How to renewe oil seals in final drive on r100

The first thing to do is determine if the oil is motor oil or gear oil. If the oil is leaking from the final drive end( gear oil ) it will have to be removed and inspected for bearing wear and have the seal replaced. If the oil is leaking from the motor and then running down the swingarm, the final drive and swingarm will have to be removed to replace the output shaft seal.
Thanks and I hope that this helps.
Steve

Did you check your front belt pulley? These pulleys are made of relatively soft cast iron as compared to the final drive gear. This is so that the easily replaced and relatively inexpensive front pulley wears before the difficult to replace and expensive final drive gear wears. The pulley will wear in the splined inner bore and will get loose on the final drive gear. Then transmission oil will run out of the pulley and down the inner primary. This is because of the lose of pressure on the "Quad" ring behind the pulley spacer. This may be your problem.

Another mistake a LOT of people make when replacing any seal is putting the seal up dry. On the inner primary seal, you want to put a bit sealer compound around the outer edge of the seal where it goes into the case. Although there are a lot new sealants out there, I still prefer good Permatex non-hardening. Once you get the seal in and straight, oil the inner seal surfaces and the bearing race. If you put the seal up dry, you start the engine, the mainshaft turns about 1000 rpm. This will burn up the delicate rubber lips on the seal almost instantly because of friction before the oil can get to the seal. You MUST lubricate the seal or it WILL burn up before you can blink an eye.

Also check the position of the inner primary bearing race. It must be 0.100" from the final drive gear. If it's way out of position, the seal may not be riding properly on it.

If you are in doubt about whether the transmission is leaking or the primary, refill the primary with a quart of automatic transmission fluid, the red stuff. It will work long enough for you to determine whether it's the transmission leaking or the primary leaking. If it's the transmission, check the front belt drive pulley for wear, You'll usually find that the large nut that holds it on is loose.

Good Luck
Steve

Open the tappet cover on the side of the final drive. Place a pan under the final drive and a rag over the wheel. Open the small bolt on the bottom of the final drive and let it drain. Do not lose the sealing washer. When empty put the lower plug back in and snug just enough so it will not leak or come out (do not over tighten!).Using 80/90 Hypoid gear oil (preferably synthetic it will run cooler, less friction) fill the final drive to the bottom of the tappet cover hole and put the tappet cover back on with o-ring . Again snug it up but do not over tighten , it only needs to seal in the oil and it is designed to break if you put it on to tight.

While it is not difficult to replace the seal, this usually indicates that the main bearing in the final drive has failed and pushed out/damaged the seal causing the leak.

Put bike on center stand and hold rear wheel with both hands and 12 and 6 O'clock positions. Try to move wheel by pushing towards the side of the bike in each direction. If wheel moves more than 1-2mm then you need to have final drive repaired. You can also remove drain plug at the bottom of the final drive and see if any metal particles drain out with the oil. Use a small drain pan to catch the oil.

Sorry, but likely not an easy seal replacement to fix this problem.

could be head or pump, but if no missfire or smoke from exhaust I suspect the pump seals, cheaper and easier to check and renew pump seals first then flush engine and renew oil and filter, then keep an eye on oil after that.

Maintenance must be carried out at 16 000 km (10 000 miles) or 12-monthly intervals from date of delivery, whichever comes first.

Renew engine oil and oil filter.
Renew drain plug sealing washer.
Renew drain plug assembly.
Visually check underbonnet/underbody
for any fluid leaks.
Inspect brake pads for wear (brake disc
condition on pad change).
Renew coolant.
Renew spark plugs (Normally Aspirated). 112 000 km (70 000 miles)
Renew spark plugs (leaded fuel markets only).
Check accessory drive belt tension wear indicator(s) – replace belt(s) if necessary.
Renew front accessory drive belt. 160 000 km (100 000 miles)
Renew rear accessory drive belt. 112 000 km (70 000 miles)
Check/top-up brake fluid level.
Check/top-up coolant level.
Check/top-up windshield washer reservoir.
Check/top-up power steering fluid level.
Check/top-up battery electrolyte level.

There are several things behind the inner primary case that could be leaking. There is a seal behind the inner primary where the transmission mainshaft goes into the primary. This seal sometimes starts to leak. Also, there are seals in the transmission in that area. The final drive gear seal is the big seal right behind the front final drive belt pulley. Somethimes this pulley wears on the splines of the final drive gear and it loses tension on the "quad seal" on the final drive gearshaft.

You'll nee some special tools to get to this area. You'll need sockets to fit the compensator sprocket nut and the clucth nut. You'll need an airwrench, a primary locking bar, and a torque wrench that will pull 150-165 ft. lbs. torque in forward direction, 68-80 ft. lbs. LEFT-HANDED on the clutch nut, a primary locking bar, a final drive sprocket locking device, a mainshaft nut removal tool, and some seal pullers and installers. Good Luck.

oil seal gone on the shaft cheap to buy but a bugger to get off as you have to strip the drive off andthen pop the old seal off with a screw driver then slide it of and next ge the new seal dap some oil inside then slide into place and rebuild also top up oil in engine

you have a damaged seal replace it and you should be just fine