How to remove the A35 Targa Model magneto outer casing. lock nut has been remove & outer housing will not release

Step 1 Pull back the rubber cover of the clutch lever to reveal the lock nut and adjusting screw. Loosen the lock nut with a wrench. Tighten the adjuster screw until it won't turn any more.
Step 2 Remove the left frame cover of the body of the bike and set it aside in a safe place. Remove the bolts holding the secondary gear case cover and the clutch release cover with a socket wrench. Remove the secondary gear case and clutch release cover and set them aside.
Step 3 Find the lock nut and screw located at the lower end of the clutch assembly cable. Loosen the lock nut. Loosen the screw by three rotations. Slowly finger tighten the adjusting screw until you start to feel resistance. Loosen the screw a quarter-rotation. Tighten the lock nut to hold it in place.
Step 4 Locate the lower cable adjuster above the clutch release cover. Loosen the two lock nuts of the adjuster with the socket wrench. Turn the cable adjuster screw and check the clutch lever as you turn. Tighten the adjuster screw until the clutch lever will wiggle loosely or "play" about 1/8-inch. Tighten the lock nuts.
Tighten the lock nut of the clutch lever. Replace the clutch release, secondary gear case and left frame cover. Pull the rubber cover back over the clutch lever.

Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

Hi! sensenicht
Are there bolts on the outer hubs. If so removing the axel hub bolts will allow you to pull the axles. You should be able to remove the lock nut, lock washer and adjusting nut (second nut) to remove rear brake hubs and drums. The C-Clips are only used on the half ton and lighter cars. This is called floating axels.
Its important to replace the hub seals on the inside of the drums. A small amount of axel greese will make your brakes not work properly.
InMrFixIt

Using a hack saw, cut through outer casing in cable a couple inches down from broken end on the cable that is broken. Be careful to only cut through outer casing & not cable inside. Then use vise grips to pull cable to open hood.

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

Removal & Installation

1. Select the following settings:
   Turn the ignition ON Select Recirc in the OFF setting Turn the ignition OFF
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Remove the wiper arm assemblies.
   CAUTION A sharp edge is revealed once the weatherstrip is removed.
4. Remove the weatherstrip at rear of the engine compartment.
5. Remove the cowl retaining nuts.
   
   
   

   Fig. Remove the cowl screen assembly
   

6. Remove the cowl screen assembly.
7. Rotate the locking tabs outward to release the filter assembly.
8. Remove the filter by lifting straight up.
   
   
   

   Fig. Remove the wiper module retaining bolts
   

9. Remove the wiper module retaining bolts.
10. Reposition the wiper module to the right.
11. Remove the filter housing attachment bolts.
12. Remove the filter housing.
13. Remove the blower motor housing:
14. Remove the blower motor housing screws
    
    
    

    Fig. Release the locking tabs and remove the fan housing
    

15. Release the locking tabs and remove the fan housing
16. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
17. Squeeze the bottom of the connector and pull downward.
18. Remove the blower motor assembly by lifting straight out.

To install:

NOTE The fan motor assembly rib must be located into the channel in the module housing.

1. Install the blower motor assembly into the module housing.
2. Connect the blower motor electrical connector.
   NOTE The housing rib must fit into the slot in the HVAC module case.
3. Install the blower motor housing. Snap the left and right clip into place
4. Tighten the fan housing to blower motor housing screws to 9 inch lbs.(1 Nm).
   NOTE A new filter housing seal must be used whenever the filter housing is removed to prevent water from leaking into module.
5. Remove the filter housing seal using a small flat-blade screwdriver.
6. Install a new filter housing seal.
7. Install the filter housing.
8. Install the filter housing screws, and tighten the screws to 31 inch lbs.(3.5 Nm).
9. Position the wiper module.
10. Install the wiper module bolts, and tighten the bolts to 44 inch lbs.(5 Nm).
11. Install the passenger compartment air filter. Notice the air flow direction indicator printed on side of the filter.
12. Rotate the locking tabs on the filter housing inward to secure the air filter in place.
13. Install the cowl screen.
14. Install the cowl screen nuts, and tighten the nuts to 9 inch lbs.(1 Nm).
15. Close filter access door.
16. Install the weatherstrip at rear of the engine compartment.
17. Install the wiper arm assemblies.
18. Connect the negative battery cable.

1. Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
2. Remove the lower blower motor cover retaining screws.
   
   
   

   Fig. Remove the lower blower motor cover
   

3. Remove the lower blower motor cover.
4. Remove the blower motor nuts.
   NOTE Cut through the case as straight as possible because the motor cup must be replaced.
5. In order to prevent damage to the component, do not cut any deeper than necessary to remove the motor cup.
6. Remove the blower motor and cup from the lower case by cutting through the case between the circular ribs around the motor with a sharp utility knife.
7. Release the blower motor retaining tab and remove the motor from the cup.
   

To install:

1. Install the blower motor into the motor cup that was cut out of the lower case.
   
   
   

   Fig. Install the blower motor (1) into the motor cup (2) that was cut out of the lower case
   

2. Install the blower motor nuts, and tighten the nuts to 21 inch lbs.(2.4 Nm).
3. Attach the service ring to the motor cup with the screws included in the kit, and tighten the screws to 15 inch lbs.(1.8 Nm).
4. Install the blower motor and service ring into the HVAC module using the screws included in the kit. Make certain the blower motor electrical connector is pointing rearward in the vehicle, and tighten the screws to 15 inch lbs.(1.8 Nm).
5. Install the lower blower motor cover.
6. Install the lower blower motor cover retaining screws, and tighten the screws to 15 inch lbs.(1.8 Nm).
7. Connect the blower motor electrical connector.

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this).

FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle
   
   
3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware
   
   
5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
   
8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
   
10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
    
13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
14. Assemble the hub parts.
15. Install the caliper.
16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive

1. Remove the wheel cover.
2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle
   
   
3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship
   
   
5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat
    
    
16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
   
2. Remove the Instrument Panel Center Bezel, Chrysler and Dodge.
   
3. Remove side trim panel to steering column cover.
   
4. Remove the screws that secure the steering column cover to the instrument panel and relocate panel.
   
5. Pull the steering column cover rearward at the top and right side of the cover to release the snap retainers from the instrument panel.
   
6. Remove the screws that secure the instrument panel steering column cover reinforcement to bracket and remove reinforcement from the vehicle. Remove the 2 front mounting nuts.
   
7. Remove the lower mounting nut.
   
8. Slide the assembly rearward into the instrument panel and down to gain access to switch.
   
9. Disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition Switch and SKREEM Module.
   
10. Remove the interlock cable by depressing the locking tab and pulling straight.
    
11. Remove ignition switch mounting screw.
    
12. Squeeze the 2 locking tabs to remove ignition switch from the lockhousing .
    

Removal and installation of the ignition switch

To install:

NOTE A tab on the ignition switch indexes to a notch in the lock cylinder housing. Also, a slot in the end of the ignition switch fits over the shaft in the end of the lock cylinder housing.

1. Use the ignition key to rotate the lock cylinder to align the ignition switch with lock cylinder housing.
   
2. Insert ignition switch into lock housing until locking tabs are seated into openings on lock housing.
   
3. Install ignition switch mounting screw.
   
4. Install the interlock cable into the switch assembly. Attach electrical connector to SKREEM Module.
   
5. Install switch assembly into Instrument Panel.
   
6. Attach electrical connector to ignition switch.
   
7. Tighten the 2 mounting nuts.
   
8. Tighten the lower mounting nut.
   
9. Install steering column reinforcement.
   
10. Steering column reinforcement installed.
    
11. Install the Steering column reinforcement cover.
    
12. Install trim panel end.
    
13. Install the Bezel cluster.
    
14. Install the ignition switch bezel ring.
    
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
    

unplug the machine and the door lock will release... to replace.. 1) remove door gasket wire. remove outer door gasket. 2) remove two screws that hold door lock 3) reach in remove wires 4) replace wire to new door lock

under the agitator youll see a lock nut appox 2-3in, around "locking" the inner basket to the outer basket. although they do sell a spanner wrench to remove this nut, A decent pipewrench and little muscle will get it loose, after that the tub will pull right out. assuming youve taken off the outer tub gasket cover