Question about 2003 kawasaki KX 250
I was just wondering I have a kx250 2002 model I cant adjust the clutch cable when I do the cable is still loose I replaced one of the bearings were the actuator lever goes into the engine casing I replaced the old clutch cable but still can't adjust the clutch cable was wondering what else do I need to do and were does the actuator suppose to face on the engine and how do I tell if it is no good @
SOURCE: Clutch cable adjusters
Bowden cables like your clutch cable work on the law of the lever. Think of lifting up a heavy weight hanging on a rope using a lever balanced on a fulcrum. The rope is in tension and the fulcrum is in compression. To adjust the point of lift you could either vary the length of the rope or adjust the height of the fulcrum. The outer sleeve of your clutch cable is made out of plastic-coated steel, square-section wire and is resistant to compression forces along its length. This outer sleeve works as your fulcrum and, because it is flexible, lets you put it where it is needed - at the end of your handlebar. The cable inner is like the rope in the lever example and resists only stretching forces. It is threaded down through that snaking fulcrum back to where control movement is needed. The cable adjusters let you fine tune the length of the fulcrum, and therefore the lift range of the inner cable.,,,
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
FORDS ARE OK if the noise u are hearing is going away when u press the clutch it sounds like it is comming from the gearbox. the gearbox stops turning wheh u hold the clutch in is the gearbox noisey when u dive it 1-2-3-4 this will let u know if the gearbox is worn
is oil level ok ? check it and transfere case
hope it helps let me know if u need more help
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
It is an pretty easy fix. Remove the right case cover and then loosen or remove the bolts that are compressing the clutch springs. Now slide the push rod 1/4" into the engine from the left side. Remount the lever assembly into the casing and put the casing back on. Now re-tighten the springs and put the right case cover back on. Re-fill with oil. All fixed.
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Posted on Jun 25, 2009
SOURCE: Model T clutch adjustment
Check to see that when you pull the lever back, that the parking brakes aren't grabbing. Approximately straight up, and down with the lever, is the neutral position, then pulling it back slightly towards the seat will set the parking brake.
Also, push the low pedal in very slowly, until you feel when you hit the low speed cam. You'll feel it. There will suddenly be more resistance at this point. That's where neutral is. The pedal should move down about 1 and 1/2 inches. The manual states halfway, this may be incorrect.
Jack up the car, (Use chock blocks under the tires, and work on a hard, level flat surface), check that the parking brakes are not setting when the lever is in the neutral position.
And yes, your deduction is correct about when the clutch oil is cold. The clutch used is a 'Wet Clutch'.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
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