I just installed a new top end kit and collent is leaking out the threads on the head bolts

If you leave that bolt out, it will surely mean an oil leak from the valve cover. The biggest thing to watch for is to make certain that shavings or debris do not end up in the engine. The part that you have circled looks like a studded bolt that holds the cam cap on along with sticking thru the valve cover to take a nut? If this is the case, just replace the bolt with a new one, tourque it down to the proper spec, and then install a new nut when installing the valve cover.

I found this for 3.7L head bolts. Follow the proper sequence, Start tightening from the middle and go outward. The four smaller bolts use sealer, if you don't they may leak. Also, use a straight edge along top bolt threads, all threads should be touching the straight edge, if not, get a new bolt.

You have 2 courses of action here,one get a new block ,( exspensive)or get a helicoil thread insalled in the striped hole ,drill according to spec. on package and install with supplied tool ,it all comes in a kit at napa or other parts stores ,

most likely the leak is the tank its self, dirt sets on top of the tank holding moister on the top of the tank causing little rust pin holes. did you strip the bolt head or the threads? if just the bolt head they make a strip out socket you can get them from your local snap-on tool truck or some sears stores keep them and all can order them, but if you striped the threads you will have to cut the bolt head off and i suggest you have a pro do it for obvious reasons.

Hello jakeslonewo,

I just did one of these today and the procedure is as follows.

If you are using new head bolts (Recommended) install the head and toque the bolts to 48 ft.lps.follow the torque sequence in the picture below . Then remove the bolts and and coat the threads lightly with motor oil. This is to ensure that the proper clamping load is achieved.

The next three steps are:

1. In the sequence shown below torque the head bolts to 22 ft.lps..
2. In the sequence shown below torque the head bolts to 37 ft.lps..
3. !n the sequence shown below turn each bolt an additional 90 degrees.


Regards,
netvan

The bolts should have thread lock on them when installing, and the torque is done in 2 steps. 33 ft lbs. and then 90 deg. after that on the second pass. 3.1L Engine CAUTION
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. LEFT SIDE (FRONT)

1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container.
4. Disconnect the top half of the air cleaner assembly, then remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe heat shield and crossover pipe.
6. Disconnect the spark plug wires from spark plugs and looms then route the wires out of the way.
7. Remove the rocker arm (valve) covers.
8. Remove upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold.
9. Remove the left side exhaust manifold.
10. Remove oil level indicator tube. NOTE: When removing the valve train components they must be kept in order for installation in the same locations they were removed from.
    
11. Remove rocker arms nut, rocker arms, balls and pushrods.
12. Unfasten the cylinder head bolts evenly, then remove the cylinder head from the engine compartment. Remove and discard the gasket. To install:
    
13. Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. Clean the threads on the cylinder head bolts and block threads.
14. Place the cylinder head gasket in position over the dowel pins on the cylinder block so the words THIS SIDE UP are showing.
15. Coat the bolt threads lightly with sealer, then install finger-tight.
16. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). With all the bolts tightened make a second pass tightening all the bolts an additional 90°.
17. Install the pushrods, rocker arms, balls and rocker arm nuts in their proper locations. Tighten the rocker arm nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
18. Install the lower intake manifold and upper intake plenum.
19. Install the rocker arm (valve) covers.
20. Install the oil level indicator tube. Insert the dipstick.
21. Connect the spark plug wires to spark plugs and looms.
22. Install the left side exhaust manifold.
23. Install the exhaust crossover pipe and heat shield.
24. Refill the cooling system.
25. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body air inlet duct.
26. Connect negative battery cable.
27. Start vehicle and verify that there are no leaks. Fig. 20: Cylinder head mounting and bolt tightening sequence - 3.1L engine
    

RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD (REAR) CAUTION
Fuel Injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove the top half of the air cleaner assembly and remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe heat shield and crossover pipe.
6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
7. Detach the Oxygen (O2) sensor connector.
8. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
9. Remove the right side exhaust manifold.
10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
11. Disconnect the spark plug wires from spark plugs and wire looms and route the wires out of the way.
12. Remove the rocker arm (valve) covers.
13. Remove upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold. NOTE: When removing the valve train components they must be kept in order for installation in the same locations they were removed from.
    
14. Remove rocker arms nut, rocker arms, balls and pushrods.
15. Unfasten the cylinder head bolts evenly, then remove the cylinder head from the engine compartment. Remove and discard the gasket. To Install:
    
16. Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. Clean the threads on the cylinder head bolts and block threads.
17. Place the cylinder head gasket in position over the dowel pins on the cylinder block so the words THIS SIDE UP showing.
18. Coat the bolt threads lightly with sealer, then install finger-tight.
19. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). With all the bolts tightened make a second pass tightening all the bolts an additional 90°.
20. Install the pushrods loosely retained with the rocker arm assemblies. Make sure all pushrods are in the correct locations. Coat the ends of the pushrods with prelube. The intake rods are marked yellow and are 5 3?4 inch long. The exhaust pushrods are marked green and 6 inches long. balls and rocker arm nuts. Tighten the rocker arm nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
21. Install the lower intake manifold and upper intake plenum.
22. Install the rocker arm (valve) covers.
23. Connect the spark plug wires to spark plugs and wire looms.
24. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
25. Install the exhaust manifold.
26. Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
27. Carefully lower the vehicle.
28. Connect the Oxygen (O2) sensor wiring.
29. Install the exhaust crossover pipe and heat shield.
30. Refill the cooling system.
31. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body air inlet duct.
32. Connect negative battery cable.
33. Start vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.

You buy a helicoil Kit. If it does not come with a drill bit, be sure that you have one the precise correct size. Drill out the hole being certain to capture all shavings. Thread helicoil on to the install tool, and screw into the hole until the top or last thread of the helicoil is about 1 /2 thread down the hole.
Then remove the tool. Now you have to break off the far end or install tab of the helicoil, do not thread bolt in to break off, it will not do so, and will shave the bolt threads, you need to break off and extract this little piece.

Then you are good to go.

if no water leaks can be found the only other place for it to leak is thru the head gasket.. If this car overheated then you may be looking at a engine replacment since not many mechanics will just do a head gasket. . The problem is this is an aluminum engine and when they overheat they tend to destroy head bolt threads that are in the block. Baumtools.com seels a kit to redrill all the block threads but the kit alone is $500 bucks.

Yes it should and also check the condition of the cylinder seal and the bumper. If either is damaged it could also affect the tool. Let me know and you can also go to Paslode.com and download a breakdown and get a parts kit for this along with installation instructions.

Hello, Many shower heads have similar problems. (Very frustrating as you now know) The problem is the threads at the end of the (cheap plastic) shower neck are not flat. They are tapered (has an edge) - so it does not seat flush with the base of the shower head. Actually cuts around the rubber washer causing a leak.

What to do about it?

File the end of the neck some to create a flat surface. However, go slow. Be sure you can still screw on the shower head. Add a flat rubber washer in the shower head and plumbers tape on neck threads too.

Or Purchase a new shower neck that has a better design. The neck should unscrew from the front. Check and make sure you have an access behind the shower just in case you need to access the plumbing.

I replace the shower neck myself if there is an access.

Rob