I have just replaced my old indicators with some new led light., But they stay on when i click left or right on the switch, and my horn doesn't work either. Can you please help?

hi Stuart, have you check out the actually switch that you pressed to activate the indicators ?

Regards
Rob

your door switch got stuck open circuit.

flasher relay under steering column does not work,switched it with hazard and see if it works,then get the new one,make sure the light on turn signal in front or back is not burned out first

Red is your positive, black is negative, both brown wires are to the speaker, and the yellow and green wire are for any emergency strobe lights you may want to hook up to it. P.S. if you wire up the brown wires and siren doesn't work make sure volume is turned up and try it again if it doesn't work then switch the brown wires around. Both toggle switches on the far right is to only turn the lights on. not the siren. Make sure the siren nob is turned all the way left thats off. The rest of the are just siren modes. The toggle switch all the way to the left. Push down horn comes on release it then horn goes off. Push up siren comes on for like 7-10 seconds and the goes off. Horn and your microphone always override any siren that may be on.

OK, try to use a test light and connect the horn lead to ground to see if there is current, and to see if it sounds. If it does, then the wiring is fine to the horn itself. The relay may click, but are the contacts ok? Maybe swap out the relay for a new one.

three suspects 1) horn, 2) horn relay, 3) horn switch.

eliminate the first suspect by disconnecting the horn from its wires and jumping it right to the battery.
horn is usually found by looking around in front of and next to the radiator or below a head light. if it honks it is good, if not replace it. if it honks with jumper then go buy a new horn relay at a parts store. locate the old one by finding the fuse panels as described in your owners manual, the relays are in there too. unplug the old one and plug in the new one. if it works you win, if not you are looking at replacing the horn switch which is inside the steering wheel cosmetic cover. on pre-airbag cars this is usually not hard to get at, just a bitc* to find a new one for a car that old.

note some 90s GM products had a horn with a built in relay. this means you have to replace it with the exact same thing, not an off the shelf parts store horn. if the horn has 3 wires in connector it is that type.

This is the aftermarket alarm may be time for a new set but before you go that direction the alarm light may have shorted to a power and not affecting the alarm itself by the way does the alarm horn work and is it diconnected because if it is it realy activated. If it isnt and alarm horn works but the light always stays on the the alrm internal relays doesnt switch over. The fix most area will make you get a whole new one

From what you say I would first replace the horn relay, in the fuse block, if that does not do it I would suspect the horn switch in the steering wheel. If you must, you can disconnect the horn from its plug and jumper the battery right to it with an old extension cord. You will find the horn, looks like a small black fat in the center pancake with a horn opening, more or less under your left front headlight assembly and to the left of the radiator. Bare the ends of the extension cord, have a confederate hold one set to the battery terminals and you touch the other ends briefly to the connectors on the horn. If it toots then your horn is not the bad guy. Relay is a cheap and easy first step, horn switch in the steering wheel is not so easy.

Hello! The instigator of this problem appears to be the the rear cargo lamp; Official name is rear dome light. You'll need a multimeter set on the X10 ohm scale to shoot this trouble. Leave the rear dome light bulb out. There are two switches involved; #1 the rear dome light on/off. #2 the right hand front door switch.

Pull the horn fuse out, remove the rear dome light cover, drop the rear dome light down to access the wiring and close all doors on the vehicle. Connect one lead of the ohm meter to the white wire and the other to body ground. If you read any resistance one or both of the two switches (dome light switch or right hand front door switch) is remaining closed when all doors are closed. Next disconnect the black lead from the dome light switch and see if reading changes to zero. If it does this is indicating that the dome light switch is defective. If it does not, disconnect the right hand door switch and take another reading at the same location. If you still measure any resistance, the black wire of the rear dome light is shorted to ground, if not then the right hand door switch is the culprit.

The reason the right hand door switch and not the left hand door switch is involved is the fact that opening the left front door would turn on the front dome light as well as the rear light. If both dome lights are staying on with all doors closed I would then involve both door switches in this test procedure. If your vehicle is a four door model then disconnect one door switch at a time while performing this test procedure.

The horn fuse also supplies power to the rear dome light, and I suspect the two events are related.


Guru..............saailer


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

That symptom indicate the mainboard is damaged and should be replaced.