How do i remove clutch main shaft nut 1984 fxrt

I'm thinking there should be a mark besides the paint mark.. a devit or stamp.

This car has 2 different compressors 1 is SANDEN and other is CV171 but both require a specail puller to remove the outer clutch hub This puller screws on to the main shaft and has a threaded nut (outer side ) that screws into hub this removes hub then remove snap ring off compressor snout and install a spacer (specail tool) this covers the main shaft not to damage thrust bearing internal of compressor and a second puller can remove pulley. Most bearings are swedge fitted so the whole pulley needs to be replaced this comes in kit with a clutch coil also it is held on with a snap ring also. there are small washers (shims) that adjust the air gap on the pulley to hub set @ .025-.045

if it is like my FLH and I think it is ,,you pull off the outer primary the engine's sprocket the clutch pack remember that nut is left hand the nut that holds the clutch pack on to the main shaft remove both sprocket and clutch pack and chain as one unit there's also an adjuster shoe we move that alsoyou then can remove the rotor be careful its stuck on with magnetic force there's two holes which allow you to put small hooks in there pull it straight out don't let it snap back on the shaft or you could break the magnets then there's your stator think there's a couple of screws to hold it in and then just put it back together in reverse order good luck

The question is: How remove clutch in order to remove fan mounted on its engine-side face.

• Generally, the clutch drive half shaft must be uncoupled from coolant pump (impeller drive) half shaft using special wrench kit available as loaner from AutoZone (free with $79 approx deposit).
• Best done after shroud & radiator remove after coolant drained.

1. Uncouple coolant pump and fan clutch drive shaft(s) as follows:
   
   1. span across combo-pulley-sheaves-unit mounting bolt heads with large tool kit wrench, and
   2. span inline clutch coupling nut with small tool kit wrench. Then,
   3. turn small wrench (and coupling nut) CW while resisting with large wrench (CCW) to turn coupling nut until disengaged from coolant pump drive shaft.
2. Remove fan/clutch assembly.
3. Note direction of mounted fan hub and fan blades orientation to ensure proper re-assembly.
4. On rear of clutch assy, remove 4 bolts to disengage and remove fan.
5. Assemble new fan to clutch (or, preferably, new clutch and new fan) using new bolts and washers provided with fan.
6. Couple fan-clutch assy to coolant pump drive shaft as per opposite of uncoupling step 1, above. (Turn inline nut CCW to tighten...30 ft-lb.
7. Check that fan can be hand turned...CW.)
8. Rest shroud over and onto fan.
9. Replace radiator; remount shroud; reclamp hoses, and refill and air purge cooling system.

Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

Good Luck
steve

To replace the starter drive clutch on your 1985 model Big Twin, first disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the primary cover. Remove the starter drive shaft that has the clutch on it. Clamp the drive shaft in a vise equipped with soft jaws and remove the nut from the end of the shaft. The nut is the round piece on the end that has two flats for a wrench to fit. It has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the starter drive and replace it with a new unit. Replace the nut using Loctite 271 red and put the starter drive shaft back in. Make sure you purchase a good starter drive clutch. Avoid the Chinese units as they don't hold up very well. If you need a diagram, go to this site. http://www.bikebandit.com/1985-harley-davidson-fxst/o/m1502#sch209973

Good Luck
steve

The most common cause of delay or no reverse, other than the valve body, is a loose main-shaft nut. The symptoms will most likely occur when the vehicle is hot, and may also exhibit a soft or flared 2nd gear up-shift. A loose main-shaft nut can cause a Leak in the 2nd clutch circuit. When the nut is loose, the main-shaft walks back and forth In the middle of the case. This causes a small gap between the 1st clutch and the nut, which is where the leak in the 2nd clutch circuit appears. A new main-shaft nut should be replaced with every repair, since it has a factory thread locker. The nut can be accessed by removing the side cover, which means the unit does not have to be removed to replace it. The nut, and this is very important, should be torqued to 111 ft. lbs. The Saturn part number for the main-shaft nut is 21001680.

Another common no reverse condition is a faulty or defective vehicle speed sensor. The input from the VSS to the PCM should always read less than 5 mph. This allows the PCM to command high line pressure, which in turn will move the servo apply valve (1992-up models only) to an open position, thus opening up the passage to allow oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. If the VSS is defective (thus reading 5 mph or above on your scan tool), the PCM will command low line pressure, thus not feeding oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. In turn, the slider assembly will not move, causing a no reverse condition.

Another problem that occurs, especially when the unit has been removed, is an incorrectly adjusted pattern select switch, which we all commonly know as the manual lever positioning switch. If the pattern select switch is not adjusted properly, a no reverse condition, as well as loss of drive and/or erratic or harsh shifting can occur. To adjust the pattern select switch, put the selector in the D4 position. DO NOT start the vehicle. Connect an ohm meter to the switch. Rotate the switch until the ohm meter reads continuity. Once a reading is obtained, tighten the pattern select switch.

HI AM I CORRECT IN SAYING THIS BIKE HAS A DRUM BRAKE, AND A SIMPLE SPINDLE, SPACER AND NUT FITMENT, IN THE OLD DAYS HONDA USED A SPLINED WHEEL ATACHMENT TO THE SHAFT BELL HOUSING, WITH THE BIKE ON A STABLE FOOTING, REMOVE THE NUT, SPINDLE &, SPACERS, THIS SHOULD THEN GIVE ENOUGH SPACE TO REMOVE THE WHEEL FROM THE SHAFT HOUSING, A SLIGHT WOBBLE WHILE PULLING THE WHEEL OF THE DIFF IS NORMALY ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE WHEEL,MAKING SURE NOT TO PULL TO HARD AS TO AFFECT THE STABILITY OF THE MACHINE ON ITS STAND, USE OF A GOOD LUBRICATION IS RECOMENDED ON REASEMBLY OF THE SHAFT SPLINED GEAR, HOPE THIS HELPS

The most common cause of delay or no reverse, other than the valve body, is a loose main-shaft nut. The symptoms will most likely occur when the vehicle is hot, and may also exhibit a soft or flared 2nd gear up-shift. A loose main-shaft nut can cause a Leak in the 2nd clutch circuit. When the nut is loose, the main-shaft walks back and forth In the middle of the case. This causes a small gap between the 1st clutch and the nut, which is where the leak in the 2nd clutch circuit appears. A new main-shaft nut should be replaced with every repair, since it has a factory thread locker. The nut can be accessed by removing the side cover, which means the unit does not have to be removed to replace it. The nut, and this is very important, should be torqued to 111 ft. lbs. The Saturn part number for the main-shaft nut is 21001680.
Another common slow or no reverse condition is a faulty or defective vehicle speed sensor. The input from the VSS to the PCM should always read less than 5 mph. This allows the PCM to command high line pressure, which in turn will move the servo apply valve (1992-up models only) to an open position, thus opening up the passage to allow oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. If the VSS is defective (thus reading 5 mph or above on your scan tool), the PCM will command low line pressure, thus not feeding oil to the forward/reverse servo piston. In turn, the slider assembly will not move, causing a no reverse condition.

if the "hold-in" coil for the compressor shaft is good, take a "butterfly" impact wrench (due to space limitations), then remove shaft nut and very carefully put nut on shaft loose and rap the end of the shaft with light forward pressure applied to clutch, it sometimes works this way, otherwise you'll need to rent an A/C clutch removal tool at a parts store, but remember be very careful how hard you rap shaft and do it with something like hard plastic/wood