1982 Honda GL 1100 Goldwing fuse box labels

SOURCE: Owners Manual for 1982 Honda 1100 Goldwing Interstate

From Amazon.com, you can order a Clymer or Haynes service/repair manual for your bike. Or
you can try e-bay, sometimes you can find factory manuals up for bid. You may even be able to
order one through a Honda dealer if is still available, but it may be pricey.

SOURCE: Owners Manual for 1982 Honda 1100 Goldwing Interstate

Here is link where you can download service manuals and owners manuals for free.

http://www.goldwingdocs.com/

SOURCE: my radio on my82 honda goldwing dont have sound

There are several possibilities. First, if the clock and cassette door are affected, it is a low voltage feed issue.. bad connectors, corroded terminals, etc. This voltage feed is from the 5 amp fuse in the very bottom of the relay box to the right of the main fuse block (i.e. not in the main fuse box).. clean check this fuse... If the low volume is FM only, it is internal to the radio.. in this case, another symptom is that the search/seek feature never locks on a station.. Typically this is a problem with a component on the board.. only place I know that works on them is Sierra Electronics in Troy Ohio, but others probably exist..

SOURCE: my radio on my82 honda goldwing dont have sound

(Better1969) is correct. I just bought a 1983 Aspencade and there was no sound to my speakers. The gentleman I bought the bike from supplied new speakers but I quickly ruled that out. There are 3 fuse links behind the left turn signal in the fairing. 1 was a 1 amp, 1 was a 2 amp and the blown fuse was a 5 amp. I didn't have a 5 amp so I put a 2 amp in its place. So far the sound is still working but my FM radio reception is very poor.

SOURCE: #14 fuse in a 1991 honda civic si keeps

That leaves only two probablities: 1) a possible short in the wiring to the alternator, or 2) the alternator itself, particularly the voltage regulator inside it. Voltage regulators can be changed, but virtually nobody does that. Since you have to take the alternator off to do it, most people simply replace the alternator as a unit.
I would take a good look at the wiring to see if there are any worn-bare places. I doubt that that's the problem, but it could be. There is also a fusible link (flat single piece of metal which melts under too high a charge) in SOME models of your car in the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the alternator (I doubt that your car has one since it probably would have blown rather than the fuse you indicated).
Next (you won't be delighted by this) change the alternator. It might look difficult, but if you take your time and you have or can borrow the appropriate wrenches, you can do it.
Here's how:
Detach the negative cable from the battery.
Mark and detach all of the connectors from the alternator (do not trust your memory).
Test the tension of the drive belt (you’ll have to get it roughly back to that tension when you change the alternator)
Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt (the one that goes through the oblong hole so you can tighten the alternator against the belt).
Loosen the pivot bolt (the only other bolt holding the alternator in place).
Detach the drive belt (push the alternator away from it, but do not take the belt off, unless you have a diagram indicating how it goes on).
Remove the adjusting bolt and the pivot bolt, then the alternator should be free.
Take the alternator with you when you go to get a replacement (some place like Autozone would be okay. Ask for a rebuilt alternator (they are cheaper and usually reliable).
Make sure the rebuilt alternator has the same connections as the old one. Look at it carefully.
Alternators usually don’t come with the pulley. Have them put your old pulley on the alternator you are buying.
Take it home, put it in, tension the belt to approximately where it was. Start the car.
I hope that this helps you.

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