while it dries, then unscrew it and throw the whole mess away.

If you end up damaging the sides of the hole in the cabinet, you can squirt in wood glue, then hammer in a wooden golf tee to have a fresh material for a new screw. Good luck!

The small part is most likely a star nut This pic is proper orientation Top = Top

If so you must install this in the end of the handle bar with a hammer. First put the screw into the top of the nut and line the nut up with the open end of the haldle bar. Lightly tap the nut into the end of the bar until the screw head is ammost flush with the end of the bar. Remove the screw with allen wrenches, install grips, put screw through plastic end cap and thresd into star nut inside the bar.

Hope this helps.

The only thing I can see going wrong is the wrong star nut for your diametre of handle bar.

Assembly is as follows: Star nut first into bar,

You could bring it to a repair shop where they will probably install a new power cord. The now-shortened power cord can be fitted with a new plug, and used as before instead - for a fraction of the cost.

From what I can tell, the pressure washer is a 120 volt type. Purchase a replacement plug - called a "cord cap". The most common configuration is pictured below:



A 15 amp / 125 volt male cord cap made by Leviton.

Your's is likely rated at 125V/ 15A (like the one above). This means there's 2 parallel blades and a ground pin - like most grounded plugs in your home. If unsure, bring the cut off section of the power cord to a hardware store to select an identical cord cap. You'll want to purchase the type of cord cap that has terminal screws - not the type without screws. The packaging of the cord cap will indicate how much of the cord jacket and individual wire insulation to remove. A little more or less won't make it impossible to do - but don't deviate too much from these dimensions for the best results. Once the cord has been stripped correctly - Disassemble the cord cap body from the outer shell by removing the screws on the front. Loosen or remove the 2 screws at the cord grip end and slip the shell over the end of the power cord.

Bring the cord cap body to the cord. The body will have 3 screws. One each silver (or light colored), bronze (or dark colored) and green. Loosen all the screws - do not completely remove them. Twist all the strands of each wire so that they are bundled together and there are no stray wires sticking out. Do this for each white, black and green wires. The black wire will connect to the bronze colored screw, the white wire to the silver screw and the green to the green colored screw. You can either insert the stripped wires into the small holes at the back of the terminal screws, or wrap them around the screw terminals themselves. The best way is to wire from the back - but if you choose to wrap around the screws, be sure all the small wires are under the screw head. Tighten the screws and tug the wires one at a time to make sure they are held firmly in place.

Once satisfied that the wires are connected correctly and tight - slide the outer shell towards the cord cap body. Align the screws with the holes in the outer shell. The parts will only fit together one way - so don't try to force it together. Tighten the screws in the front and then install / tighten the screws at the cord end to grip the cord. This clamp should be firm - but not to the point of crushing the cord. Test in a ground fault protected outlet and you're done!

I hope this helps.. please rate this reply - thanks!

the only way is to get some locktight or super glue on it to keep it in place for a bit.

Using a phillips head screw driver, you need to grip the unit with your left hand and then push really hard against the screw head before starting to turn the screw. They are very tight from the factory. Once it breaks loose and starts to unscrew, the rest is easy.

try super gluing (or with some commercial purchased weld products (like a glue or epoxy) a bolt to it and extract the screw with a wrench on the head of the bolt. Might try vice grips on the head too.