The exhaust pipe at the cylinder head on my 2009 DYNA glide glows bright red, is this a problem with exhaust not leaving the pipe fast enough? Also, I think I have an exhaust leak on the same pipe.
Re: The exhaust pipe at the cylinder head on my 2009 DYNA...
I have an XLCH1000 that had the same problem. I fitted finned exhaust clamps at the cylinder end and that cooled it down. Ride safe and loud pipes save lives.
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Inside the cylinders there is a fire when the engine is running and the exhaust gasses coming out heat up the metal. If this is a homemade dirt bike make the exhaust pipe routed away from you as much as possible and add a guard around the outside of the pipe.
Leaking exhaust valve would stop that cylinder from firing so it's exhaust would be cold...overly hot exhaust is more likely to be a lean cylinder most probably from an air leak on the intake side
Most likely a leaking gasket on the header pipe where it is bolted to the cylinder head, some after market exhausts use a more compact seal. In my experience you are better off with the original type conical seals as they allow for some misalignment that many exhausts have anyway.
Hi, Anonymous if your carburetor or exhaust is:
COUGHING is usually caused by an air leak in the intake system and will generally have the same telltale signs, a wet or damp build-up of oil/gas seepage at the intake manifold to the cylinder head or carburetor to intake manifold connection and in rare instances a worn throttle plate shaft and or seals.
POPPING on deceleration is usually caused by a lean fuel condition or an air leak in the exhaust system and is generally located where black carbon soot is seen as a flashing build-up from any joint connection. This condition can easily be remedied by removing and cleaning both joint pieces and reassembling with high temp silicone and torquing the exhaust clamp to the proper spec.
SPITTING is usually caused by a faulty accelerator pump and or nozzle, or the float bowl needle and seat leaking and overflowing through the main jet mixing well nozzle, or the air-fuel mixture screw is adjusted too lean.
BACKFIRING is usually caused by a sticky/tight intake valve or a timing issue, 180 degrees out or cam chain off 1or 2 teeth.
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No, it is more likely a bent exhaust valve or burned. The fuel flow position may indicate an additional issue with the carb, but the exhaust should not glow red like that- when it does it means there is unburned fuel and burning combustion gasses entering the pipe.
If the bike is hard to start, this can be why as well. Do a static compression test to see if the valves are leaking.
Sounds like you may have a head gasket leak. The oil journals for draining are on the far sides of the cylinders, so a leak there would cause oil to enter the cylinder. Is the engine a very high compression engine?
This is typical of all Harley's that I know of. rejetting is not going to help. Since the engine is a single carburetor engine, if you rejet to lean the rear cylinder out, you also lean the front cylinder as well. If it's running correctly now, rejetting to lean the rear will cause the front cylinder to become too lean and overheat.
Since you're complaining of "soot" in the rear pipe, I'm assuming that there is no soot in the front pipe. Most Harleys do tend to have a little difference in the mixture between the two cylinders but this sounds like a bit too much difference to me. The reason for the soot is that the rear cylinder is running richer than the front. A reason for that could be a vacuum leak to the front cylinder causing that mixture to be lean and diverting the fuel to the rear cylinder resulting in a rich mixture in that cylinder. Check for vacuum leaks at the intake to heads junction, at the vacuum port off the carb.
Another suggestion is that usually drag pipes have a "flat spot" in their performance at around 55 to 65 mph due to a lack of backpressure, I'd install a bolt in the rear of the pipes. On most drag pipes, there is a hole to bolt the baffles into the end of the pipe with. Take a 1/4" X 1 1/4" stainless steel bolt and insert it into the hole. Up inside the pipe, put three stainless steel nuts on the bolt. Do this to each pipe. It does not effect the sound of the pipes but does provide just enough backpressure to almost completely eliminate the flat spot.
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